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18-12-2011
  151
no tom ford, no thanks.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valliaddict View Post
^Ugh, you have no idea how glad I am that Marc Jacobs is not going to Dior!!!! Could you imagine how tacky his collections would be?
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while i share your relief, i have no confidence that raf simons' interest in the couture -- outside of his latest three season dalliance -- runs any deeper than marc jacobs'.

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18-12-2011
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IMO I don't think that the incoming designer has to be too wedded to a certain aesthetic or concerned about continuity. In Dior's case, even though Christian Dior himself made significant contributions to modern fashion, he only headed the house for a few years and then other designers like Saint Laurent, Bohan, Ferre and Galliano came in and put their stamp on the house as well. I think that continuity is only a concern when it comes to not alienating the existing customer base, and when it comes to the couture customers I think that the relationship with the atelier is probably more critical. Re the RTW base, if Dior even has loyal / repeat RTW customers, they are used to switching things up because Dior collections in recent years have careened from mid-twentieth century to equestrian to Asiatic to floral to Flemish.

Re managerial interference, I think that too much is at stake at Dior for the Creative Director to have complete creative autonomy and it has also been widely reported that Arnault takes a special interest in Dior, but I don't know if Arnault's believed to be deeper involvement in recent seasons was simply because he just could not help himself. I suspect that there have been behind-the-scenes issues at Dior for sometime related to what ended up leading to Galliano's ouster and his seeking treatment for substance abuse, and that Arnault's involvement was probably related to that as well.

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The New Look not excessive?!?
Another example are the Junon and Venus looks.


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18-12-2011
  153
no tom ford, no thanks.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agee View Post
IMO I don't think that the incoming designer has to be too wedded to a certain aesthetic or concerned about continuity. In Dior's case, even though Christian Dior himself made significant contributions to modern fashion, he only headed the house for a few years and then other designers like Saint Laurent, Bohan, Ferre and Galliano came in and put their stamp on the house as well. I think that continuity is only a concern when it comes to not alienating the existing customer base, and when it comes to the couture customers I think that the relationship with the atelier is probably more critical. Re the RTW base, if Dior even has loyal / repeat RTW customers, they are used to switching things up because Dior collections in recent years have careened from mid-twentieth century to equestrian to Asiatic to floral to Flemish.
while i agree to a certain extent, we have had very few tests of a creative director taking over a house and pulling it in an extremely different direction than its predecessor. the two houses that spring to mind come in yves saint laurent under tom ford then stefano pilati and the house of balmain under oscar de la renta (for all intents and purposes) and then christophe decarnin. in both cases, both houses flourished under new creative direction: one buttressed by the wild popularity of their accessory lines and the other with inexplicable success in retail of the clothing. i do believe that the designs of a raf simons could accomplish either (or both) of those outcomes for dior going forward.

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Originally Posted by agee View Post
Re managerial interference, I think that too much is at stake at Dior for the Creative Director to have complete creative autonomy and it has also been widely reported that Arnault takes a special interest in Dior, but I don't know if Arnault's believed to be deeper involvement in recent seasons was simply because he just could not help himself. I suspect that there have been behind-the-scenes issues at Dior for sometime related to what ended up leading to Galliano's ouster and his seeking treatment for substance abuse, and that Arnault's involvement was probably related to that as well.
i don't agree with this. the "suits" need to worry about moving product and positioning the house to shine no matter what the creative director does. the wertheimers don't interfere when uncle karl wants to import an iceberg and put top models in chewbacca pants. monsiuer pinault does not veto a decision to put seven thousand dollar shoes on the balenciaga runway. with that said, all of our disparaging will not change their attitudes. the best we could hope for is someone strong enough to fight for what they believe in. i think those have already done that -- like hedi slimane at dior or some other marquee designers -- would find themselves best equipped to push a strong new vision forward given the realities at that house.

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Last edited by mikeijames; 18-12-2011 at 11:41 AM.
 
18-12-2011
  154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeijames View Post
while i agree to a certain extent, we have had very few tests of a creative director taking over a house and pulling it in an extremely different direction than its predecessor. the two houses that spring to mind come in yves saint laurent under tom ford then stefano pilati and the house of balmain under oscar de la renta (for all intents and purposes) and then christophe decarnin. in both cases, both houses flourished under new creative direction: one buttressed by the wild popularity of their accessory lines and the other with inexplicable success in retail of the clothing. i do believe that the designs of a raf simons could accomplish either (or both) of those outcomes for dior going forward.
As I stated, I think that it may work at Dior because of its long-standing history of having its different CDs put their stamp on the house and also their recent history of not having a very definable aesthetic. I don't think that this will work at Chanel because it has had variations of the same aesthetic for decades.

Quote:
i don't agree with this. the "suits" need to worry about moving product and positioning the house to shine no matter what the creative director does. the wertheimers don't interfere when uncle karl wants to import an iceberg and put top models in chewbacca pants. monsiuer pinault does not veto a decision to put seven thousand dollar shoes on the balenciaga runway. with that said, all of our disparaging will not change their attitudes. the best we could hope for is someone strong enough to fight for what they believe in. i think those have already done that -- like hedi slimane at dior or some other marquee designers -- would find themselves best equipped to push a strong new vision forward given the realities at that house.
I agree with the latter point and that is that at Dior you have an "it is what it is" situation. Re the statement that "the "suits" need to worry about moving product and positioning the house to shine no matter what the creative director does," I think that it is the opposite and that is that if the CD does not want interference from the suits, then s/he is the one that needs to worry about moving the product that is under his / her purview and / or producing "products" that position the house to shine with the expectation that it will push the sales of the other product lines.

There is nothing wrong with the CD having complete autonomy in theory but for that to take place then that means that the operations under his / her purview needs to be self-sustaining and generating an acceptable level of profit, or that the collections generate enough buzz that it raises / sustains awareness of the overall brand which in turn contributes to the bottom line of the other product lines. I suspect that in Lagerfeld's case that the Wertheimers do not interfere because either Karl's showmanship or the man himself contributes to the overall bottom line by raising / sustaining awareness of the brand. Also Lagerfeld may send Chewbacca pants down the runway but as noted previously, he is also going to send plenty wearable, classic Chanel-esque garments down that same iceberg dripping runway. With Balenciaga, the shoes fit the buzz generating criteria, it seems to me like there were entire editorials centered around Balenciaga shoes, plus given that it seems like Ghesquiere collections are becoming more accessible, for lack of a better word, I am not so sure if the bean counters have not gotten ahold of him. Furthermore I don't think that Balenciaga has a huge infrastructure or cost base vis a vis other houses, and I don't think that Ghesquiere does costly things, the shows tend to be in crowded salons in Paris, walked by mostly low-cost models (yeah, yeah I know that Gisele walked recently), so the fashion side of Balenciaga is either self-sustaining or is not a drag on the other product lines or other PPR brands.

 
18-12-2011
  155
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Quote:
The idea of couture doesn’t hold that thing for me. It’s archaic—in my opinion. I mean, I am really interested in the craftsmanship behind couture. But I can explore all that in ready-to-wear. With couture, one dress each season is photographed by a couple of magazines; there’s no advertising; it reaches 20 customers.
And this is why I'm so glad that Marc Jacobs will not be going to Dior. And IMO, this attitude comes out pretty clearly in his work. I'm not saying this is necessarily a bad thing, but it's definitely something I personally don't like about him as a designer.

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09-01-2012
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Simons to Dior. Confirmation after couture week.
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09-01-2012
  157
Hell on Heels
 
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^ who's that guy who tweeted it though?

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09-01-2012
  158
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^I wonder about that too. He always seems to have a lot of inside info on his twitter. Does he work in the fashion industry?

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09-01-2012
  159
technicolor tweed
 
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livejournal

 
09-01-2012
  160
Hell on Heels
 
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i'm actually overly excited about this. i mean as a huge fan of galliano and as an admirer of simons im utterly confused by this choice but it's -definitely- the most interesting one. im wondering what he'll bring to haute couture. it might be perfect.

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09-01-2012
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so good news: the drama is over
bad news: we gotta sit through one last couture show from Gaytten

 
09-01-2012
  162
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^ Simon? What about Alvin and Theodore??

 
10-01-2012
  163
Looking Up
 
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Wow, is it really that blunt? And I wanna the source for this tweet as well.

 
10-01-2012
  164
Alluring
 
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Such a pity we won't be seeing Christian Dior Haute Couture by Alexander Wang in the end. Lol.

Anyway, I hope this one's really true this time, Raf is definitely the most exciting choice among all the rumoured ones so far (the one mentioned above included).

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10-01-2012
  165
Geometric Discharge
 
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I'm actually getting really excited about it - maybe with the couture workshop behind him he'll be able to produce extremely experimental, modern work for Dior.

 
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