Gucci Announces It's Going Fur-Free - Page 4 - the Fashion Spot
 
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26-04-2018
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Continued

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Anna Sui

"I think we've been seeing [a move from fur toward fake fur]. It’s a trend, especially for Millennials, they get it. It’s part of their whole psyche as far as dressing. The Chinese have perfected [fake fur]. They computerized it. They can do these little prints, they can simulate Mongolian, they can achieve amazing colors. And the movement now is so good that you can't tell the difference. Then, the price point is so reasonable. All those things are making it so desirable. I think also a lot of the Millennials are vegetarian so they would never wear fur. So, it's kind of the perfect situation at this point.

"I’ve always done both. I worked with Adrienne Landau for years. Not this season, because this price [of fake] got so much better. I mean, I love fur. I would be lying if I said I didn't want to do fur again. But it's an issue."

Silvia Venturini Fendi

"Of course, I live in real life and so I’m interested about that, very much interested. In this collection we are mixing fur with clothes, with fabric that looks like fur. And there’s more and more use of shearling, which is in the food chain. But I’m very confident in the new technologies, so we will see.

"We are open to investigating [adapting Fendi technologies to non-fur products]; Fendi has been always very democratic. I remember during the Eighties when this movement was very, very strong, we did this show with fake fur worked like they were real. So I think that we will see. But, of course, when you decide to go for that, you have to do it in a very committed way. It’s not just [about] not doing fur and doing crocodile or exotic-skin bags, which doesn’t make sense. So the minute you decide to do it, you have to be really committed. I respect very much people who are really committed to it. We can use our technology with any materials. We will see. The future is going to be very interesting.

"The environment: That’s very worrying, too. The quality of faux fur is quite beautiful, more and more interesting. But it’s toxic to the environment. You just don’t know what to do anymore."

Tom Ford

"Oh, my God! The fur question! There’s no way to answer this fur question without getting in trouble with somebody…

"I have recently become vegan — within the last year. [Going vegan] starts to make you question [fur]. I have started using much more fake fur. I’m not yet ready to say that I’m fur-free. Now, I have limited the fur in these collections and going forward to food by-products, which does not sound very sexy. “I’m selling you a food by-product!” That means cowhide, it means shearling, it means not doing fur that is raised purely for its pelt.

"No mink, no fox. I have used a lot of fake fur this season. I’ve also used some shearling and what is called pony in the industry but it is not pony, it is cowhide….Because whether I’m consuming meat or not, other people are, so these are things that are collected.

"I’m also very torn about this because fake fur is terrible for the environment. People think of fake fur as a disposable thing. They buy it, they wear it a few seasons, they throw it away, it doesn’t biodegrade. It’s a petroleum product. It is highly toxic. And then, you could argue that tanning leather is a highly toxic process. A fur coat gets recycled. People wear them for 30 years, they give them to their kids, then they turn them into throw pillows. So I don’t know the answer to that. I’ve been very honest, and it’s probably going to get me in all sorts of trouble with everybody, but I don’t know the answer."

Pierpaolo Piccioli

"It's a very delicate topic. It is undeniable that today this is a relevant issue. Fur has always been part of Valentino’s heritage; our house contains historical and iconic fur pieces. So this is definitely part of the Valentino iconic imagery.

"I work side by side with specialized professionals in this field, women and men who have worked in this art form for years. So as a creative director, if I’m considering the eventual abandonment of fur production, I first have to uphold two responsibilities. The first is easier — I need to reinvent a contemporary alternative to fulfill this same aesthetic heritage and feeling. The other, which is very important to me, I must protect all the people, the artisans. Ethically, it's very important to protect all the people that work in Italy [in the fur industry]. In my company, I have many people that work on this. Before doing any [changes], we have to experiment.

"Maybe we [can] transform the knowhow and the craft into something different. Maybe using fake fur with fantastic craftsmanship is also very luxurious and very couture. It's not the material that makes a difference but the craft of the people. I'm experimenting. I am open to new challenges. Why not?"

Luciano Santel, chief corporate and supply officer of Moncler

"Actually, fur is not in Moncler’s DNA. We believe that product quality means a complete 360-degree approach encompassing human rights, animal welfare and traceability along the whole supply chain."

John Galliano

"I was having lunch with Dan [Mathews, president of PETA] the other day. We don’t use fur, unless a by-product — sheepskin. Other than that, we don’t use fur. People are more aware than ever. There are more vegetarian and macrobiotic restaurants in Paris than ever. At Maison Margiela, it’s not going to be used anymore. Which raises the challenges as to what else can you propose that brings that perceived sense of luxury.

"I’m a good pal of Dan's. I think the awareness he’s brought to the world is phenomenal. A few years ago, I was in St. Tropez swimming, relaxing, and the last person I expected was him. It was like 'Jaws.' He was under the water and then came up… I will never forget the story. We had a drink, we had a lunch, and he’s so charming, and we communicated and we talked, and it made a lot of sense. And then I became vegetarian, vegan, macro and we kept up — really cool."

Phillip Lim

"As a company, we have always steered away from exotic furs such as minks, sables, foxes, etc. It’s is not in our brand DNA as we believe that luxury is more defined as "a state of mind"; rather than an exotic skin. Although we use leathers and shearlings, we always strive to be conscious of consumption and only using what is necessary and byproducts of animals we consume.

"I respect every brand’s choice to do what’s right for them and realize our industry is undoubtedly going through many necessary shifts and changes at the moment, and I expect that as an industry we are constantly evolving our choices and decision-making to reflect a more conscious world."

Massimo Giorgetti, MSGM

"It’s a very delicate subject. I can’t be an extremist. I can’t say yes to fur or no to fur. I think that what is happening in fashion with the use of fur is the signal of a social change, a change of society, rather than of the sector. In food, the direction is toward bio food, and everywhere there is growing respect for the environment in all that we do, and the realization that we can’t go on this way.

"I am not sure that the use of ecological [fake] fur is a definitive or winning solution. And the plastic, hence petrol, used to make it is undoubtedly very harmful to nature and the environment. The use of plastic, more than that of fur, is really a thought that continues to whirr in my head. All the sneakers we produce, the clothes, the bags…all the plastic that we use in our collections. I think that the next step is how to drastically reduce the use of plastic. Are ecological [fake] furs really the winning answer? You wear an outfit made in plastic, convinced you have respected animals and the environment, but is it really so?

"In my collections, there are ecological [fake] furs but also forays into real furs. My position? I am thinking of going totally toward the ecological [fake] furs but the idea of the material used to produce them really makes me hesitant."

Clare Waight Keller

"I have done [real fur] in the past. My personal opinion is yes [we’re seeing the end of fur]. I think so. I really believe that the new generation coming through is not accepting that at all. I think there are actually incredibly amazing alternatives and I think it’s now just waiting for the next leap for when they actually grow it.

"It’s a real dilemma between the two [fur-free and the environmental hazards of fake fur]. But I think [we’re at] the mid-step to the next stage of growing it. I think it’s a transition and it’s really about the support of that movement toward — going to actually growing leather and fur."

Diane von Furstenberg

"I am excited that technology has provided a way for women to feel as glamorous with faux fur."

Fausto Puglisi

"Trends lately are changing so fast that I don’t think things are going to last one way or another.

"I used furs just twice in my designs. Despite the ever-changing trends, I do believe that fur is not an appealing material, and I have not used it for the past three years. I do not like furs for more than one reason. First of all, for ethical reasons: I have two dogs and I love them like family members, so I can no longer ignore how fur animals are treated. Second, for aesthetic reasons: For me, fur is not flattering for women at all. I love working with different materials that have the same warmth but are much lighter and more versatile, as the double fabrics and cashmere cloths. My position is the same for fur and shearling."

Jeremy Scott, Moschino

"I stopped using fur in my designs a few years ago and have always been a big proponent of faux fur in my collections."

Antonio Berardi

"I stopped using fur a few years ago, even after having had a fur collection. The gratuitous use of fur everywhere and anywhere, that supposedly screamed luxury, sent prices sky high, which supposedly also screamed luxury (which in-turn had to be embellished so as not to appear bland and un-interesting), and finally, to end up lining the inside of shoes, another supposed sign of wealth, became abhorrent to me.

"As a designer, you use fabric, any fabric, regardless of price, to create something beautiful and functional, hopefully. Fur has its limits. Its beauty lies in the fact that it suits the animal and not the human. Should we need to be extravagant or to keep warm, then today, fur is no longer the answer."

Joseph Altuzarra

"Watching girls that I work with, they don't wear a lot of fur. This season, fur was just not what I was feeling at all. We're not doing it for the foreseeable future, but I’m not following any Kering edicts or anything in particular. My personal feeling is that it feels like women are moving away from it and want things made from noble fibers or things that feel cozy and comfy but also that they feel ethically comfortably with.

"Also, I feel the way that women are dressing today from luxury brands is more and more daywear. It’s not so much about these super-special occasion things, but more like they're going into a store for a nice dress or a cool pant or a nice sweater. Doing fur like this couture-y, really special piece is resonating a lot less than it used to. Maybe it's just a mood I'm feeling with this collection. I see how the women around me dress, and I was responding to that."

Julie de Libran, Sonia Rykiel

"[For fall 2018] I used Mongolian lamb and coupe fabrics that look like fur but they’re extremely light. There’s also faux fur and faux leather and shearling. [With fur] I’m being very careful to use it for more than one season, the same fur, the same pieces, to reuse [the actual samples]. I feel that you have to give it more value and realize the importance of it. I totally respect and understand people who don’t like it and don’t want it. That’s why I wanted to do faux fur as well.

"There’s a purpose for fur, for the warmth and the utility. It’s always existed, too."

Marco de Vincenzo

"I have to admit I was among the firsts to use eco-fur on the catwalk since I had understood that real fur was going to be demonized. I think that looking for alternative materials is just one of the many ethical choices [that] fashion will have to make in the next few years… I don’t think we can make any [distinctions] between one animal and another. The only exception I can accept is for fur coming from the waste of the food supply chain."

Astrid Andersen

"I think fur is actually going to become more relevant because it is one of the things that is actually so sustainable. When you really look into the process of the fur, there is zero waste."

Casey Cadwallader, Thierry Mugler (Cadwallader will show his first collection for the house, a capsule, in May in New York.)

"I am a fur and leather specialist. It was even on my visa. I worked at Loewe for a long time, and at J.Mendel for about six months. So, I was in the fur world in a big way for a while. I loved it. But as I've grown and matured a little bit, I’ve changed a little bit; my eating habits have even changed a little bit — I don't eat cow anymore, for example.

"I really wanted to come out with Mugler being 100 percent animal-free. I've been doing a lot of research about the new biological leather that's been created… I had this dream of working with this laboratory leather, sending it to French tanneries, having them refine and finish it to be the same technical properties as a beautiful French plongé and then, use that. Unfortunately, that's not something that's available to us today. The day that I can, we switch for sure. That would be amazing."
wwd.com

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And from the other side:

Quote:
The Future of Fur: What Retailers Say — Or Don’t

As some companies remove fur from their offerings, the future of the commodity is in question. WWD contacted retailers to hear their opinions on the matter, and a few brave souls responded.

ON THE RECORD

Mario Grauso, president of Holt Renfrew

As a luxury retailer, we continue to listen to our customers’ wants and needs, while keeping a close eye on the industry and the activities of our vendors. As the industry changes, we look to change with it.

While we continue to offer an assortment that does include some fur, we made the decision to close six of the seven Holt Renfrew fur salons in 2017.

While we are evaluating our position — we continue to source fur products from our key vendors for now, to ensure that we are delivering the assortment our customers are seeking — and continue to see strong sales with many of our vendor-driven fur businesses.

On closing six fur salons: We as a business are assessing sensitive materials within the industry and have highlighted fur as one of these. Due to this sensitivity, we decided to minimize our own branded fur business and will continue to evaluate our position.

Ulric Jerome, chief executive officer of Matchesfashion.com

Customer feedback lies at the heart of our business and our consumers are already very well-informed on the sustainability debate including the issues around all types of materials including leather, real fur, faux fur, shearling and cotton.

We have partnered with Eco-Age to develop and launch our Code of Conduct in 2018 across all our suppliers. This Code ensures that any fur we sell comes from certified sources and encourages our designers to use alternatives. The Code of Conduct also goes much further — looking at every aspect of the supply chain and all the materials used in production.

Sarah Stewart, buying director at Maxfield

Our position is regulated by the city of West Hollywood, so we don't buy fur because we can't sell it.

[Customers’ reactions to fur] are split across the board. Clearly we have clients who wear fur, such as Rick Owens' clients who have purchased his fur pieces from us before the ban. Then you have people who feel strongly in the other direction. Faux fur is so much better than it used to be, so a lot of people switched to wearing it because of that, or because of increasing social consciousness. But there will always be clients who won't buy faux simply because they love real fur. There really are no clear delineations. There are high-end clients who do or don't wear it. It's not necessarily an age thing. I would say to each his or her own. Because I don't have to buy fur for the store, it just means you move into [buying] something else.

Allison Samek, chief executive officer of Fred Segal

The decision to not sell fur at our flagship was made for us by the City of West Hollywood back in 2013. Because our new store is located in the heart of West Hollywood, we knew before opening that fur wasn’t an option. More importantly, we are fully supportive of the ban and have now extended it to our LAX airport store as well.

We had individual stores within Fred Segal that sold fur up until a few years ago, but as our flagship is located in West Hollywood, we didn’t sell fur when we opened there. We recently asked our licensee partners to stop selling fur as well. LAX sold fur last year and we asked them to pull it this year.

On customer feedback: We were surprisingly getting very strong antifur feedback at LAX this year! Last year we carried a fur-lined jacket line that sold very well, but this year we received several negative comments about it and made the decision to pull the product and align with our West Hollywood store policy. We don’t think fur is missed at our flagship, and the faux-fur options these days are great.

On brands saying no to fur: I think it is really about listening to the customer and keeping an open mind to the political climate. We have to be open to evolving and admitting that things that once worked well for us may not work as well the next year. We saw this at our airport store and made the change happen quickly.

Matteo James Moroni, internal audit & sustainability at Yoox Net-a-porter Group

Our move to go fur-free reflected our customers’ growing desire to see the industry make responsible choices. As a sustainable business, our goal is to act as an industry-wide catalyst for change, and it has been exciting to see the number of luxury brands embrace the commitment since we announced our decision.

Barneys New York, corporate statement

As a specialty luxury retailer, Barneys New York is constantly reevaluating this topic and carefully considering how our policies can provide customers with the most sustainable fur products. We are taking the necessary measures to make the right choices and prioritize the ethical treatment of animals.

David Jones, corporate statement

David Jones has had a ban on the sale of fur in its stores since 2002, a reflection of its commitment to the welfare of animals. To ensure that David Jones continues to meet this commitment, a Supplier Code of Conduct is in place to be signed by all suppliers which states that all suppliers must ensure that real fur is not used in any product supplied to David Jones. This agreement is monitored for compliance by a dedicated Ethical Sourcing team, which drives continuous improvement in all ethical aspects of the supply chain as part of the David Jones Good Business Journey.

Harvey Nichols, corporate statement

Harvey Nichols is committed to sustainable and responsible practice across all areas of its business, and ethical trading is an important part of this program. Harvey Nichols requires any brand that uses fur to adhere to the Animal Sourcing Principles as set out by the Sustainable Luxury Working Group.

Myer, from its fur policy statement

Myer is committed to a corporate culture of ethical and socially responsible behavior, and meeting the expectations of key stakeholders.

With regard to the use of fur products, Myer is attuned to the ethical and social values of our customers and the wider community, and recognizes that there is a community sensitivity associated with the use of fur obtained from animals by any means.

Myer is committed to not selling merchandise that contains fur. Only merchandise containing fake or faux fur will be permitted.

TAKING THE FIFTH

On the other hand…

Galleries Lafayette — declined comment

Harrods spokesperson — “I’m afraid we don’t comment on fur.”

Isetan Mitsukoshi — declined comment

Lane Crawford Joyce Group — declined comment

Le Bon Marché/24 Sèvres — declined comment

Moda Operandi — no response, but a response is still possible

Neiman Marcus — declined comment

Nordstrom — declined comment

Printemps — declined comment

Rinascente — declined comment

Saks Fifth Avenue — declined comment

Takashimaya — declined comment

Tsum — no response
wwd.com

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Of course Karl had to go there! Took a quick squiz, but I'll be reading more in-depth later.

Thanks for posting, Dodencebt!

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