The cutting class.
iPad not letting me link photos, but they delve into the fabrication nicely. So please do read.
flaunt the imperfection
A brief biography of Y’s as told by Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto among fabric rails, Tokyo, 1981
Phototography: Takeyoshi Tanuma
Some dates to take note of:
1943 – Yohji Yamamoto is born in Tokyo, Japan
1966 – Yohji Yamamoto graduates from Keio University, Tokyo
1969 – Yohji Yamamoto graduates from Bunka Fashion College, Tokyo
1972 – Yohji Yamamoto establishes Y’s Company Ltd
1977 – The first Y’s collection is presented in Tokyo
2002 – The first Y’s collection is presented in Paris
2012 – 40th Anniversary of Y’s
But, what’s in a biography? What kind of providence hides behind these succinct dates and the matter-of-fact information that accompanies them? What remains of a human history when it has been stripped and reduced to a handful of numbers and letters? Who’s Y’s? Let’s find out.
1943 – Yohji Yamamoto is born in Tokyo, Japan:
“Because I was born during the war everything was in ruins. I really didn’t know what Japan meant, what Tokyo meant, what tradition meant – everything was destroyed. The generation of the children of the war must have been very angry. At the same time, because of Japan being totally ruined, we had nothing, no roots, so different from the situation in Paris. If a young French architect wanted to build something in Paris, he had so many regulations to deal with. But in Japan we had nothing, so we also had a great freedom.”
1966 – Yohji Yamamoto graduates from Keio University, Tokyo:
“In my youth I wanted to become a painter. Thinking about how furiously my mother worked to support me, though, prevented me from choosing that path to certain destitution. Eventually, to please my mother, I studied to enter one of the prestigious universities that the rich boys attended. Not surprisingly, about my third year there, it lost all meaning for me and I found myself despondent.”
1969 – Yohji Yamamoto graduates from Bunkafukuso Gakuin, Tokyo:
“After graduating university and finding myself without direction I casually suggested to my mother that I help her in the shop. She was furious. The reaction was only natural, as she had expected me to leave the university and transition smoothly into a job at a fine company. She lectured me, insisting that if I was serious about the work I should at least learn how to cut cloth. I enrolled in a vocational school for dressmaking and, jostled on all sides by women acquiring the skill in order to improve their marriage prospects, I spent my days tediously pinning fabric while pondering the question of what constitutes a proper profession for a man.”
1972 – Yohji Yamamoto establishes Y’s Company Ltd:
“Y’s is taken from Yohji’s, just like Tom’s or John’s. I simply wanted it as my brand’s name so that I could quietly work in the studio behind it. When I started making clothes, all I wanted was for women to wear men’s clothes. I jumped on the idea of designing coats for women. It meant something to me – the idea of a coat guarding and hiding a woman’s body. For me, a woman who is absorbed in her work, who does not care about gaining one’s favour, strong yet subtle at the same time, is essentially more seductive. The more she hides and abandons her femininity, the more it emerges from the very heart of her existence.”
1977 – The first Y’s collection is presented in Tokyo:
“At the time I was young, I felt like I was fighting against something. I wanted to break everything: the system, the conditions, the market. Japanese people didn’t accept my creations at all. They kept asking me: ‘Why are you making such clothes? They’re not like the ones from Paris or Milan, your things are not fashion.’”
2002 – The first Y’s collection is presented in Paris:
The main reason I continue to do this is because I want to shout ‘Here I am!’, to show myself, it’s a very basic intuition. But as a fashion designer I’m not very interested in fashion, trends or marketing. What’s next? I hate that. As you know, the market in the world has become fast, fast, fast, cheap, cheap, cheap. It’ s very far from me. My job sometimes is just to wait.”
2012 – 40th Anniversary of Y’s:
“I think the most important thing is that I have to continue to do the same thing, to send out the same message, to remind people that I am still here. Then people who are not so enamoured by the market might think, ‘Yohji always does something creative, he doesn’t follow fashion or the trends, he has never followed fashion or the trends’. Maybe I can be like that. Maybe that’s enough. To keep on going by myself, for myself, and hope that makes a difference to the people who doubt. But being called a ‘master’ makes me feel ambivalent. To be skilled and experienced means that I’m old, and this is what causes my ambivalence. But today beautiful things are disappearing every day. I want to keep it back. I want to say don’t go too far, too easily. Take it easy. This is my law.”
"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
Last edited by softgrey; 05-10-2014 at 09:32 PM.