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06-07-2003
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Yohji Paints A Beautiful Picture S/S 04
Quote:
Originally posted by Fashion Wire Daily Paris July 6@ 2003
Yohji Paints a Beautiful Picture


By Godfrey Deeny

Haute couture, that uniquely Parisian phenomenon that’s meant to be fashion’s experimental laboratory, finds itself in a bit of a conundrum because Yohji Yamamoto, the Japanese master who is by far the most inquisitive designer in the Paris season, is not technically considered a couturier, at least as far as the official calendar is concerned.

The novel, witty collection he showed Sunday evening in a Paris high school was very likely the most revolutionary show we will see this week, even though the show was not even on the official calendar.

Yamamoto’s big idea this season was body painting, where he had painted the models’ torsos, shoulders, arms and hands in Kandinsky-like hues of turquoise, brick red, faded pink and lapis lazuli.

"I’ve noticed lots of young women in Japan getting themselves covered in this sort of paint on their faces; I just wanted to take that idea somewhere else. I call it body make-up," smiled Yamamoto backstage.

Over this tinted talent, Yohji placed tops of semi-transparent mesh, macramé plastic and chain mail of denim, all worn with the best collection of denim pants seen in eons in Europe. These he cut low in the crotch, just a little baggy and dotted with grommets, for an exotic, beautiful effect.

All Yohji shows are a blend of the wryly subtle and faintly absurd, as were a long series of dresses that made up most of the second half of the collection. Some were the ideal look for the next Gagosian opening, others nigh impossible to work out how to get into. Hats in black felt, transparent plastic and raffia were all immense, one so large that it needed a "window" at the front brim.

Makeup too was bizarrely beautiful, with transparent "daisy" patches on the models’ cheekbones and smears of gel pulling back their hair. With Marc Jacobs and Azzedine Alaia sitting front row, the designer drifted back and forth between ancient Japanese references and modern attitudes, especially when it came to footwear.

The models almost floated down the stage on a series of platform flip flops, though a post-show note termed them "plateau thongs.” Produced by Adidas, these came in bright reds, greens and black and white, bore the designer’s signature and will be highly influential. They are not part of the designer’s successful Y-3 alliance with Adidas, but will be sold as part of Yamamoto’s signature line, and not cheaply – expected retail price is 300 Euros.

To inspire him, Yamamoto sent Adidas’ creative director Michael Michalsky two prints of 18th century Japanese geisha girls. The results were spectacular. Though an undoubted hit, the show was a little confusing. Indeed all his signature shows are, ever since Yamamoto decided to stage them at the start of couture week. Seasoned veterans sitting front-row at Yohji’s catwalk show found themselves asking out loud from which season were the clothes on the runway. The collection, officially a luxury ready-to-wear collection for spring-summer 2004, opened the French fall-winter 2003 season.

The Chambre Syndicale, French fashion’s governing body, is keen to make Yamamoto a foreign member of the profession. Its president Didier Grumbach told FWD that Yamamoto’s signature collections are "unquestionably haute couture." But don’t expect this to happen soon.

When FWD asked Yamamoto about the Chambre’s approach, the designer responded. "I don’t want to always be an off-shore member of the season. I’d like to be recognized as a couturier. But for me this whole thing of seasons doesn’t mean much anymore. The difference between them isn’t very important today. We need to understand that."
I'm going to faint when I see this - I'm sure.

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06-07-2003
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ooh how interesting! can't wait to see pics of this show.

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06-07-2003
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everything sounds great
with one exception. "plateau thongs"

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07-07-2003
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here is one photo guys
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07-07-2003
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I can't see the shoes very well, but I love the dress.

Thanks Lena.

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07-07-2003
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Quote:
Originally posted by Yahoo! News @ Sun Jul 6@10:17 PM ET
Yamamoto Puts High-Tech Spin on Geisha Shoes

By Joelle Diderich

PARIS (Reuters) - Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto brought together East and West in his ready-to-wear collection for spring-summer 2004, blending traditional shapes with sportswear fabrics to disconcerting effect.

Models daubed in blocks of bright body paint paraded in black robes accessorized with high-tech suede and mesh versions of a geisha's traditional wooden platform shoes.

Sunday's display in a 19th century Paris school kicked off four days of haute couture shows in the French capital.

Statuesque British model Erin O'Connor looked nonchalant in a draped off-the-shoulder creation with an asymmetric trail, which was paired with bright red platform thongs emblazoned with the characteristic three stripes of the Adidas sportswear brand.

"The inspiration for this season was ancient Japanese footwear and the challenge of turning it into high-tech futurism," Adidas global creative director Michael Michalsky said in a statement.

Yamamoto's three-year collaboration with the German sports equipment maker has brought him back from the brink of retirement and introduced his designs to the masses.

If the acid-hued platform shoes showed Yamamoto retains a finger on the pulse of street fashion, the clothes reflected a designer immune to fleeting trends.

His timeless black gowns had a graphic, yet romantic feel. One was scooped away at the shoulders, waist and hips to reveal tantalizing glimpses of flesh. Others were pieced together from finely sliced squares of fabric or plastic.

Yet despite the daring decolletes and transparent tops, the type of woman conjured by Yamamoto retains an asexual mystique. And judging from the sea of black clothes in the audience, that is exactly the way his clients want it to remain.
I'm a little excited.

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07-07-2003
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WOW! All exciting stuff! Wanna see the photos from both collections!

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07-07-2003
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Looking forward to seeing lots of pics of these

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07-07-2003
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Sounds amazing! Looks amazing! I really hope he dos become an official haute coutuir(sp), he deserves it, its amazing!

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07-07-2003
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07-07-2003
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wow is all i can say. I don't like the shape of the pants but those black dresses with the body paint underneath It adds a whole new dimension especially with the cutouts and the shape of the dresses. so fab.

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07-07-2003
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its trully beautiful, but still ... the collection brings me strong memories of Chalayan and Helmut Lang anyway, nice work, love the first posted long jean skirt

not sure about the shoes either

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07-07-2003
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*squeals* I love it! I'm at a loss for words.

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