“This collection is definitely a precursor to what you will be seeing for fall,” said Thom Browne. Stripped of the conceptual fare he favors for the traditional seasons, pre-fall showcased wearable clothes with an extraordinary attention to detail. Browne began with an eye on jackets, which ranged from boyish cropped styles that layered beautifully over his signature drop-collar blouses and pencil skirts, to more unstructured sack shapes that offered a nice sense of ease among the ladylike wares. Fabrics played a key role: men’s tie fabrics were cut and spliced for a detailed seamed dress, and whimsical mixes of Prince of Wales checks, herringbone, houndstooth and tweed invigorated traditional top coats and slim trousers.
Thom Browne is still best known as a menswear designer, and the fundamentals of menswear are channeled through his clothes for women as well. Any lady on the hunt for the perfect, tailored, gray flannel blazer will have no trouble finding it here. But what was notable in Browne's womenswear collection this season was its outright femininity: Everywhere you looked, pretty much, there were curves. Though Browne's wasp-waist silhouettes were a far sight more traditional than the ones he showed last season, he went at them with verve, putting a broad full skirt on a dress made from panels of classic necktie jacquard, and cutting a cascade of draped ruffles in another skirt of gray wool. Sharp shoulders and jackets tailored corset-tight further articulated the shape. The collection's strongest and most enduring looks, however, were much more relaxed. Browne nailed pre-fall's oversize coat trend, producing a few versions of mannish overcoats that were big without being sloppy or surreal. Indeed, after his madcap Spring '13 outing, this was a circumspect affair, with a muted palette of neutrals, and most of the action happening close up, in intriguing materials such as quilted ripstop nylon and tweed woven through with rubber yarn.
This is hit or miss for me. Love the first look and this one a lot. I agree about Thom Browne being great with volumes. I don't like the prints that much. The unusual and excessive material mixes work well here, imo, but I'm still not a fan of a lot of the looks here. Too heavy and unsexy for my taste, but I always appreciate his originality and consistency, this is very interesting to look at. Thanks for posting!
That back shot you linked to is amazing, psylocke.
What I really appreciate here, the more I look at it, is that he finally seems to be working with a female body in mind
instead of just imposing his typical male silhouette.
I wasn't sure he was capable of that. Well done, Thom.
__________________ ....I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable."
i am definitely liking the lady-like classic silhouette. but like some of you it seems inconsistent in some areas....some looks are a bit too generic herrera/de la renta-esque but another a bit more experimental. there's certainly a blank canvas when playing with classic references....it honestly could have been more. jurgi persoons was a master at making lady-like interesting and forward...and that was almost a decade ago and still feels relevant and refreshing to me. i think if thom put as much creative efforts into his clothes as he does his shows,he could inspire generations--but mostly i feel underwhelmed and not fooled by the trickery of showmanship and styling.
Oh, this is good; I missed it! Love that layered peplum look and the playful take on suiting and layers throughout.
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Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged