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18-09-2011
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I am amaze that he manage to get himself back into fashion again. This time he is going to be huge!! Bigger.

I just hope that we can change the thread title. I mean I wouldn't like to see that Gucci stigma as I think he has move out and so are the fans!

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18-09-2011
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Quote:
London Fashion Week: Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2012

Tom Ford's latest show was another top-secret affair which drew the fashion industry's biggest names to London.

By the time Anna Wintour, Anna Dello Russo, Carine Roitfeld, Glenda Bailey, Harrods and co had taken their seats (promptly at 6pm) the select presentation had become a three-row show.

And quite a long show at that. Alas we can't bring you pictures - they're as tightly controlled as the curves were on that catwalk. They'll be released some time when Ford pleases. Meantime, over convivial cocktails pre and post show, cameras were politely being outlawed. So you'll have to make do with my sketches. Luckily for Tom, I'm lousy at drawing. So you'll just have to imagine how good Carmen Kass's trashed brunette French pleat looked.

Shame, because those were some curves. There's no doubt Ford knows how to harness a womanly figure. On paper - which is all we have, what with the picture embargo - it sounds simple enough, almost reductive: pencil skirts, to the knee, sometimes with a fish tail, tightly cinched in cummerbunds and peasant tops, all of it balanced on delicately sculptured wedges or metal pin-heeled stilettos. This is ground well covered in his days at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. So were the shirts unbuttoned way past bedtime, the tousled hair and the dark rings orbiting the models' eyes (ok they were defined black lines rather than the old smudgy crayons, either way, the Tom Ford make-up range got a good workout). But the lady vamping is a classic, which requires someone to champion it right now.

Besides, on closer inspection - which this show allowed - the detailing on these clothes was way beyond anything he attempted in his previous gigs.

Mesh, marabou, raffia fringing, a candlewick effect which suggested long hours at the hand embroiderers, plaited satin ribbons - these were just some of the techniques applied onto those hourglass silhouettes. Throw in bosoms, cupped in cantilevered chiffon, checks and some snakeskin skirts and it could have all looked a bit much.

In fact there were moments when you found all your taste certainties being pulverised. But that's not a bad thing. Ford is no minimalist (though who knew he had such a crush on purple?) and the heavy garnishing will go down well with all the stylists who were already mentally reserving what they'll shoot. Fashion needs its agitators. Customers - and there are plenty looking for an alternative to fashion's pastel, sporty colour blocking crazes next season - will find plenty. Those perforated leather skirts for starters, the leather bombers (worn with silk or leather jogging pants) and the guipure lace.
telegraph


Last edited by tarsha; 18-09-2011 at 04:17 PM.
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18-09-2011
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Ugh, i'm so sick of this secret presentations.

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18-09-2011
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Luxury is being taken to the highest level of exclusivity here and I don't blame Tom. Too many brands are quick to prostitute themselves where ever there is the opportunity to do so. I admire Tom's steady fast loyalty to his principles and visions for his own brand. He's been expanding his empire at a slow and steady pace.

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19-09-2011
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According to fashionologie S/S 2012 collection images will be released in early next month.

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19-09-2011
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^I read that in fashionologie too but I don't really see why he would have a private show only to release the pictures in early October. It doesn't really make sense.

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21-09-2011
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Here's what Lynn Yaeger had to say about Tom Ford in her NY Mag article:

Q. What eminent designer puts what seems like 150 looks on the runway — bottom-grabbing pencil skirts; tiny purple Floradora dresses — and forbids photography (apparently to lend an air of exclusivity, but in this case, maybe to protect his reputation) and emerges on the runway at the end of the show, then stands around with a bunny-in-the-headlights look in his eyes, waiting for a standing ovation that never comes?
A. Tom Ford.

she has some more interesting things to say here:

http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2011/...g_you_nee.html

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21-09-2011
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yep...
the collection is being panned by the press...
funny- cause i don't even care---but it seems like this is the biggest news of this show season so far...

...

wierdly---hearing that no one liked it makes me want to see it now!...
whereas before i really couldn't have cared less...
funny how that works...!

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21-09-2011
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To be honest, I'm really not surprised...

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22-09-2011
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what other bad reviews did the show get? im intrigued, as much as i disliked the previous two collections :|

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22-09-2011
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Here's another lukewarm review:

Jess Cartner-Morley, The Guardian: I’m going to come straight out with it. Deep breath: I didn’t think Tom Ford’s show was all that. Not that it was awful, by any means, but despite the beautiful tailoring and the immaculate execution it fell a little flat. It felt too self-referential. Too many frills and too few new ideas. There were gorgeous, curvy, super vamp dresses that I loved, but the flouncy peasant blouses and corset belts seemed like a Guilty Pleasures version of Tom Ford.

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27-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistress_f View Post
what other bad reviews did the show get? im intrigued, as much as i disliked the previous two collections :|
Apparently Le Figaro's Virginie Mouzat was not a fan of the collection

Quote:
Another Critic Pans Tom Ford's Latest Collection

Le Figaro's Virginie Mouzat was initially told that only fashion editors would be permitted to attend Tom Ford's show in London, not journalists or critics. However, she got an invitation anyway. "Thus begins what will slowly turn into a nightmare," she writes in her subsequent report. Translated from French:
From the first model on the runway, we are struck by what resembles an out-of-style Gucci collection from ten years ago. The fussy complications of the cuts (drawstrings, shirring, high-waisted skirts, leg-of-lamb sleeves), the disheveled hairstyle of a girl barely back from happy hour, and the overdone makeup... Overload is the key word of the show... The laced shoe? An ersatz model of an Alaia. The jogging shorts in black leather? Already seen last year in Celine's cruise collection, as were the sandals with bracelet straps (here, encrusted with rhinestones).The coat bristling with raffia? A pale version of those in Yves Saint Laurent's spring 1967 collection.

If all this wasn't bad enough, Mouzat then describes Ford's terribly embarrassing post-finale bow, which failed to incite a standing ovation from the crowd.
At the end of this inventory suited to Kim Kardashian, Tom Ford appears. He advances. And he remains there, in the central area, asking people to stand up. Perhaps [people would do so] out of distress, or sympathy, or because all of this is supposed to be festive after all. But everybody just looks at their feet. The music does not stop. Ford tries to speak above the noise, louder. We can't hear a thing. We just see this baby-faced man trying desperately to clear the air. He throw himself upon his companion, Richard Buckley, and hugs him (Ralph Lauren often hugs his companion Ricky at the end of his shows, but then he returns backstage). But here everyone stays put. So Tom Ford retreats toward Anna Wintour and now it's she whom he decides to embrace.Troubling.

Of course, as Mouzat points out, we won't see any photographs of the clothes for some time, so we'll have to take her word for it.
nymag.com

I feel emabarassed just by reading about the finale incident. I can't even imagine how Tom Ford felt afterwards

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Last edited by Melancholybaby; 27-09-2011 at 09:52 AM.
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27-09-2011
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So the reason behind this exclusivity was his insecurities... He appears as quite pathetic which is sad. Maybe he should consider stopping his womens line and just stick to making accessories.

It's true that everything he has produced so far [for his womens line] feels extremelly dated. It feels like he's stuck in the past and doesn't seem to understand that things have changed since his last days at Gucci... May he stop before his lose his credibility.

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27-09-2011
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Poor Tom. You can't be on top every season. He's got a bit of lagerfeld syndrome.

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27-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thefrenchy View Post
So the reason behind this exclusivity was his insecurities... He appears as quite pathetic which is sad. Maybe he should consider stopping his womens line and just stick to making accessories.

It's true that everything he has produced so far [for his womens line] feels extremelly dated. It feels like he's stuck in the past and doesn't seem to understand that things have changed since his last days at Gucci... May he stop before his lose his credibility.
A single collection gets a tepid review from some critics and that makes his women's line a failure worth discontinuing? Yeah, that's not extreme or anything.

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