How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Front Row / Designers and Collections
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
08-02-2007
  31
fashion elite
 
tylw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: tangled up in you
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,561
Sargent's Madame X:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg madame_x.jpg (98.6 KB, 0 views)

  Reply With Quote
 
08-02-2007
  32
fashion elite
 
tylw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: tangled up in you
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,561
(metmuseum.org)

In the early 1980s, when Diana Vreeland sought to represent the best of contemporary haute couture in the galleries of The Costume Institute, she selected Yves Saint Laurent as the focus of her groundbreaking exhibition on the work of a living designer. As a master of the traditions of haute couture, Saint Laurent simply had no equal. For many women of elegance, including Mrs. Kempner, the Saint Laurent style for a time surpassed all others as a source of unwaveringly elegant and technically refined clothes for day and night. In a period of more than 40 years, Mrs. Kempner acquired almost 600 examples of this master's work. Although she clearly had an affinity for Saint Laurent's man-tailored designs, especially "Le Smoking"—his version of a tuxedo for women—and his pantsuits, she was equally seduced by his sensuous evening dresses. Saint Laurent's mastery of drapery is evident in Mrs. Kempner's choices, whether in chiffon, satin, or silk crepe. Her gowns also represent the designer's famously sensitive yet audacious use of color. The Saint Laurent palette has been compared to the vivid hues of a Matisse painting or the set designs for a Diaghilev ballet, but they are, on closer study, distinctly the designer's own.


Yves Saint Laurent (French, born Algeria, 1936)
Evening Ensemble, spring/summer 1989
Gown: green and olive silk georgette; cape: blue silk georgette
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.48a, b)


Attached Images
File Type: jpg kempner_03.L.jpg (110.3 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg kempner_03A.jpg (109.9 KB, 1 views)


Last edited by tylw; 08-02-2007 at 04:06 AM.
  Reply With Quote
08-02-2007
  33
fashion elite
 
tylw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: tangled up in you
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,561
(metmuseum.org)

Yves Saint Laurent (French, born Algeria, 1936)
Ensemble, spring/summer 1989
Jacket: beige raw silk rep weave with lacquered shell, gold metal, and rhinestone buttons; dress: bronze silk georgette
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.52a–c)


Attached Images
File Type: jpg kempner_05.L.jpg (91.5 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg kempner_05A.jpg (85.1 KB, 1 views)


Last edited by tylw; 08-02-2007 at 04:06 AM.
  Reply With Quote
08-02-2007
  34
fashion elite
 
tylw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: tangled up in you
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,561
(metmuseum.org)

Yves Saint Laurent (French, born Algeria, 1936)
Evening Ensemble, autumn/winter 1972–73
Jacket: green silk twill with gold, green, and red paillette, bugle bead, and seed bead embroidery; camisole: red silk chiffon; pants: black wool twill and black silk satin; belt: gold metal, faux pearl and emerald cabochons
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.71a–c)


Attached Images
File Type: jpg kempner_06.L.jpg (85.7 KB, 4 views)

  Reply With Quote
08-02-2007
  35
fashion elite
 
tylw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: tangled up in you
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,561
Not YSL, but part of Nan's collection (metmuseum.org):

Although Mrs. Kempner's collection reveals a strong loyalty to Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, and Oscar de la Renta, in the 1960s and 1970s she was enthralled by the work of Madame Grès. In the October 10, 1979, edition of The New York Times she noted, "I have Grès dresses going back twenty years. I use them like a library." Mrs. Kempner's number of Grès pieces, small relative to her other favored designers, nonetheless comprise a survey of Mme. Grès's best efforts. Pleated silk jerseys such as these two examples document the most iconic styles, but alpaca jersey examples and an innovative silk crepe model on view in the exhibition represent lesser known modes.

Madame Grès (French, 1903–1993)
Evening Gowns, 1971 (left); 1969 (right)
White pleated silk jersey; Bordeaux pleated silk jersey
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.6; 2006.420.5)


Attached Images
File Type: jpg kempner_01.L.jpg (90.6 KB, 3 views)

  Reply With Quote
08-02-2007
  36
fashion elite
 
tylw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: tangled up in you
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,561
(metmuseum.org)

Unlike Saint Laurent, who flirted with androgynous and subtly transgressive effects, Valentino prefers an elegance that is consistently inflected by an alluring prettiness. A designer whose work is notable for its advocacy of the unambiguously feminine, Valentino addresses Mrs. Kempner's requirements for comfort and glamour with this pleated evening gown in the designer's signature color, the brilliant Valentino red. Executed in silk chiffon, this gown is an example of the Valentino atelier's unsurpassed skill in working with a fragile and particularly difficult fabric. The gown sheathes the body while the fullness of the skirt suggests an airiness and freedom of movement. Mrs. Kempner met Valentino when he was an assistant to Jean Dessès, a designer noted for his virtuosity with draped effects. To this day, his rigorous early apprenticeship with Dessès informs Valentino's work.


Valentino (Italian, b. 1932)
Evening Gown, 1984
Red with white pin dotted silk chiffon
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.93)


Attached Images
File Type: jpg kempner_07.L.jpg (105.2 KB, 3 views)

  Reply With Quote
08-02-2007
  37
fashion elite
 
tylw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: tangled up in you
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,561
Some more of Nan's "Honey Bee" (gettyimages.com)

PARIS, FRANCE: Former top model Carla Bruni presents a creation for French designer Yves Saint Laurent, 22 January 2002, during the retrospective part of Saint Laurent's last ever show at the Centre Georges Pompidou art gallery in Paris. Hours before unveiling his last ever collection, innovative designer Yves Saint Laurent said his love affair with women was not over and hinted he had other cards up his sleeve. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY















  Reply With Quote
08-02-2007
  38
trendsetter
 
Bidwell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: France
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,323
A thousand thanks, Tylw.
Hail le Saint!
His 70's Rive gauche collections are my favorites(as they are for M. Jacobs seemingly).
I'll see what I can rummage up.

__________________
The wisest men follow their own direction.... Euripides
  Reply With Quote
08-02-2007
  39
fashion elite
 
Ianastar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Engulfing a Lobster Roll
Gender: homme
Posts: 2,930
Wonderful Wonderful. Thank you so much!!

I love that Frock site.

and I need to get those DVDs.

__________________
It's said,
The map of the world is on you
The moon gravitates around you
  Reply With Quote
08-02-2007
  40
fashion insider
 
oomarhatelier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: MILAN
Gender: homme
Posts: 2,087
wooow thanks everyone!!!

__________________
You don't have to be a rich
to be MY GIRL!
  Reply With Quote
08-02-2007
  41
taz
MUSE
 
taz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,548
i love that x dress..how simple, strong & chic it is?
& the green and olive silk georgette with the blue cap the color compination is amazing ...
thanks Tylw you brought back the beautieful memories of the old good days.


Last edited by taz; 08-02-2007 at 02:02 PM.
  Reply With Quote
11-02-2007
  42
fashion elite
 
tylw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: tangled up in you
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,561
I've tried in vain to find a famous William Wegman pix of a weimaraner in YSL stilettos. Does anyone know what I am talking about? If so, please post. It's in Wegman's _Fashion Photographs_, and it's one of my favorite YSL photos!:p

Taz, I am always struck by how many people characterize YSL as "conservative," mistaking his elegance for a stodgy adherence to tradition. I imagine many people would consider the "X" dress boring, but it provocates without vulgarity. I cannot believe that Tom Ford is now, in common parlance, associated with the YSL heritage. Boo!

  Reply With Quote
12-02-2007
  43
fashion elite
 
Ianastar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Engulfing a Lobster Roll
Gender: homme
Posts: 2,930
Quote:
Originally Posted by tylw
I've tried in vain to find a famous William Wegman pix of a weimaraner in YSL stilettos. Does anyone know what I am talking about? If so, please post. It's in Wegman's _Fashion Photographs_, and it's one of my favorite YSL photos!:p

Taz, I am always struck by how many people characterize YSL as "conservative," mistaking his elegance for a stodgy adherence to tradition. I imagine many people would consider the "X" dress boring, but it provocates without vulgarity. I cannot believe that Tom Ford is now, in common parlance, associated with the YSL heritage. Boo!
I read recently that when Tom Ford took over Gucci, that his first two lines were completely inspired by designs of YSL from the 70s. The black and white pant suits, and the exposed chest etc. And that eventually he ran the gamut of YSL's designs, reinterpreted and modernized for Gucci.

Now that Ive read that, I can totally see it.

However, while Tom Ford was at YSL, I think he kind of flopped a little.

__________________
It's said,
The map of the world is on you
The moon gravitates around you
  Reply With Quote
12-02-2007
  44
tfs star
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: San Francisco
Gender: femme
Posts: 1,764
tom very much distorted the YSL legacy, but i can understand what he was doing (or what i think he was doing at least). there was also a darkly romantic side to ysl's work. during his time, yves himself was a bit controversial and shocking as well. of course, as time has gone on, we've been defamiliarized by this. tom ford brought the shock factor back, in a sense, but he could have done a lot better.

  Reply With Quote
13-02-2007
  45
fashion elite
 
tylw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: tangled up in you
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,561
I understand what you are saying, but I still see a great difference between YSL and Ford. I always felt that YSL's clothing respected women, even in their sexual power, but never in a dehumanizing way. He preferred looser silhouettes, mystery, ambiguity—I think all these concepts are lost to Ford. To be darkly romantic is not the same as vulgar. Ford's clothing always seemed like one-liners. I was slightly disappointed to learn that Carine Roitfeld had styled that first Gucci collection. It's sad when a woman thinks about her fellow females in such sexually simplistic terms.

I so wished that Alber Elbaz had been allowed to stay at YSL—I would have liked to see how he developed the YSL heritage. The stuff he is doing at Lanvin is OK, but there was a real bizarre (in a nice way) quality to the stuff he was designing at Rive Gauche.

That said, I am relatively young, so I would love to hear more about YSL's impact as it happened during the 60's and 70's! I think ms-nietzsche is right! The provocation of a YSL smoking suit, or pants in general on a woman—these are not things we can fully appreciate today!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ms-nietzsche
tom very much distorted the YSL legacy, but i can understand what he was doing (or what i think he was doing at least). there was also a darkly romantic side to ysl's work. during his time, yves himself was a bit controversial and shocking as well. of course, as time has gone on, we've been defamiliarized by this. tom ford brought the shock factor back, in a sense, but he could have done a lot better.

__________________
RIP Neda
and others...
  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
laurent, multimedia, saint, ysl, yves
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:21 AM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2014 All rights reserved.