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02-10-2012
  211
trendsetter
 
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What some people here tend to forget is that Alber Elbaz designed Rive Gauche before Gucci bought it and he did an absolutely wonderful job back then.

Other than that this collection just seems lackluster, we all know that Hedi has the abilities to do something extraordinary but instead he chose to do western which just seems a bit off. And all of this is so terribly overhyped that there was basically no other possibility than failing.

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02-10-2012
  212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chanelcouture09 View Post
^Not at all surprised by the last tweet... the man is just...
me either, sometimes i think the most important thing is to keep pierre happy, irregardless of the end result and tom has shared what happens when you don't keep him happy.

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02-10-2012
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This also means Hedi will shoot all the campaigns, I'm sure. Get ready Kate Moss

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02-10-2012
  214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chanelcouture09 View Post
^Not at all surprised by the last tweet... the man is just...
in case people didn't realize it was all for pierre



jessicamichault instagram


The more i look at this collection the more i dislike it. In HQ some of the pieces look very good, but overall it's bugging me. Not so much cause im not a big fan of hobo-chic, but mostly cause i want to see a strong, modern woman on a runway. what i'm seeing here is a poser that thinks that being rock'n'roll means wearing what kate moss or stevie nicks would wear. More than an indipendent woman, i see a groupie walking down this runway. Which is why this will sell a lot, but it's really not what i'm interested in.

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02-10-2012
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These days. money talks. So if Hedi can make SL some money, get some hype and make the young set wants to wear SL then in the future he can be more experimental. I think right now, he's just being familiar. Anyways, what I am more interested in is how his designs will show up in retail. Runway pieces are runways pieces..and everything is coordinated to fit the show. But in the shop things will be different so I really want to see that.

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02-10-2012
  216
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Cathy Speaks:

Quote:
Saint Laurent: Back at the Chateau Marmont
By CATHY HORYN
The house that Yves Saint Laurent founded with Pierre Berge has a new, punchier name and a new designer — Hedi Slimane — but in many ways it’s the same old French label.

On Monday night, after much buildup and intrigue (a YSL tradition) Mr. Slimane presented his first women’s collection for Saint Laurent. Among the roughly 400 guests at the Grand Palais some would have recognized the visual effects from Mr. Slimane’s shows for Dior Homme, where he worked from 2000 to 2007. The space was darkened, and there was a blaze of concert-style lighting and loud music. Before Mr. Slimane got to Dior, he designed menswear for YSL, where he built a reputation for dynamic, fast-paced shows with spindly youths, and for being connected to the art and music scenes in Berlin and London. Lately, Mr. Slimane, who is also a photographer, has been living in Los Angeles.

Mr. Slimane’s Dior shows always had a superstar quality, in part because so many music and film stars were packed into his front row. Karl Lagerfeld was also part of the fabric of that era — literally, in a slim-fitting Dior suit — and he sat near Bernard Arnault, the chairman of LVMH. Mr. Lagerfeld did not attend Mr. Slimane’s comeback. He was in the Chanel studio doing fittings.

A similar air of exclusivity — or exclusion — pervaded Monday night’s event. The front row was filled with VIPs, including Mr. Berge, to whom Mr. Slimane dedicated the collection (the seat cards said so), and Betty Catroux, a friend and muse of Mr. Saint Laurent’s. There was also a smattering of star photographers, editors and models, like Kate Moss. But many front-row editors, to their disgruntlement, were given second- and third-row seats, and some, including an editor from Le Monde, had to stand. While a lot of journalists don’t really care where they sit, the lack of professional courtesy smacked of ignorance or arrogance.

I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons’s template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line.

Anyway, Mr. Slimane insisted that he was the first to show the skinny suit. It was a silly debate. Who cares? As time went on, he also felt (as best as I can tell) that I gave preference to Mr. Simons in my coverage of the men’s shows. If I gave him attention, it was because his work and my reporting into the key early part of his
career merited it. I haven’t spoken to Mr. Slimane in five years.

When I raised the invitation matter with his boss, Francois-Henri Pinault, the chief executive of PPR, which owns Saint Laurent, Mr. Pinault expressed dismay. “That’s ridiculous,” he said. “Journalists should be invited to shows.” Quite so. But I suspected that Mr. Pinault was in a jam. Having given Mr. Slimane much authority to
remake Saint Laurent, he could scarcely take it away from him.

My opinion, then, of his first collection is based on digital images, which anyone can see. Mr. Slimane picked up some big, early themes of the house — the tuxedo (now tightened up, with the jacket shrunken like a busboy’s, a style he did at Dior), the fringed suede, the caftans, floppy hats and other bohemian trappings that
evoke for many people the late ’60s and early ’70s.

And that was the problem: the collection was a nice but frozen vision of a bohemian chick at the Chateau Marmont. Or in St. Tropez. Mr. Slimane’s clothes lacked a new fashion spirit. Indeed, it was as though he refused to interpret the YSL style, beyond updating proportions. Even the colors seemed flat, suppressed. Of course, in the past two decades, a host of designers and vintage-minded stylists have successfully traded on the look.

Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years. If so, that might be an interesting perspective. But there wasn’t something new to learn here. Also, the self-important air of Saint Laurent’s media relations — the calls informing reporters that Mr. Slimane wouldn’t be taking questions backstage — is out of touch. Meanwhile, its competitors— Balenciaga, Dior, Givenchy, Celine, Lanvin — are having a terrific season.
once again I have to say... ouch.

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Last edited by mistress_f; 02-10-2012 at 08:51 AM.
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02-10-2012
  217
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I must say, Cathy sound a like too personal and not very professional. And being a Raf Simons fan, I am not surprise she came up with that article. No surprise there!

Overall, yes we can all agree this is nothing new but the fact that he respect the code of YSL is a good start for development. Let's see a few more season before we write him off!

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02-10-2012
  218
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Go Cathy, you say the point. And, I hope the one who tweets on YSL Official Twitter account could be less childish, you don't have to write in ALL CAPS, you don't have overstate "oh this is HANDMADE", come on, you are doing luxury, not high street.


Last edited by balmain1914; 02-10-2012 at 09:24 AM.
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02-10-2012
  219
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No one is beyond criticism. I'm glad she spoke her mind. This is what the fashion industry desperately needs: fewer sycophants, more integrity.

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02-10-2012
  220
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Cathy made it personal, but she's only saying what most of us have said before even seeing this collection: enough with the gimmicky and pretentious BS, Slimane.

And regarding the actual collection, she's spot on.

The jab at the end was
Quote:
Meanwhile, its competitors— Balenciaga, Dior, Givenchy, Celine, Lanvin — are having a terrific season.
Pretty sure that puts her on the blacklist, foreverrrrrr.

But, it's true.

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02-10-2012
  221
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To me, the biggest problem with this collection, is that it's the wrong kind of sexy for the YSL (or SL)-woman. It's sloppy, too boho (for the 2010s), and it seems to me, like it's made for Paris Hilton, rather than their pre-Slimane customer. And their new logo reminds me of Polo Sport's logo (which is not a compliment). Super disappointed (but never really had any expectations for Hedi, he never seemed like the right choice to me).

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02-10-2012
  222
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Yes its a horrible collection, even more so for someones debut, but Horyn is once again petty, and personal. I respect her opinion, because the woman knows what she is talking about, but these kind of jabs lately, are making her look bad.


For comparison Armstrong, showed much more constructive criticism in her review.

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02-10-2012
  223
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As someone who hates minimalist/sleek/modern looks and is fascinated with the 60s/70s, I absolutely love this, although it's too repetitive.

I would wear almost anything from this collection.


On the other hand, it's useless and unimaginative. Because I could totally find these clothes in vintage shops and copy Anita, Brigitte, Marianne, etc..., I don't need any Hedi Slimane for this ! I love the clothes but he doesn't make any new contribution.

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02-10-2012
  224
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Cathy doesn't sound upset or personal to me, more like she's just not into feeding bulls*it to her readers like most "journalists" out there do. Glad she set the record straight.. one of the few literal statements of honesty that have come out of this.

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02-10-2012
  225
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Other people expressed similar opinions in way more elusive terms but im gonna say it anyway; underwhelming and dated.

Much more interesting for me however; I bet Marc is pissed since she's the queen of antics and she has just been declassed by the scale of Hedi's prima Donna BS. Hissyfit in the LV headquarters again Im sure.

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Last edited by Vitamine W; 02-10-2012 at 02:08 PM.
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