Yohji Yamamoto - Page 19 - the Fashion Spot
 
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minimal excerpt from yohji in conversation with one of the youngest editors at wwd japan

wwd: someone was referring to you as "man of humanity and exploring spirit". what do you think of yourself ?
yy: funny. luckily I got to be a fashion designer, otherwise I guess I might have been a criminal.

wwd: the most unforgettable collections ?
yy: SS1999, FW1994, and SS1995

wwd: what was your parental impression when limi got tattoos ?
yy: I'd be thankful if she was content with just tattoos

wwd: any ideal how the sales assistants at yohji yamamoto should be ?
yy: there was and still is, but it has never been realized. the original concept of aoyama flagship was " the shop imaginably the hardest to step into". ideally they would be smoking, aloof without saying even conventional phrases with which you'd expect them to speak to you; wouldn't guests be more free without hospitality ? since the door is already hard to open, once you opened it the game is decided, which is the way I like it.

wwd: of the lines already abolished, is there anything you are still regretful for ?
yy: "workshop", a workwear line


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Last edited by runner; 18-05-2017 at 04:05 AM.
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Quote:
his work mutely collects and resisters the affective traces which make up the individual. the traces of time are, for yamamoto, traces of destruction, of aging, of decline and of use: traces of death, beautiful because they are ugly. what is important is not the eternal and uniform result of history, but the individualized sum of experiences which are collected in its course. it is the vast field of individual experiences that stands behind his multilayered look. for him, the ideal look is that of "the vagabonds, the gypsies, the travelers, those who carry their life on their back, everything that they possess, their memories, their treasures, their secrets. this is the perfect dress: one would never be able to create something like that." perfection and the supposed progress of history are, for yamamoto, only the inhuman forms of a flight from this kind of beauty. beauty lies in what is hidden: it is the secret of the contingent traces, of their collection and their appropriation.
from fashion zeitgeist (2005) by barbara vinken, chapter 8 yohji yamamoto: the secret sewn in ( also chapters for CdG, lang, margiela, etc if anyone is interested )

https://ja.scribd.com/document/24371...ystem-2005-pdf



although the video was apparently part of the woolmark campaign (2016), what he is saying there is just what he has been saying for decades.


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basically he says they are cool because they are not fashion. that fashion cannot compete with life. but that's why he can try to get close to them. as closer as possible or beyond fashion.
so in that sense his work is about negating fashion by means of fashion. fashion's self negation.


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As I've gotten older I've been able to appreciate Yohji in a whole new way, and I'm able to afford his clothes (if I get them when I visit Japan).

He's truly one of the great designers of our day.

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from yowgow (where the costume designer joined the stage )


so the costumes - yohji yamamoto

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what is that, runner? play?

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yes, sort of play, or dance performance play? but far from a musical.

from the flier
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^ wow.. I know you just intended to share some Yohji but you got me watching Min Tanaka's earlier stuff for a whole hour. Makes the earlier stage of my "Japanese dance" obsession (or just Akane Takada) seem like a Teletubbies marathon.

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when there is something (some object or yourself), it's impossible without place (or space) in which it is. so place is indivisibly important to min tanaka and his dance. place comes before any personal elements.


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there is a kind of road movie titled "umihiko yamahiko maihiko". a dance road film around indonesia for 45 days.
he says the wonderful thing during the travel was "I had been doing lots of act like these there, but I had never been scolded, had never been stopped."


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^ amazing. I've been watching a lot of his videos, it's kind of relaxing.. he comes across as funny but a little intimidating in interviews.. like Yohji. Would be nice to have them exchange thoughts in some publication as they conceive the purpose and impact of what they do in a similar vein.. exploring human necessities and trying to be as close to its roots, as opposed to being isolated thinking what they're doing is an extraordinary craft... its essence couldn't be further from that.

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no object can exist without place. if that is a basic rule of our universe, if things are at the same time, indivisibly, things-in-the-world, that world may be no exception. there has to be some place like truly infinite openness engulfing the world. some immensity which the finite thing called the world is put in. that place is exactly what certain zen viewpoint would call nothingness. and that's when, in a way, it is possible to say that there is nature in our heart (or consciousness or unconsciousness), instead of the other way round.
his dance could be seen as an expression of this kind of awareness.
and yohji implies something similar when he says what he attempts to express ultimately is to express nothing.

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