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14-03-2017
  16
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vetements's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola701 View Post
I actually like this collection very much. It's not groundbreaking and it lacks in standout pieces (an alligator bomber jacket for example) but it's good.

What i like is to see his look evolve into something less formal but still chic with a lot of attitude. Men really buys his suits. In the shops, you can see some men buying like crazy.
This is not as extreme and decadent as what he did when he started but when he started, it was a new proposition in menswear.

He still has that "authority" in menswear... Maybe more than in womenswear. The TF suit is the suit young professionals and business men wears. It still got that fashion edge without being too wild. It's almost niche...

You can wear it with sneakers and it will be as chic as it is presented here. I love it.
I wouldn't mind wearing the first look or some of the eveningwear. It could be very chic on a woman.

Judging by the recent oscars, that seems to be the case although I don't really know how Hollywood works with such things, he might have paid for it but I assume most major designers could have done the same too?
Also, I am curious if he is sellable in Europe say against a brand like Zegna, or brioni, berluti, loro piana etc..

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14-03-2017
  17
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^^
He is notorious for not paying people to wear his clothes. He usually choose or agree to dress someone when it requested.

He is not really sellable against Zegna or Brioni in Europe. The cut of his suits is very "fashion"...Close to the body etc.
I would say that it's "above" Ralph Lauren Purple Label...

When he started in menswear, it was sold at Colette and brands like Zegna and all don't make it there. It is really seen as a fashion, cool alternative of the "suits".

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14-03-2017
  18
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Strong, commercial collection. Some of the comments here, JEEZ!

Its like people are completelly ignorant of the economic climate we live in, its a troubled time for fashion, and suits ask to sell, sell, sell now more than ever when there are houses shutting down!

Ford always does HIS take on luxe and thats what he is known for: some seventies vibe with excellent workmanship and a price tag to match. I wish I could afford his stuff, I think pretty much everyone could wear most of his collections!

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14-03-2017
  19
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Whether or not that's the formula for success today, remains to be seen. What he does feels like a formula on endless repeat, when you build a brand with as much investment power as that, you really need to gradually build it into other categories, offer your customer a diversity of options and interpretations.

Some seasons ago he introduced jeans and more casual options and it felt fresh to have that hanging next to his more sartorial clothes. I wouldn't mind if he showed a little more of that to affirm he is not only a suitmaker.

Having said that, I do think he cuts for a very specific demography of age and type of guy on whom this kind of styling looks good on. It's most certainly not the same customer that would go to other established 'high fashion' suit makers such as Dior or Saint Laurent.

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14-03-2017
  20
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zoom's Avatar
 
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Casual luxe? Yes. BUT he's cuffed all the pants too high..cant get past the styling. Feels dated by at least two years.

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Last edited by zoom; 14-03-2017 at 05:40 PM.
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15-03-2017
  21
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Join Date: Feb 2004
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There's the faintest hint of that sort of louche quality which he always imbued his menswear with at Gucci and Saint Laurent -- very much that "douche-y" vibe some have mentioned as a negative quality, only back then it was douche-y because his man was wearing a fortune while seemingly not giving a s*** or even trying to. There are tiny echoes of that here, in the way the shirts are carelessly unbuttoned or the way the silk pants look ready to fall off his hips...but as with almost all of Tom's menswear propositions for his own brand, it's not taken far enough to appeal to me.

Love the black silk suit, and I'd gladly wear all of the individual pieces in the black-on-black opening looks, but it doesn't move me the way I keep hoping it might.

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17-03-2017
  22
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I love it, and find it entirely refreshing compared to the overworked mens' collections we've been seeing in recent years. Also LOVE the classic tailoring and not seeing either oversized/overly-skinny cut pieces. I'd love my man to dress this way.

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