Saint Laurent S/S 2013 Paris - Page 21

haydn · 05-10-2012

Based on what I've been reading, this has already been picked up by Barney's, neimans, saks, bergdorfs and Nordstrom in the US. I have a strong feeling ysl will have a much wider reach with the rtw than they have had in a long time! Even though many here are mourning Pilati, more people will end up wearing Saint Laurent because of the changes Heidi made. Love him or hate him, there hasn't been this much buzz (good or bad) around a collection for many seasons.

thirdlooks · 05-10-2012

I was really disappointed by this collection and it was made worse by Hedi and Saint Laurent overreacting to the critics. Hedi will get my patience but I have to say if the quality and innovation of future collections don't improve this re-branding decision will not bode over well. Knowing the fashion industry though I think once this starts showing up on every celeb its still gonna sell crazy well despite not being too innovative.

disco54 · 05-10-2012

As much as I find this collection underwhelming, because of its dark boho SoCal vibe , it will be with quite popular with girls because of its mass appeal, I am talking specifically about the gowns and maxis presented. The tailoring and pants, I am sorry to say can easily be put together at your local Forever 21, some leather legging or skinny pant with a blazer,a peep toe heel and throw on a floppy hat and VOILA http://canada.forever21.com/images/e...0120924-06.jpg
Mr.Slimane forgot two important things a designer has to do 1. EVOLVE 2. A real designer challenges himself by exploring ideas he might not like to begin with. I honestly do not see Hedi lasting 2-3 seasons, he is too rigid in his aesthetic and he is a very egotistical man.

KKnardi · 05-10-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by disco54

As much as I find this collection underwhelming, because of its dark boho SoCal vibe , it will be with quite popular with girls because of its mass appeal, I am talking specifically about the gowns and maxis presented. The tailoring and pants, I am sorry to say can easily be put together at your local Forever 21, some leather legging or skinny pant with a blazer,a peep toe heel and throw on a floppy hat and VOILA http://canada.forever21.com/images/e...0120924-06.jpg
Mr.Slimane forgot two important things a designer has to do 1. EVOLVE 2. A real designer challenges himself by exploring ideas he might not like to begin with. I honestly do not see Hedi lasting 2-3 seasons, he is too rigid in his aesthetic and he is a very egotistical man.

2-3 seasons? woman watch'a talkin' abu'? I think it's more like 5-10 years...

disco54 · 07-10-2012

Well after looking it over and over I do like a few gowns and maxis BUT everything else just reminded me of asphalt. The website has this melancholic indie rock vibe with 95% of the items in black. I am sure he does have fans of his work, but considering the look he has popularized has been done to death in mainstream fashion a lot of it seemed stale. All I got from the website and visuals was the indie rock kids' version of an uber expensive Abercrombie and Fitch.

blackcherrified · 07-10-2012

Has anyone noticed that no accessories blog has written anything on these items after they appear on the website...?

Izreal · 07-10-2012

^ i don't know about accessory blogs but all the major fashion blogs i've visited have done extensive features using the web pics. as far as basing judgements on the website offering, let me explain something: luxury houses only put around 1/10th of the actual collection online, usually the safest items in neutral colors.. this is the global internet marketing strategy which is a lot different then boutiques which are usually more edgy but also carry diverse selections depending on the local markets. the best thing here is to stay focused on the runway collection imo & not the webshop / ad campaigns (which there is a separate thread for)

lemeray · 07-10-2012

With so much talk about the collection, think it's time we see pictures again...

From justinoshea instagram

lemeray · 07-10-2012

justinoshea instagram

VogueDisciple93 · 07-10-2012

The first bag (in post #308) reminds me of a Birkin...

lowfive1715 · 08-10-2012

Has anyone visited YSL.COM? It's quite dismal being there is nothing of Fall '12. The RTW is quite laughable and audaciously overpriced. Plus the accessories are atrocious. Am I alone in this feeling of incomprehension?

I won't say that I miss Pilati because then I would be outwardly lying. Couldn't Pinault have kept the search going for a little bit longer? How I dream of Ford's return, oh well that's wishful thinking. But seriously, is this where this storied house is headed?

Btw, can someone convince Slimane to leave L.A. and return to Paris.

disco54 · 08-10-2012

Honestly the skinny suiting and accessories are very boirng, the shoes, the less said the better.

tricotineacetat · 08-10-2012

Once it's stripped off the busy layering and overt use of accessories as well as all the 'Vintage Americana'-inspired Suede fringing, crochet etc., there is still the razor-sharp, rigorous Slimane-essence to be found.

Yes, this collection is super-strict, black as can be and not exactly cheerful and resort-like as a lot of other label's Spring/Summer offerings, much closer to the erotism of Helmut Newton's 'Filme Noire' Saint Laurent imagery - It also may lack the lightness in construction that may be fundamental for a commercial success on warmer climates such as the Near East, South America etc. - This may prove the biggest problem for the successful selling of Saint Laurent's RTW, besides the rail-thin, androgynous fitting of the clothes (comparisons to Raf Simon's Jil Sander or Helmut Lang are likely).

The construction of the jackets, as with Dior Homme, is completely artisanal, comparable to that found in men's suiting by Brioni or Kiton. Those standards are unseen in women's RTW, definitely NOT comparable to Pilati's work for YSL. This is for a woman that appreciates the structure, strictness and precision of a men's suit, and that commands a certain eye for the savoir-faire. In that sense, Slimane succeeded in giving Saint Laurent back a certain 'way of making' that was normally reserved only for couture.

Izreal · 08-10-2012

^ i completely agree (btw i remember your always insightful comments back in the DH threads

) i find it quite impressive how Hedi has successfully ported his rigueur and silhouettes not only to YSL but to womenswear. those fit pics just ooze Slimane savoir faire while still being connected to the early Saint Laurent esprit..

tricotineacetat · 08-10-2012

All of the 'flou' part in the collection needs a bit further development, I don't think he got it exactly right at this part, most of the efforts to try a more classically 'feminine' hand so far seem like a show-statement only - I am highly doubting that long bias-cut caftan robes and red carpet dresses are key to a lot of women's needs, he will eventually need to come up with a more convincing formula than ruffles and poet sleeves galore or the ultra-spare, overpriced tunic dresses with shoulder pads that the YSL website presently offers - those pieces show his apprentice-status as a dressmaker, naturally so as he has so far never tried his hand on 'proper' womenswear (similar to Raf Simons' earliest attempts at Jil Sander).

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05-10-2012	301
haydn rising star Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Toronto, Canada Gender: homme Posts: 190	Based on what I've been reading, this has already been picked up by Barney's, neimans, saks, bergdorfs and Nordstrom in the US. I have a strong feeling ysl will have a much wider reach with the rtw than they have had in a long time! Even though many here are mourning Pilati, more people will end up wearing Saint Laurent because of the changes Heidi made. Love him or hate him, there hasn't been this much buzz (good or bad) around a collection for many seasons. __________________ "The only real elegance is in the mind; if you've got that, the rest really comes from it." Diana Vreeland

07-10-2012	307
Izreal front row Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Paris Gender: homme Posts: 227	^ i don't know about accessory blogs but all the major fashion blogs i've visited have done extensive features using the web pics. as far as basing judgements on the website offering, let me explain something: luxury houses only put around 1/10th of the actual collection online, usually the safest items in neutral colors.. this is the global internet marketing strategy which is a lot different then boutiques which are usually more edgy but also carry diverse selections depending on the local markets. the best thing here is to stay focused on the runway collection imo & not the webshop / ad campaigns (which there is a separate thread for) Last edited by Izreal; 07-10-2012 at 04:17 PM.

08-10-2012	313
tricotineacetat tfs star Join Date: Apr 2005 Gender: homme Posts: 1,848	Once it's stripped off the busy layering and overt use of accessories as well as all the 'Vintage Americana'-inspired Suede fringing, crochet etc., there is still the razor-sharp, rigorous Slimane-essence to be found. Yes, this collection is super-strict, black as can be and not exactly cheerful and resort-like as a lot of other label's Spring/Summer offerings, much closer to the erotism of Helmut Newton's 'Filme Noire' Saint Laurent imagery - It also may lack the lightness in construction that may be fundamental for a commercial success on warmer climates such as the Near East, South America etc. - This may prove the biggest problem for the successful selling of Saint Laurent's RTW, besides the rail-thin, androgynous fitting of the clothes (comparisons to Raf Simon's Jil Sander or Helmut Lang are likely). The construction of the jackets, as with Dior Homme, is completely artisanal, comparable to that found in men's suiting by Brioni or Kiton. Those standards are unseen in women's RTW, definitely NOT comparable to Pilati's work for YSL. This is for a woman that appreciates the structure, strictness and precision of a men's suit, and that commands a certain eye for the savoir-faire. In that sense, Slimane succeeded in giving Saint Laurent back a certain 'way of making' that was normally reserved only for couture. Last edited by tricotineacetat; 08-10-2012 at 06:37 AM.

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05-10-2012	302
thirdlooks windowshopping Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: United States Gender: homme Posts: 3	I was really disappointed by this collection and it was made worse by Hedi and Saint Laurent overreacting to the critics. Hedi will get my patience but I have to say if the quality and innovation of future collections don't improve this re-branding decision will not bode over well. Knowing the fashion industry though I think once this starts showing up on every celeb its still gonna sell crazy well despite not being too innovative.

05-10-2012	303
disco54 V.I.P. Join Date: Apr 2006 Gender: femme Posts: 3,619	As much as I find this collection underwhelming, because of its dark boho SoCal vibe , it will be with quite popular with girls because of its mass appeal, I am talking specifically about the gowns and maxis presented. The tailoring and pants, I am sorry to say can easily be put together at your local Forever 21, some leather legging or skinny pant with a blazer,a peep toe heel and throw on a floppy hat and VOILA http://canada.forever21.com/images/e...0120924-06.jpg Mr.Slimane forgot two important things a designer has to do 1. EVOLVE 2. A real designer challenges himself by exploring ideas he might not like to begin with. I honestly do not see Hedi lasting 2-3 seasons, he is too rigid in his aesthetic and he is a very egotistical man.

07-10-2012	305
disco54 V.I.P. Join Date: Apr 2006 Gender: femme Posts: 3,619	Well after looking it over and over I do like a few gowns and maxis BUT everything else just reminded me of asphalt. The website has this melancholic indie rock vibe with 95% of the items in black. I am sure he does have fans of his work, but considering the look he has popularized has been done to death in mainstream fashion a lot of it seemed stale. All I got from the website and visuals was the indie rock kids' version of an uber expensive Abercrombie and Fitch.

07-10-2012	306
blackcherrified scenester Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Singapore Gender: homme Posts: 63	Has anyone noticed that no accessories blog has written anything on these items after they appear on the website...?

07-10-2012	308
lemeray V.I.P. Join Date: Oct 2005 Gender: femme Posts: 13,405	With so much talk about the collection, think it's time we see pictures again... From justinoshea instagram

07-10-2012	309
lemeray V.I.P. Join Date: Oct 2005 Gender: femme Posts: 13,405	justinoshea instagram

07-10-2012	310
VogueDisciple93 backstage pass Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: New York Gender: homme Posts: 589	The first bag (in post #308) reminds me of a Birkin...

08-10-2012	311
lowfive1715 windowshopping Join Date: Dec 2005 Gender: homme Posts: 10	Has anyone visited YSL.COM? It's quite dismal being there is nothing of Fall '12. The RTW is quite laughable and audaciously overpriced. Plus the accessories are atrocious. Am I alone in this feeling of incomprehension? I won't say that I miss Pilati because then I would be outwardly lying. Couldn't Pinault have kept the search going for a little bit longer? How I dream of Ford's return, oh well that's wishful thinking. But seriously, is this where this storied house is headed? Btw, can someone convince Slimane to leave L.A. and return to Paris.

08-10-2012	312
disco54 V.I.P. Join Date: Apr 2006 Gender: femme Posts: 3,619	Honestly the skinny suiting and accessories are very boirng, the shoes, the less said the better.

08-10-2012	314
Izreal front row Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Paris Gender: homme Posts: 227	^ i completely agree (btw i remember your always insightful comments back in the DH threads ) i find it quite impressive how Hedi has successfully ported his rigueur and silhouettes not only to YSL but to womenswear. those fit pics just ooze Slimane savoir faire while still being connected to the early Saint Laurent esprit..

08-10-2012	315
tricotineacetat tfs star Join Date: Apr 2005 Gender: homme Posts: 1,848	All of the 'flou' part in the collection needs a bit further development, I don't think he got it exactly right at this part, most of the efforts to try a more classically 'feminine' hand so far seem like a show-statement only - I am highly doubting that long bias-cut caftan robes and red carpet dresses are key to a lot of women's needs, he will eventually need to come up with a more convincing formula than ruffles and poet sleeves galore or the ultra-spare, overpriced tunic dresses with shoulder pads that the YSL website presently offers - those pieces show his apprentice-status as a dressmaker, naturally so as he has so far never tried his hand on 'proper' womenswear (similar to Raf Simons' earliest attempts at Jil Sander).