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14-09-2010
  151
Ère de ℳodernité
 
Thefrenchy's Avatar
 
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That way, I can make a movie in London, I can edit in London, I can have my design studio in London, I can sell in London, I can put the collections together in London and I can have a real base and a real life and spend less of my time on an airplane
ZING ZING ZING

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14-09-2010
  152
When in doubt, wear red.
 
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Everytime I'am looking at those Twitter pics to make an idea of the collection, I 've got that Studio 54 parties feeling, like stolen moments of a major glamorous party. Especially with the afro wig , all the shimmery pieces etc.

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14-09-2010
  153
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Loved the few pics, LOVED the interview. And I love that he's making us all wait, I'll be thinking about this collection constantly! Long live Tom Ford!

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14-09-2010
  154
ɐʎ ʎǝɥ
 
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Originally Posted by mikeijames View Post
honestly, those candids could serve as an advertising campaign in and of themselves.
agreed

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14-09-2010
  155
V.I.P.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolkfolk View Post
Everytime I'am looking at those Twitter pics to make an idea of the collection, I 've got that Studio 54 parties feeling, like stolen moments of a major glamorous party. Especially with the afro wig , all the shimmery pieces etc.
Tom's later collections all had a 70's disco feel to me. they looked absolutely right for the moment (and, lets face it, you'd still steal the spotlight with them nowadays) but would have worked just as fine in the 70s in Studio 54. it was the time and place where it was all about glamor, excess, gold, smoky eyes, sex in all variations and positions, etc.

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14-09-2010
  156
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He is such a clever guy dont you think?, how can someone make more buzz about a collection this days??????????, yup, but not showing it to most people!!

Something tells me if everything goes well (why wouldn´t it!) we will see more public presentations froms his line in the near future though.

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14-09-2010
  157
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gosh, i reading all his interviews

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20-09-2010
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that WWD interview is brilliant. he's so incredibly clear in what he says. he's already an icon of fashion, but i'm certain that as time continues on, he'll most definitely be remembered as one of the most influential designers in fashion history.

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24-09-2010
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he is a genious when it comes to marketting...my god, he never aged.

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24-09-2010
  160
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I wonder if this will really work... in a world were everything is moving faster than ever he wants to slow things down like its the 70s! I dont like it to be honest but for me it'll take some time and if it works and someone else ends up doing too and than I'll end up liking it too.

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26-09-2010
  161
no tom ford, no thanks.
 
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fashion has needed a shot of exclusivity for a while. it's started with some of these astronomical pricepoints, but limiting exposure to these shows also helps. like tom ford said, it only makes sense when you're in a position like burberry where the set up exists to immediately fill orders taken from the runway.

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26-09-2010
  162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrisGalaxy View Post
I wonder if this will really work... in a world were everything is moving faster than ever he wants to slow things down like its the 70s! I dont like it to be honest but for me it'll take some time and if it works and someone else ends up doing too and than I'll end up liking it too.
It's definitely going to work because it fits in with Tom Ford's aesthetic and what's expected of him. Tom Ford is not only a very good designer, but he's also a very good businessman. He has his branding and marketing down to perfection, that everyone cannot resist it. Look at the buzz that was created around this and we have yet to see an actual piece. At the end of the day, everyone loves exclusivity and Tom Ford is the only one (other than the haute couture houses) that is really dedicated to them.

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sounds like "dirty European aristocracy".....

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29-09-2010
  163
DÔMMkammern
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeijames View Post
fashion has needed a shot of exclusivity for a while. it's started with some of these astronomical pricepoints, but limiting exposure to these shows also helps. like tom ford said, it only makes sense when you're in a position like burberry where the set up exists to immediately fill orders taken from the runway.
yes
but, that would be like saying brands like burberry do this just for the off-the-runway sales.
at the end of the day, I think, it's all about getting people to talk about your brand (that's why all the brands do it, don't they? the next-seasons clothes sales just makes is a tad more exciting, not really that much profitable).
shows give you exposure, just like a dress on an oscar nominee does, just like a cover of paris vogue does, just like a neiman marcus window does… a long trickle down process that ensures 6 months of brand exposure.

More and more, the momentum is built slowly but surely.
Brands keep the buzz sounding all year long, so even if what is now on the runway is a wonderfully light summer dress, it can get you thinking of that same label's alpaca blazer you saw the other day but couldnt try on... a real shame you just remembered because now you have no choice but to go back and try it on, and perhaps buy it!

getting tired of the shows and confused with seasons by the time they get to the stores is only half true when you spend hours and hours and hours here at tFS.
half true as we can't leave out the rest of members who instead of becoming bored with collections, they are excited to share them on the shopaholic threads, the "runway to photoshoot" threads, the styling, illustration, celebrity style threads…

in our example of the summer dress and the alpaca blazer, we can fit the story of this banker's 23 year old daughter who sees a studded python perfecto on the cover of her dad's FTWEEKEND and that just leads her to getting herself a shearling aviator jacket with a wonderfully oversized collar that very same afternoon.
what's relevant about this, is that Burberry isn't precisely watering down its brand by making it more accessible to the masses. we are not talking H&M here, we are talking studded python perfectos.
(btw, the WSJ's piece on Burberry's President last weekend is a must read, and it's available online. truly enjoyable).

my point is, exclusivity is not necessarily built on opacity. of course it is a different kind of exclusivity Burberry and Tom Ford go after (I wanted to say it's radically different kind of exclusivity, but his choosing BlingBlingBeyonce to model for him made me reconsider it), but the connection to the big public should be pretty similar.

In times when the public gets used to an information overdose, depriving them from it will only cause them to stop talking about it. Nobody, not even Tom Ford, can afford not to try their best at staying a 'top of mind' brand. Not today and not in any near future.
Tom Ford is not the kind of 'don't-draw-attention-to-myself' brand you so well described Brioni as.

The internet as a whole is a wonderful tool for measuring how much people talk about things… be it in terms of twitter hashtags, or google hot topics, or tFS threads.
If we take the isolated microcosmos of tFS, in over 2 weeks, this thread has generated only 6 pages of content, negligible data considering we've seen Dior "pre-show" threads getting thousands of posts.
Not to mention the fact that Tom Ford being back to scene is supposed to be BIG news on its own, regardless of the actual clothes he shows and how he does it.

So instead of 'building the momentum', Tom Ford has chosen to concentrate it. He has saved it all until the pictures of the clothes come out, coinciding with their arrival to the stores, with awards season et al.
When he releases the pictures, it seems his message would be a lot stronger than it if he had let us see the clothes now... but while it all sounds great in the short term, I say the strategy is hardly sustainable.
We have to take into account that when the pictures come out he will have to compete with the rest of designers that will be flooding us with their FW collections already.
Yes, it's Tom Ford, we all love his stuff, he's an icon, an aesthete, and what you might say… We all like quality better than quantity, but simplifying things to an extreme, to a 'post-per-thread-per-user' scenario: one hundred other collections in New York alone simply outnumber the possibilities of Fords collection to get the real buzz it deserves (or the one it would've gotten, had he shown his clothes as the rest do).
I'm not saying he can't succeed, I'm just saying he is taking big risks.
Until now I had really respected the way he had approached exposure with his menswear and beauty lines, this just seems out of touch with the reality.

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29-09-2010
  164
no tom ford, no thanks.
 
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first, with respect to burberry, the interview i've seen with their new ceo (i saw the charlie rose job), she wants to make burberry more accessible not less. she wants the average person on the street to think of burberry when they think of anything (clothes, gifts, watches, housewares, etc). it's like tiffany or ralph lauren or any other supposed "high class" brand. she's not striving for an air of exclusivity in that way. exclusivity with burberry comes in the same way it does with stores like nordstrom and j. crew. it's not that you're "rich" by any means to shop there, but when you're taking your three year old to crew cuts for his school clothes or your ten year old to "the rail" to pick out a few thousand dollars of clothes for fall, you lead an aspirational upper middle class existence than many in this country strive after. how do these brands maintain that air of aspiration, it's by entertaining the very rich with their most fantastic wears. its the schulemberger jewels in the front window at tiffany. it's ralph lauren hobnobbing with russian oligarchs at his paris store opening. it's nineteen year old girls using their daddy's credit card to buy a studded leather jacket straight off the runway from burberry.

tom ford is not after that customer in the same way. he'll nose them out of a few hundred bucks on a pair of shades or weasel a hundred bucks out of them for a new fragrance. this new launch is aimed at the top 1%. the so-called HNWI. and they do not appreciate everyone parading about in the same clothes they're in. they don't want to see a facsimile of their jacket on some drunk girl on the lower east side. that's why he's protecting his product this much.

it doesn't matter to him that the dior pre-show thread garners over a thousand posts because THEY DON'T ACTUALLY BUY THE CLOTHES. he's targeting the real deal. and those customers are willing to wait. seriously, dior might have done better to keep those pre-show offerings a secret actually given all of the furor they unleashed in the blogosophere. dior's real clients would rather be enchanted with an invitation to the actual show or with their offering in store, no?

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30-09-2010
  165
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and to catch the attention of that top 1% he puts Beyoncé in his clothes?
if you are going for a seriously exclusive private show, and if you were really trying to protect your product, you might as well go all the way for it and not tell the entire world about it. the juicy details on 'confidentiality agreements' were also unnecessary.
what difference does it make showing them 6 months before when Zara can get any product from design to the street in less than two weeks (true fact).
Everyone is praising how brave it is of him, going against what everyone else is doing. Brave isn't quite the word I would use, but rather indecisive.
If you want to cater the botoxed oligarch wife who is going to come and buy 25 outfits in a single shopping spree that's worth about the same her manhattan penthouse is, why show at all? why would you have Terry Richardson (aka antithesis of discretion) taking pictures? why breaking your strategy into what you do for menswear, and womenswear? Is this still Tom Ford, Sun-king of control freaks and coherence maniacs?

perhaps he doesnt care now about the number of post the dior threads get, I wouldnt care either, had I just sold a Warhol selfportrait.
I would think his CFO does care. when you see your return on equity being 'not as high' as it could be, because for some reason your perfumes are not quite flying off the shelves as other people's are, you do care.

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