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01-10-2010
  166
no tom ford, no thanks.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkammern View Post
and to catch the attention of that top 1% he puts Beyoncé in his clothes?
if you are going for a seriously exclusive private show, and if you were really trying to protect your product, you might as well go all the way for it and not tell the entire world about it. the juicy details on 'confidentiality agreements' were also unnecessary.
what difference does it make showing them 6 months before when Zara can get any product from design to the street in less than two weeks (true fact).
Everyone is praising how brave it is of him, going against what everyone else is doing. Brave isn't quite the word I would use, but rather indecisive.
If you want to cater the botoxed oligarch wife who is going to come and buy 25 outfits in a single shopping spree that's worth about the same her manhattan penthouse is, why show at all? why would you have Terry Richardson (aka antithesis of discretion) taking pictures? why breaking your strategy into what you do for menswear, and womenswear? Is this still Tom Ford, Sun-king of control freaks and coherence maniacs?

perhaps he doesnt care now about the number of post the dior threads get, I wouldnt care either, had I just sold a Warhol selfportrait.
I would think his CFO does care. when you see your return on equity being 'not as high' as it could be, because for some reason your perfumes are not quite flying off the shelves as other people's are, you do care.
because, my friend, beyonce is the top one percent. in fact, if you lasso in her husband's income, they're the top-of-the-top. that's his customer. why NOT invite her to model the clothes she will eventually buy? armani had to pay beyonce to sing about his brand, beyonce pays to parade around in tom ford.

honestly, we talk about this all the time in the "is couture dead?" thread (in all of its iterations), what does the high fashion industry need to reclaim some of its legitimacy? really, a big piece of it remains exclusivity. all of that accessibility, as you allude, does make for a quick buck, but it doesn't make for a sustainable path for fashion as we move forward. while fashion adherents will always know the difference between an h+m jacket and a jacket from chanel haute couture, for those who don't understand, the lines blur. and while its just revenue on the margins lost for these big houses, it's make-or-break for those not on firm financial footing. just ask luella.

as for domenico del sole, the chairman of tom ford, and, i'd argue, the man responsible for the fashion marketplace as we know it (with gucci, stella, balenciaga, and mcqueen still calling the fashion shots long after his absence) i'm pretty sure he knows what he's doing to keep the coffers full at tom ford. between the domenico and tom, it's hard to think of a twosome more in touch with what fashion needs now. let's recall that tom ford makeup made for swift sales for estee lauder, the tom ford cover made for newsstand success for vanity fair, the tom ford film earned him an oscar nomination, the tom ford fragrance and eyewear collection sales compete with those of big houses (some of whom only have shows because of those fragrances), and his menswear collection sells just fine without so much as a showroom presentation online, i'd say their instincts in this regard are on the money.

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01-10-2010
  167
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mikeijames, apparently i cant give u karma, but i agree with what you said

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03-10-2010
  168
DÔMMkammern
 
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I guess we can only agree to disagree.
only two little irrefutable buts:

1) beyonce belongs to the 1% Grazia readers can think of.
there's another rank, one that owns the the midsection of forbes' rank (the top 10: warren, bill and the "wallmarts" I would say have about the same visibility beyonce does, so they dont make a good example), and they lead the world's top companies. Challengers they are called, HNWI too as you said, and you just can't get anymore exclusive than that. we are talking women who dont attend couture shows for fear of being identified as part of the audience and who don't want to send the wrong image in their (still developing) home countries.

2) It is true that de sole seems to have this sort of King Midas touch... but going down to your last sentence, you say how fine his menswear does with an online presentation.
So I ask, who is he making happy with this secrecy around the women's show anyway?
If he's not addressing himself exclusively to the challengers, why not give his ladies the same treatment he gives to the men. Again, is it exclusivity or 'concentrated buzz' he is going for? I am not against the latter, I just think he could just admit to it and it would make great headlines still.


Salve Tom Ford, my friend

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03-10-2010
  169
no tom ford, no thanks.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkammern View Post
I guess we can only agree to disagree.
only two little irrefutable buts:

1) beyonce belongs to the 1% Grazia readers can think of.
there's another rank, one that owns the the midsection of forbes' rank (the top 10: warren, bill and the "wallmarts" I would say have about the same visibility beyonce does, so they dont make a good example), and they lead the world's top companies. Challengers they are called, HNWI too as you said, and you just can't get anymore exclusive than that. we are talking women who dont attend couture shows for fear of being identified as part of the audience and who don't want to send the wrong image in their (still developing) home countries.

2) It is true that de sole seems to have this sort of King Midas touch... but going down to your last sentence, you say how fine his menswear does with an online presentation.
So I ask, who is he making happy with this secrecy around the women's show anyway?
If he's not addressing himself exclusively to the challengers, why not give his ladies the same treatment he gives to the men. Again, is it exclusivity or 'concentrated buzz' he is going for? I am not against the latter, I just think he could just admit to it and it would make great headlines still.


Salve Tom Ford, my friend
yes, these high net worth individuals might not attend couture shows for fear of being photographed but would happily attend a private presentation like tom ford and givenchy have done. that furthers my point. just because beyonce is part of the top 1% that you don't like doesn't mean she's not his target customer.

also, the menswear looks come out in season much in the same way these photos will. and the collection presented online does not represent everything in store by a long shot. he could make a quick buck by posting the mens' shoes alone which are the stuff dreams are made of.

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09-10-2010
  170
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My speculation is that while it is a given that the Tom Ford's women's clothing line is going to be for the luxury market and therefore people with lots of money, to me the exclusivity is not about the wealthiest 1% - it is more of a kewl kids thing, and at the Tom Ford kewl kids table are hip hop artists and Mayflower decendents. There are plenty of uber-wealthy people who will consort with Tom Ford, who is intelligent, literate and polished, but I don't think that he is appealing to their sense of refinement. Tom Ford is a kewl kid and a bit of a maverick and that is what they are attracted to, not because they see him as clothier of the quasi-aristocracy.

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09-10-2010
  171
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Quote:
My speculation is that while it is a given that the Tom Ford's women's clothing line is going to be for the luxury market and therefore people with lots of money, to me the exclusivity is not about the wealthiest 1% - it is more of a kewl kids thing, and at the Tom Ford kewl kids table are hip hop artists and Mayflower decendents.
The .00001% tip-top wealthiest people of this world often don't place much emphasis on "luxury" goods, surprisingly and ironically enough. That's not to say they don't like luxury goods, or don't indulge in luxury goods, just that those people don't follow the fashion world very closely.

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09-10-2010
  172
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Yep, I agree and did not mean to imply otherwise. A designer (or any other business) has target markets, but that does not mean that everyone in the target market buys the product.

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09-10-2010
  173
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The verdict everyone’s been waiting for on Tom Ford’s first women’s show since 2004: probably the best fun that’s been had in fashion since anyone can remember. All the pre-gossip about celebrities modeling at the strictly exclusive, unlisted event at his menswear store at 845 Madison Avenue was true. No one is allowed to review or see pictures of the collection until Mr. Ford releases photographs and the film footage that (unsurprisingly) he was recording. A stern pre-show voiceover cautioned: “The use of photo or recording devices is prohibited.” But Vogue creative director Grace Coddington and European editor-at-large Hamish Bowles managed to sneak in a few sketches (above). What we can’t resist describing is the hugely enjoyable, utterly camp, and hilarious atmosphere of the louchely intimate seventies-nightclub-flavored and wholly lady-friendly happening Mr. Ford kicked up when he stood and introduced his cast of “many of the world’s most inspirational women.”

Gone was the sterile, slightly intimidating style of the Gucci/YSL Ford years. Here instead was the designer personally announcing a starry roster of fabulous friends of every age, ethnicity, and shape, and detailing—in tongue-in-cheek, old-fashioned couture speak—the specifics of what they were wearing: “Ladies and gentlemen, please welcome Ms. Farida Khelfa. Ms. Liya Kebede. Ms. Lauren Hutton. Ms. Natalia Vodianova. Ms. Lakshmi Menon. Ms. Stella Tennant. Ms. Beyoncé Knowles. Ms. Amber Valletta. Ms. Rinko Kikuchi. Ms. Karen Elson. Ms. Daphne Guinness. Ms. Marisa Berenson. Ms. Karlie Kloss. Ms. Rita Wilson. Ms. Julianne Moore.” And on it went.

As all the models reappeared for the requisite final turn, it became, inevitably, a free-for-all, friend-to-friend chat-a-thon with the guests.

The clothes? Well, the world will just have to wait a bit to see how great they were. (And they were great!)

But here, for the record, are three overheards. Karen Elson: “He made each of us look the best we have, ever.” Natalia Vodianova: “I don’t know what it was like for you out here, but back there—the combination of women! Everyone was so warm, so nervous, and so excited.” And from Rita Wilson, who basked in her pose-and-wiggle turn and brought the house down in the process, a summative phrase which should be a lesson to fashion beyond this launch: “What he did was give all of us permission to be ourselves.”


vogue.com

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10-10-2010
  174
Ère de ℳodernité
 
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^I really can not wait. Oh and those sketches are hilarious

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10-10-2010
  175
Looking Up
 
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I haven't really been reading the discussion here, but is the idea to create a "vacuum" of a sort? So by delaying the public release of the pieces Tom will create a more intense impact when they're finally out? This sounds kinda naive but that's what I've always thought.

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10-10-2010
  176
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^^ well that's actually part of the discussion. Tom Ford says it is all about exclusivity, though skeptics (cough cough... who, me?) think it's just playing around and creating buzz for the sake of it.
this is just like the G pubic hair... a true statement on society, and consumerism. 0% publicity

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13-10-2010
  177
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well, some people appreciate his approach... others don't. it's not like NOONE talks about Tom Ford, but what is here to talk about? fantasizing about the clothes? we'll dig in like hungry hyenas (and we ARE hungry hyenas) when the photos get released.

the clothes will be reserved for the lucky few, but his sales in beauty products (fragrances, lipsticks, he's just coming out with a nailpolish in December) and sunglasses, not to mention men's shoes and bags will soar once the collection is revealed.

and yes, the richest of the rich may not buy those clothes (some can be extremely stingy) but the woman that Beyonce represents (think.... 'Real Housewives of *any city in the US that is not the mid west*') THOSE are the women who are hungry for status symbols, THOSE are the women who drop 100k in an hour. they read that Beyonce is seen in a 20k dress? they think 'i can do better' and buy the 40k version of that dress.

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14-10-2010
  178
Looking Up
 
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This is what Cathy Horyn said about Tom's presentation. I love her writing.

Quote:
"There were no celebrities in the front row, so he was able to control everything and really make you look at the clothes… He could tell a unique story by putting those clothes on a variety of beautiful women, all ages, not calling attention to the fact that some of them are famous, and some of them are older and have all kinds of body shapes. That's what everybody had their mouths open about. It was so beautiful. What an idea. What fashion. And you don't come away with that often."

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14-10-2010
  179
DÔMMkammern
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Street_a_Licious View Post
the clothes will be reserved for the lucky few, but his sales in beauty products (fragrances, lipsticks, he's just coming out with a nailpolish in December) and sunglasses, not to mention men's shoes and bags will soar once the collection is revealed.
100k says the pictures will 'leak' right in the middle of the holiday season!

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14-10-2010
  180
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uhm

the pictures are supposed to be in Vogue Paris' January issue, no? and that one's being released, guess what, end of November. (if i'm not totally wrong about the release dates?)

Tom ain't dumb. he knows his sh!t.

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