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09-07-2004
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Location: London
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More Than Casual Friday - bringing prints, colors, and separates into the office
Photographer: Mario Sorrentti
Models: Dewi Driegen, Tetyana Brazhnyk, Maria Clara Boscono, Ann-Catherine Lacrioux


Opening page: Matthew Williamson


Left: Miu Miu
Right: Derek Lam

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09-07-2004
  107
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Both: Dolce & Gabbana


Left: DVF
Right: Louis Vuitton

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09-07-2004
  108
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Left: Chanel
Right: Jil Sander


Left: DKNY
Right: MaxMara

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09-07-2004
  109
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Both: Lanvin


Both: Vera Wang

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09-07-2004
  110
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Left: Calvin Klein
Right: Versace


Closing page: Proenza Schouler

Total: 18 looks

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09-07-2004
  111
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Strategic Alliance - Trend: ruched, ties, corset influences
Photographer: Raymond Meier
Models: Anouck Lepere, Diana Dondoe, Nicole Trunfio


Opening page: Alexander McQueen


Left: Versace
Right: Valentino

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09-07-2004
  112
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Left: YSL
Right: Helmut Lang


Left: Martin Sitbon
Right: Alessandro Dell Acqua

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09-07-2004
  113
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Left: Lanvin
Right: Narciso Rodriguez


Left: Sophia Kokosalaki
Right: Versace

Total: 11 looks

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01-08-2004
  114
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Back to AW 04...

The Shape of Things to Come - the influence of Yohji Yamamoto
Photographer: Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin
Models: Daria Werbowy & Natasha Poly


Left: Narciso Rodriguez
Right: Balenciaga


Left: Celine
Right: Chloe

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01-08-2004
  115
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Both: Alexander McQueen

Total: 6 looks

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04-08-2004
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AW 04

Security Blanket
Ph: Greg Kadel
Model: Julia Stegner


Opening page: Sonia Rykiel


Left: Givenchy
Right: Marc Jacobs

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04-08-2004
  117
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Left: Chloe
Right: Moschino


Left: Alexandero Dell Acqua
Right: Givenchy

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04-08-2004
  118
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Left: Alexander McQueen
Right: Stella McCartney


Left: DKNY
Right: Carolina Herrera

Total: 12 looks

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24-09-2004
  119
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Challenging the Pros

They may be trend-setters and editorial darlings, but like Balenciaga's high-waisted jeans, layering--esp. with tweed--rarely look good on real bodies.



Prada set trends by channelling menswear and clashing prints, but with the ensemble of a fur-collared tweed coat with a skinny-belted vest and a rainbow-print below-the-knee skirt Miuccia goes overboard. Tweed is beautiful in a tricky way--so cozy, it makes you look a little heavy. Compounded by the similar-colored vest--with another shirt underneath, no less--the top now has three layers of collars (if you count the fur) and no trace of a feminine shape. Prada's attempt at diluting the masculinity of the top-half with a girly, fuschia skirt is not exactly successful either--below-the-knee is a notoriously difficult length to pull off.



I am all for tweedy officewear but Dolce & Gabbama makes me think twice. While there are many things to love about their three-piece skirt suit--the muted gray, the Missoni-esque weaving, the gloves and the nod to elegance... Again, something about the shape is amiss and creates the illusion of wide hips, even on the runway model. In addition, even though Dolce does not do straight-up elegance and is typically quite successful at inserting their trademark Sisilianess into conventional suits, the accessories (shades, stocking, red t-straps, and that attitude) belong to a streetwalker more than on the runway.



Pheobe Philo's presentation for Chloe FW 04 is her most individualistic and whimsical to date. The timely emphasis on the oversized poncho, plaid pants, knit sweater coats, and the revival of the colors green and camel made the show one of Paris' highlights, and the decidedly un-Hollywood pastel gowns with black stripes have earned steady approval despite initial critical skepticism. Still, the show's second exit (picture above) looks unfalteringly strange. It has all the right elements: pastel green button-up, rich chocolate brown, loose-fitting slacks, and open-toe heels as an accent of femininity. The look is part baby-doll and part menswear, which make for an intriguing contradiction. Not sure if it is the stylist's fault or whatnot, but the end result is unappealing. Plus, do you really want to wear two belts at one time?



There are two sources of inspiration for Marc Jacobs: his grandma's closet and a baby room. That is the only way to explain the dichotomy of his design aesthetic: he is either so unabashedly retro that, with a straw hat, his thousand-dollar floral dresses would look unfittingly fitting on a gardener, or so desperate to prolong youth that he puts oversized buttons on everything (from coats to boots). His penchant for granny/baby chic manifests itself on the cream-colored coat with oversize buttons and fur collars and cuffs. And lest not get started on the high-waisted pencil skirt. The whole looks is amorphous, and Polina looks so confused walking down the runway wearing it.

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24-09-2004
  120
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Girls Just Want to Have Fun
Models: Elise Crombez & Anne Marie & Valentina
Photographer: Mario Sorrenti

Deviating from fall's favored theme of tweedy elegance and retro glamour, in what is quite an uncharacteristic move, this editorial celebrates seasonal eccentricity. Specify no dress code. Leave functionality at the door. Right now, what floats our boat are sparkles, whites, cropped pants, and showing some skin before it gets seriously cold.


Opening page: Chanel


Left: Dolce & Gabbana
Right: Stella McCartney

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