I think it's such a shame that all the subtlety and directness of what the "personnage" of Stefano Pilati is capable for himself, IS, canceled and reduced in a small message of 25 looks by Joe McKENNA.
Stylist are such a big power these days............So sad !
Look like a Formal Collection with a bit of twist for windows appealing.
Fashion can be a quiet affair and still create an impact. The cut and tailoring looks immaculate, and the lines are so sleek I can feel the coolness. And I notice how regal the clothes contribute to the wearer overall; you know, the concept that the man wears the clothes, and not the other way around.
there's some interesting pieces (i'm a sucker for cropped anything and i really like, though simple, adrien sahores' look) but this collection looks messy to me whereas his previous ones seem more refined.
It's not groundbreaking, but it's a very nice collection. The tailoring is on point, love the one botton jacket and the camel trench with a structure inspired from the resort collection. The frabrics are quite nice too, love the leather and the snake, it reminded me of the Jil Sander collection but more light.
This is a nice enough collection but it offers no point of view. This is the kind of thing you would see in stores, in between the two major seasons. Nothing exciting or dynamic; just classics. Theres nothing wrong with that, but, the runway show is an opportunity to put forward "a vision", so to speak. And we know Pilati is capable of doing this.
His first few collections for YSL, both menswear and womenswear, were much more interesting and dynamic.
even yves saint laurent has gone python. it's interesting watching him trying to negotiate that creative distance between that fantastic volume we had in those moroccan inspired collections and the great slimness he reintroduced last season. he hasn't found the balance, but he's definitely found something quite covetable while he works out those differences. some of those jackets and pants will sell like hotcakes.
everything is never quite enough.