Military was the starting point for Tory Burch this season but her pairings weren’t rendered literally. She combined sharply cut pieces with bohemian elements and lots of great knits for a winning mix. A wool officer’s coat, for example, was worn over a caviar beaded silk top and skirt. Burch didn’t forget her affinity for glitz, this time demonstrating it with a more natural touch via tiny wooden beads for stripes on a sailor T-shirt, or a panel of raffia at the hem of a midi skirt. There was some serious costume jewelry, too, that she said will become more of a focus moving forward.
Burch also talked a lot about knit dressing, showing several unique examples: a Lurex jacquard was done in a chevron print and a cotton yarn was wax coated. Burch’s basics were still there in varying weights to satisfy her increasingly global business.
Walking through her pre-fall collection, Tory Burch points out that for a while now, women haven’t been dressing as seasonally as they used to. Sure, they might have to buy a coat because it does get cold. But why not wear it over a light-as-air chiffon dress? Layering is Burch’s solution, laid out in jacquards with metallic hints; coated yarn that makes way for twisted raffia in an almost ombré effect; and printed denim.
Burch has never been one for minimalism, and this showing for sure has a “more is more” feel. One particularly pretty dress is covered in blue and olive beads making a floral pattern (the designer did most of her “prints” out of embellishment). Then at the hem is a row of cotton fringe, oversize rhinestones, and more beading. The maximalist theme continues with accessories: big colorful jewelry and bags and shoes spangled with bold beading. She’s continued the midi-skirt length she offered in spring, paired with pointy-toed flats or kitten heels. And those coats? “We haven’t done military recently,” Burch says. “And I was kind of missing it.” Time and again she goes back to her mother Reva’s wool coat that Burch has been wearing “all her life.” Here, it’s reimagined in light brown with navy and deep-crimson piping. An oversize men’s-inspired cotton coat is decorated with wood beads, bugle beads, and sequins.
It’s the first time Burch has shown pre-fall (though it has been a longtime part of her business). It’s becoming more important to her company, which is making moves in Europe and Asia. Imagine all the climates that includes. With this not-quite-summer, not-quite-fall collection, the world should be all set.