Named “Urban Poetry,” Sonia by Sonia Rykiel’s resort collection offered city ease with a subversive edge. French classics such as the trench coat and the knit skirt-set got reworked in, respectively, an aggressive, leopard-print nylon and deconstructed ruffles.
Pops of cherry red invigorated the mostly pastel palette, as did the line’s beloved kitschy sweaters, this season bedecked with phrases such as “Are You Dreaming?” Basic pants and blouses were done in crinkled cotton and a daisy-printed silk, while a range of sweats were accented with cozy chenille.
Sonia Rykiel made news last week with the announcement of Julie de Libran as the brand's new artistic director. While the Louis Vuitton alum won't be directly overseeing Sonia by Sonia Rykiel (which will remain in the hands of its studio team), the little sister line's more sophisticated Resort outing suggests that positive changes are afoot on every level at the house.
The new lineup felt decidedly grown-up, while maintaining its gamine charm and touch of irreverence. The season's "urban poetry" theme was underscored by the corresponding lookbook, which was shot on Paris' Left Bank and captured the raw yet romantic vibe of the collection. Sweet daisies were featured on easy silk button-ups and feminine frocks. Those pretty patterned pieces were mixed up with comparatively structured suiting separates in a range of bold hues, as well as the label's signature witty knits. Highlights included a fine-gauge, color-blocked dress that had a two-in-one trompe l'oeil effect; cropped sweaters intarsia'd with catchy phrases; and striped "fanny wraps" meant to be tied around the waist. Relaxed cardigans belted insouciantly over bare skin—or "nue sous mon pull," as Lola Rykiel described it—revealed the sensual side of the diffusion line. Sparkly flatforms finished off the look. The fun footwear exemplified how even if the Sonia by Sonia girl is going for a more elevated look now, she will never take herself too seriously.