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02-07-2008
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212DRESSINGROOM's Avatar
 
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Good for Alessandra! This is a beautiful collection. I think she fits in well at Valentino.

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02-07-2008
  77
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A lot of emphasis on the hips. I'm not a fan of this look. Although I do think some of the outfits here are really nice.

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02-07-2008
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For me it captures the spirit of Valentino but moves it foward to a new, younger audience which is what she said she wanted to do. Bravo.

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02-07-2008
  79
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from suzy menkes...

Quote:
Sugar plum Valentino
By Suzy Menkes
Wednesday, July 2, 2008

PARIS: 'Viva Italia," said Giorgio Armani, punching the air in front of a window overlooking the Place VendŰme in support of Alessandra Facchinetti as the young designer showed her first Valentino couture collection since the founder retired.

In the front row sat the starlet Camilla Belle in a fluffy white tulle dress, her movie credits in "When a Stranger Calls" an appropriate title for this dramatic generational changing of the guard.

Yet as the models stepped out delicately in the fairy-like dresses, with light layers creating sculptural ovoid shapes, the collection did not seem that of an outsider, but of a designer loyal to everything Valentino has stood for - though from an ultra-feminine point of view. That meant there was a meringue-sweet lightness about the dresses, with their boulle skirts, crystal embroidery and fluffy ruffs, which the designer said before the show had been inspired by the jabots of Van Dyck's paintings.

The overall effect was fresh and pretty but with nothing to challenge Valentino's classic concept that fashion should be a gift to women, wrapping them in a pretty parcel of finery.

For a first effort at couture, the show was an exercise less in cut than in original embellishment, from the origami effects to woolen bobbles on a long chartreuse gown to the metallic wheels that appeared on shoes or as jewelry. The house is famous for ruffles and frills, but Facchinetti could have reduced the sugar quotient - not least when it came as undulating waves of fabric rising up the back of a skirt.

It seems strange that someone so young should not take a more feminist point of view about fashion for the fast-paced modern woman, who does not go out only for cocktails or balls where standing up is essential in order not to crush a chicken-feather rear.

Facchinetti did build her silhouette on architecture, not least the opening outfit of jacket and skirt sculpted with stiffened silk. Other square-cut pieces, like a turquoise coat, was as rich as a cream cake with embroidery.

But the designer is allowed to express her sugar-plum fairy fantasy of femininity. And it was good to see the synergy between her and the long-serving couture hands at Valentino.

From the invitation printed on tissue paper to the airy lightness of the show, Facchinetti proved that she is more than a featherweight designer. And for her big challenge - the Valentino red dress - she had a winner: a draped chiffon dress, its hot color bleeding over shell-like tulle tufts, to make a strong ending.

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Last edited by kimair; 02-07-2008 at 03:03 PM.
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02-07-2008
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Ya boo sucks to the doubters.

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02-07-2008
  81
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I'm not sure why people are falling over themselves over that yellow dress on Natasha. The details are lovely, but the dress is shapeless and makes her look short.

The rest of the collection is great though. It's not perfect and again, there are some missteps, but Alessandra has really breathed a whole new life into Valentino while still remaining true to Mr. Garavani himself. This collection makes me excited to see what she will do in the future, when she is more established at the label.

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02-07-2008
  82
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This girl is very talented, i just wish she let herself have more fun, i mean she seems so focused on what Valentino was that she is frogetting to introduce more youthful and fun designs,its a job well done, but i hope as she puts out more collection and gets more confident she does show us something a bit different.

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02-07-2008
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I think it is the start of something very interesting.
To be fair, only a handful of wierdly shaped experiments could have been edited but all in all a very savvy start...

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02-07-2008
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and alessandra does it again! fantastic collection.

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02-07-2008
  85
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This is just entirely stunning. I love every single piece from that show, from shoes to dresses. Beautiful!

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02-07-2008
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I'm actually in love with that white suit on Vlada with the spherical skirt. It's so old school couture, to the point of being ridiculous....and I think that's what I like about it, that it's so wacky looking. I really like the focus on architectural little details like the collar on the oyster skirt suit Kim has on, or the way the cuffs on some of the blouses and jackets have that sort of exaggerated flare. There's something almost Jetsons about it, but it managed to not look kitschy.

It's a good first effort at couture, it certainly proves that she's up to handling the job.

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02-07-2008
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It's so not valentino! I love it! I feel like she is courting a whole new market for couture.

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02-07-2008
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I can tell that couture will be her strong point!!! Oh so happy she left Gucci!!!

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02-07-2008
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Yup I second that. This collection is beautiful.



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02-07-2008
  90
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Some of the pieces are lovely but Im not liking this collection as a whole.
No matter how good the new designer is I'll never like her more than Valentino himself.
I find it too difficult to like someone new running Valentino.

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