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02-10-2012
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Izreal's Avatar
 
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all these editors ranting away at their personal ego issues, front row status, hype mania etc etc is quite bemusing i find, and definitely lacks objectivity when judging the collection. fwiw, i think it's a good start..it's what i expected, early SL revisited by Hedi's aesthetic with a great attention to detail. Some people seem to forget that he's been outside of fashion for 5 years, that this is his first ever women's collection and presentation for YSL nonetheless.. give the guy a break, it's a solid effort.. but of course as usual haters gonna hate..

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02-10-2012
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^^^Unlike Marc, I think Hedi is actually very talented.

Anyway, I am shocked their were no jeans...

Hedi's diva attitude seems so out of character for him. Then again, I've only ever been interested in his designs-- not his personality, so I admit I know really nothing about him, or his behavior. I would think that for a 40-plus year-old man who seems to be obsessed with the very young alternative rock scene, he would be less diva-ish, less petty, and more easygoing in his attitude towards journalists.

As for this collection: It would work so much better having a tighter edit-- like, get rid of all the Zoe-boho dresses. The dresses are the weak link in this collection; there are too many and the design is old news. If the collection were only of the pantsuits and their accompanying capelettes and leather and suede jackets, that would have made one impressive showing. I love the black & white palette of all those pantsuits, accented by flashes of champagne, amber and dusty-blues. That jewel-encrusted cadet jacket is so beautiful and fitting amongst all the black pantsuits and black lace. And the masculine bangles are the perfect balance of richness and boldness. As someone mentioned upthread, this collection is very Dior Homme A/W 2005. Why not present it as the long-lost sister collection to that Velvet Goldmine collection? We all knew Hedi was going to do black skinny suitings, so why not give the most severe statement by rejecting dresses?

The collection didn't blow me away-- at best, I felt a cool breeze, and I think that's what'll work for the new SL branding, and for his clientele of rich girls who want that couture-y, luxurious but indie rock image.

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02-10-2012
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I rewatched the pictures again and I still find that collection irrelevant. There is nothing iconic in this collection and not a particular take on fashion. No research on the cut or on fabrics and even less on shoes....

This is STYLING. Everyone in a H&M store can bring this collection in one hour and I am not joking. Of course the fabrics and finishings will be different, but the spirit will be the same...

I am also disappointed to hear that silly attitude. Changing the name of the house, changing the location of the studio, blacklisting journalists, not accepting questions backstage...is he Mariah Carey ?

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02-10-2012
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@vitamin: actually you're wrong.. sure he's done the odd editorial but he hasn't been designing since he left DH in winter 2007.. don't believe the hype

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02-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuiceMajor View Post
I must say, Cathy sound a like too personal and not very professional. And being a Raf Simons fan, I am not surprise she came up with that article. No surprise there!

Overall, yes we can all agree this is nothing new but the fact that he respect the code of YSL is a good start for development. Let's see a few more season before we write him off!
Yes, it would perhaps have been more tactful not to write a review on this collection, at least not with mentioning their qualms; it just sounds bitter when she critisizes it... but saying that, I agree with her entirely.

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02-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MulletProof View Post
Cathy doesn't sound upset or personal to me, more like she's just not into feeding bulls*it to her readers like most "journalists" out there do. Glad she set the record straight.. one of the few literal statements of honesty that have come out of this.
I completely agree, and quite frankly even if she did come off as insulted, I'd say she has every right to be. After all she is the NYTimes' leading fashion writer, so there's no real reason why she shouldn't have been there.

And her criticisms of this collection are, in my opinion, entirely spot on.

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02-10-2012
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^ The above attack on Cathy Horyn strikes me as projection. Takes one to know one stylie.

As for the collection I've been on the fence and I think I've now grasped why. The pantsuit looks I find to be excellent but anything which is a dress or a skirt, the proportions are off. Leaving me with the thought that, for the time being at least, Hedi can cut a wicked suit whether it be for a man or a woman but he's not yet adept across the full gamut of womenswear. Unsurprisingly perhaps.

In terms of positioning, fusion of YSL and Hedi aesthetics, the offering is pretty much what one would expect. The second and subsequent seasons will be the litmus test because is Mr Slimane capable of anything else? One suspects perhaps not and he can't repeat this work ad nauseum. Is there anything else in his locker?

As is all too common within fashion, those who lack substance are those who engage in defensive divaish behaviour, harbouring grudges and self-aggrandisement. They can't quite believe they are getting away with it. Which he alleges of Horyn. Projection can be very revealing. Bite your tongue sir, discretion being the better part of valour. Because you're getting away with it this season but what about next season? One wonders if there's any real ability as a designer. Will he even be able to get away with it in the way Marc Jacobs does?

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02-10-2012
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OMG someone here is butthurt. I can't even respond to this. Cathy might have been a bit uprofessional there, but as a writer she's entitled to speak her mind. Mind you, so is Hedi, but this is the most childish thing i've ever seen a designer do, at least in terms of 'official' statements. i can't. lol.

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02-10-2012
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^^Tentacl, that last alinea and especially that last sentence should be stitched in the finest silk on a pillow Cathy can rest her head on.

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02-10-2012
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this is even more embarrassing than the oscar de la renta ad in wwd

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02-10-2012
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Meh, don't particularly care for this.

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02-10-2012
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Cathy called him out on his bull and now he's crying like a babe. Hilarious.

It's sad how quickly the house has been turned into the most unbecoming in Paris.

And whoever thought there was no rivalry with Raf Simons, well, better tell that to Mr. Slimane!


Last edited by Mutterlein; 02-10-2012 at 04:19 PM.
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02-10-2012
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WOW. Never expected that kind of childish reaction. If I were in Cathy's position and I was treated in a similar way, you bet I'd be bitter. But what is this response? Again, wow.

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02-10-2012
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Very shocked by his response and after looking at the collection again, it's nice, but I am hoping for a better followup.

On the plus side, his last sentence to check out the new site made me do it and I love that we can see all the new products. Dior Homme 2.0 perhaps, but I am in love.

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02-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vitamine W View Post
^^Tentacl, that last alinea and especially that last sentence should be stitched in the finest silk on a pillow Cathy can rest her head on.
Thanks Vitamine but I'm sure Cathy needs nothing from me pillows or otherwise. It does raise the interesting question, which I'm sure she must consider, of whether she responds further. Rise above has a lot going for it. But so also does don't take that lying down.

Two points. Whether Hedi be designer, stylist, photographer or charlatan; writer, seemingly, he is not. In any protracted war of words there can only be one winner. So I say seconds out, round two.

There's also a sort of faustian pact element. An extended spat would serve to raise both their profiles further and potentially beyond the fashion press into the general press. Unfortunately people do love a fight. Has Slimane already brought the industry into disrepute. He might have.

I say Horyn is honour bound to reply and that may well be the last word. If the Pinault's have any nous they'll carpet Hedi and shut him up. Though perhaps the old adage that there's no such thing as bad publicity, only publicity, rings true.

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