Perfectly acceptable collection: it chugs along quite nicely but not his finest hour. The pieces with the cross-lacing felt wrong - too tarty. On the upside the standout was the white cocoon sweater coat-dress
After last season's feeble collection, he really applied himself to the design this time. Haven't seen such interesting new cut and shapes on the runway - it shows his ingenuity, mastery of construction and materials. With just three colours and little textures, he pulled it off. The man is a genius.
Incidentally, what's with the "hand" this season? Saw this at AF Vandevorst, Jil Sander, and now YY?
I will have to disagree with Tentacl Ventricl. This is the best collection I have seen so far. Such a sensual collection, with sinuous silhouettes in spite of the heaviness of the fabric. The red is seductive, and sometimes even seems dangerous, slashing through the clothes, pushing itself through.
Very seductive, sexy sirens. And playful: Very Jessica Rabbit meets Red Riding Hood.
I don't think it's a particularly strong collection as the shapes are nothing new, but it's a refreshing alternative for the Yohji woman. The bits of colored-hair is a bit too teenager for my taste, but that's just a styling nickpick. It's great to see him not take things so seriously and design a traditionally sexier and more feminine silhouette that still remains Yohji.
The use of color here in particular is wonderful. Red has many codes: transgressive, seductive, powerful. White is soft, cleansing, but also nullifying. Really, this is just brilliant.
People may try to cerebralize Yohji, but I think that's absolutely the wrong way to go about it. He is far less conceptual than the other Japanese designers, and doesn't seem that interested in concepts either. His work is more like the purest forms of music and poetry: emotional experiences.