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05-02-2004
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Yohji
does anyone know how Yohji manages to stay afloat financially when some of his clothes are completely unwearable..and therefore, unsaleable. Where does he get his financing?

Rei Kawakubo is another one...some of her stuff is borderline insane!

I wear a lot of both their designs, but a lot of it is even too out there for me...strictly editorial...

so how do they do it? where are they getting money?

anyone know?

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05-02-2004
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Hi softgrey,

I have read somewhere that CdG sells about 80-90% in Japan only. They also have more commercial lines (I know you all know :-) and their total turn over reached about 100 M USD. I can't remember for what year tho, prob. in 90s. According to that info, Comme sold more than Yohji and Miyake together.

Things could change a lot up to now, but I think Comme is going very strong. Rei also supports Junya, giving him total artistic freedom. And this year collaboration with Perry Ellis, for examples, brought about 10.000 tshirt order :-) (that could mean about 1M euro, prob.:-)

Comme also has perfumes, but for very limited distribution and reached 2M usd in 2002, b4 they signed a deal with Puig for distributing #2.

That all I know, all info are from the Internet, tho.

Love CdG:-)

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05-02-2004
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I think Yhoji sells very well, you must rember that just becuas its on the run way it dos not necissarily end up in the stores ( usually made to order etc.)

Comme recently signed with a big spanish make up company,s o they seem to ahve been pushing the fragrences alot.

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06-02-2004
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ditto ngth
CDG & Yohji are both huge in japan,
their out-of-japan stores are basically for 'prestige'
but yes, they sell a lot they are both highly successful

regarding Yohji, his latest collaboration with adidas helped a lot
-financially.

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06-02-2004
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I've wondered that myself. While his prices are outrageous to begin with, his clothes are pretty "out there" for women. His men's line is unwearable to me because of his 40-year-old-unfit-man cut. It's all very portly and hanging. I would think that he stays afloat because he is revered for being so long in the business. I don't think he'd make it if he was starting out today.

As for CdG, they do have a lot of wearale stuff, although their runway clothes is unwearable fo the most part. Like others said, they do perfumes well and collaborate a lot. I think Watanabe added A LOT to the company, because his clothes is incredible and wearable at the same time. Rei is also a master of colloboration, her latest is with Fred Perry (I read that yesterday in i-D).

I wonder more about Issey Miake. His clothes have been nothing special and outrageously expensive ($600 for COTTON pants, wtf?). Btw, softgrey, have you been to his boutique in Tribeca? It's quite a sight, it's done by Frank Gehry.

P.S. All this said, I still respect all of the aforementioned.

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06-02-2004
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you should see people outside the Japan cdg, johji's shops when the collections arrive... they wait all night in order to be there first when doors open next morning

and of course for some of us a 600 pair trousers might be a lot but for some its ..cheap

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06-02-2004
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interesting-thanks for all the input-I have to admit, I forgot about fragrances and it's interesting to hear that they have a large sell-thru in Asia. \that would make up for low sales elsewhere-I'm sure Lena's right about stores for prestige.
and of course-there's the Yohji/adidas thing. but that's only for a couple years now...I was thinking more long-term...


I agree w/ those folks who praised Junya- he's excellent. Gwyneth Paltrow is wearing Junya!...and I wouldn't exactly say she;s adventurous in her fashion choices. That is the ultimate in wearability.

Faust-I've been to Issey in Tribeca. I love that place. I actually liked the past couple of women's collection with the new designer-what's his name...I must be getting old, my memory's failing...anyway-I want to a gallery show Issey had downtown several yrs back-4yrs?-the clothing was treated as art and sculpture. It was hard to deny the genius and innovation. I don't actually own anything though-so what does that say?

Thanks guys!

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06-02-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by nqth@Feb 5th, 2004 - 8:53 pm
And this year collaboration with Perry Ellis,
Sorry, this is actually Fred Perry :-) (thanks Faust for correction:-)

More:
http://www.iht.com/articles/119746.html

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06-02-2004
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All the big three (Comme, Yohji and Miyake) have great loyal customers in Europe too, esp. in the UK. They are not in the front pages of newspapers tho. Comme is also among those houses people travel to see the shops :-) In all bigger European cities there are some shops that stock their clothes.

As I remember Junya made about 25% of Comme's turn over, I think it was when he first launched his Man line.

Yohji also has the Y line for younger customers. Now the co with Adidas really helped him to reach wider audience, indeed.

And Comme does sell those runway clothes in their shops, really :-)

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06-02-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by nqth@Feb 6th, 2004 - 1:05 pm
All the big three (Comme, Yohji and Miyake) have great loyal customers in Europe too, esp. in the UK. They are not in the front pages of newspapers tho. Comme is also among those houses people travel to see the shops :-) In all bigger European cities there are some shops that stock their clothes.

As I remember Junya made about 25% of Comme's turn over, I think it was when he first launched his Man line.

Yohji also has the Y line for younger customers. Now the co with Adidas really helped him to reach wider audience, indeed.

And Comme does sell those runway clothes in their shops, really :-)
hahaha

i know they do-i'm one of the crazy people who buy them!

I have one white dress from last s/s that I have never been able to bring myself to walk out of the house in...still has the tags on...and it cost a fortune...but i love it and i will wear it eventually...when the time is right.

ngth- thanks so much for the info ...

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06-02-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by softgrey@Feb 6th, 2004 - 11:26 am
interesting-thanks for all the input-I have to admit, I forgot about fragrances and it's interesting to hear that they have a large sell-thru in Asia. \that would make up for low sales elsewhere-I'm sure Lena's right about stores for prestige.
and of course-there's the Yohji/adidas thing. but that's only for a couple years now...I was thinking more long-term...


I agree w/ those folks who praised Junya- he's excellent. Gwyneth Paltrow is wearing Junya!...and I wouldn't exactly say she;s adventurous in her fashion choices. That is the ultimate in wearability.

Faust-I've been to Issey in Tribeca. I love that place. I actually liked the past couple of women's collection with the new designer-what's his name...I must be getting old, my memory's failing...anyway-I want to a gallery show Issey had downtown several yrs back-4yrs?-the clothing was treated as art and sculpture. It was hard to deny the genius and innovation. I don't actually own anything though-so what does that say?

Thanks guys!
NAOKI TAZIKAWA ?

Check out :-

http://www.pollyanna.com/

This is a shop in the wilds of Northern England , but just LOOK what it stocks for both women and men !

KIT

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06-02-2004
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KIT- That's so cool! I'm moving to northern England immediately!!

seiously, though...how amazing is that YSL bracelet?!?! I love that!

thanks honey-we need a store like that in NY!

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06-02-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by softgrey@Feb 6th, 2004 - 1:22 pm
I have one white dress from last s/s that I have never been able to bring myself to walk out of the house in...still has the tags on...and it cost a fortune...but i love it and i will wear it eventually...when the time is right.
You are welcome :-)

I acctually saw 1 woman in Paris wearing a olive Comme trouser from that SS 03 collection :-), walking proudly in St. Honore in the morning :-). But I was there between flights for a few hours only. That collection was lovely.

Btw there is an interesting art. about "money kills avant gard" in FT:

http://news.ft.com/servlet/ContentServer?p...d=1075982319302

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06-02-2004
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WHAT AN AMAZING ARTICLE! today's date...people are finally putting it in print and talking about it puclicly...that is very encouraging..I've been saying this among friends for ages...I never would have thought to look at the financial times...but i guess they are the ones analyzing the bottom line...

thanks so much for sharing that-very cool!

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06-02-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by nqth+Feb 6th, 2004 - 3:14 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(nqth @ Feb 6th, 2004 - 3:14 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-softgrey@Feb 6th, 2004 - 1:22 pm
I have one white dress from last s/s that I have never been able to bring myself to walk out of the house in...still has the tags on...and it cost a fortune...but i love it and i will wear it eventually...when the time is right.
You are welcome :-)

I acctually saw 1 woman in Paris wearing a olive Comme trouser from that SS 03 collection :-), walking proudly in St. Honore in the morning :-). But I was there between flights for a few hours only. That collection was lovely.

Btw there is an interesting art. about "money kills avant gard" in FT:

http://news.ft.com/servlet/ContentServer?p...d=1075982319302 [/b][/quote]
Hi nqth

At the moment I am reading a book that I recommended in ' The Spot ' , which is both a taxing and absorbing read and is absolutely relevant to this subject .
It is ' Fashion on the edge ' by Caroline Evans , and I have promised to review it there , once I have read it . If you are a student it is an absolute MUST of a read .

Anyway , many thanks for your post of the article . It is a real find .

Yours KIT

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