I love this collection. I think it's funny everyone's doing sportswear themes in NY this season and yet this is much more elegant than Y-3 usually is and doesn't look all that sporty. Some of it looks more like Y's than what Yohji usually does for Y-3, no? I love the voluminous skirts But the s'yte graphic T-Shirts still do nothing for me.
I love this collection. I think it's funny everyone's doing sportswear themes in NY this season and yet this is much more elegant than Y-3 usually is and doesn't look all that sporty. Some of it looks more like Y's than what Yohji usually does for Y-3, no?
I agree entirely. If we think back to Y3 SS10 - soccer world cup year - and what a nasty gimmicky collection that was - garments fashioned from faux football netting; pieces sporting national flags; models grasping soccer balls in the show finale; but the main point, the pieces really didn't feel like Yohji had designed them - the fact that for an Olympic summer Yohji's produced a collection which references the main event but with subtelty (it is a colab with Adidas after all [possibly the most strangely conceived joint venture in fashion] and sports people aren't going to totally ignore it's Olympic year) says to me either 'lesson learnt', 'a master back on form' or Yohji managed by now to wrestle a greater measure of artistic freedom within the joint venture.
So on the one side Yohji conventions - lots of black; asymmetry; deconstructed tailoring; slouchiness; play on volume; sometimes the priestly quitetude of eastern minimalism.
On the other hand - trainers (of course) with almost everything; sporty crew, bateau or cowl necks - vest shapes; backpacks; sports utility parkas; a sports bra; couple of references to weightlifting via a wide belt and gloves; couple of raglan sleeves; some athletic mesh but used sparingly this outing. So the sporty aspects are there but never allowed to become overbearing.
And on the third hand the anglophile references - all the tartan, a kilt shape, the half union jack boxerboots, a couple of trilby hats and having a red and a blue section right next to each other.
So all the somewhat necessary (and expected) references of the season and the colaboration are there but with enough true Yohji in the mix that it doesn't go gimmicky like SS10. The balance is right. It works.
And from Adidas's perspective the balance ought to be seen to be right. Y3 is obviously not intended to appeal to the jocks. For them the main line. There's no point having Yohji on board if you don't expect a large slice of avant gardism with your sports so let his voice come through.
Which leaves us with a couple of bits of symbolism from Johji. First the khaki militarism, the army greens paired with the union jack boxerboots. From an internationalist perspective, the patriotism of advancing Western nationalism in sporting competitiveness (or fashion brand economics) can be seen to be aligned to militarism. Without quite so devastating effects of course but it comes from the same jingoistic machismo mindset.
And secondly the chequered flag looks. From motor racing really but still a sports reference (although not an Olympic sport). It signals of course - stop - the race is run.
So detournement from within of the values of a multi national corporation, Adidas, by Johji. Not really. As Beaudrillard tells us, the culture industry absorbs dissent and converts it into consumer product - consumption being the drug we can't stop, the prison from which we cannot escape.
Image from Vogue.it. A measure of how far the Y3 colab has come since SS10
no doubt that this has its roots deep within yohji's hand. this is y-3 better than i have ever seen it. considering the price point that it hits, and the fact that it is much less about "sweats" now i think this will soar in stores.
so many of the jackets and longer tops are beautiful and even the footwear is good.
for the last few seasons i haven't even looked at the Y-3 collections because they had been so overly sporty that i just wasn't interested
lots of great stuff in here that is probably also a bit more universally wearable (or at least less intimidating) to those who don't want to push the envelope too far with avant garde pieces but want to explore/incorporate a bit of it into their wardrobes.
♥ tFS 2013 READING CHALLENGE ♥┃CURRENTLY READING ▸ The Art of Fielding by Chad Harbach┃COMPLETED ▶ 5 of 25┃
if anyone has rear view or detail shots it would be great to get a look at this stuff up close...
there are a lot of bags especially that are in the back of the models and can't be seen in these pics...