Vogue Hommes Japan issue5 FW2010 "With Night Comes The Darkness"
Photographer: Mariano Vivanco Styling: Nicola Formichetti Models: Aric Wiser, Evan Santoro, Joshua Lovrin, Jordan Coutler, Tom Lander, Chris Garbushian & Christopher Landon
Photographer Mariano Vivanco publishes a volume of beautiful men wearing Dolce & Gabbana underwear
He photographed football players in the locker room in their underwear, and Italy's champion swimmers by the pool in their swimming trunks. Before that, he got the massive rugby players from French championship teams to pose for him in the Les Dieux du Stade fetish-calendar in 2007. Now, fashion photographer Mariano Vivanco is printing Uomini (Rizzoli): a refined volume dedicated once again to the statuary beauty of the male body. This time, fifty or so of the world's best-known models pose before his lens. Such as David Gandy (the subject of an entire calendar in the past), Noah Mills, Antonio Navas, Miguel Iglesias and Tony Ward, his subject in the last section of the book. Different kinds of male beauty, with a lowest common denominator: Dolce & Gabbana underwear. The brand and the volume close the celebrations of the twenty-year anniversary of men's fashion in the best possible way. We put a few questions to the photographer, originally from Lima (Peru) and now disputed by magazines such as Dazed & Confused, Vogue Nippon, Vogue Homme Nippon, Numéro, Another Magazine, GQ Italy, L'Uomo Vogue, 10 and 10 Man.
Vogue: Is nudity still an issue for male models?
M. Vivanco: Yes, it's an issue for absolutely everybody! understandably... But luckily for me most of them were professional and cool
Vogue: Even for Tony Ward, who's been portrayed naked many times in the past, nudity remains an issue?
M. Vivanco: Tony loves being naked.... it seems!
Vogue: Who has the most inspiring body?
M. Vivanco: It is all open to interpretation. It's a book for the people, for the public. That is why I tried to include as many types of male physiques.
Vogue: Even "curvy", "black" etc...?
M. Vivanco: Absolutely!!!
Vogue: Female nudity sells. Does male nudity sell as well?
M. Vivanco: Yes, I think it does... And it has for the last 30 years or so... It's not as common, but for sure we all respond to a great body!
Vogue: Don't you think it can be disturbing for a man to see a naked man on advertising today?
M. Vivanco: Well it depends, full frontal nudity in advertising is not the norm even with female bodies... a nude man's torso (and sometimes legs and backs) have been used for such iconic imagery such as Kouros, Calvin Klein, and more recently Marc Jacobs. I think there is a new sense of camaraderie in the modern day male! Times are moving on and taste is (as it will always be) subjective!
Vogue: Let's speak about sexual innuendos... your naked men are sexy, but cool and elegant. Are you tempted by doing something more explicit... Terry Richardson style?
M. Vivanco: No, for now I am not tempted. I don't like crude images
Vogue: Is there any Italian model in your book?
M. Vivanco: Andrea Preti - but his head got cut off
Vogue: What about David Gandy?
M. Vivanco: He did not get naked this time, like he did in the calendar 2 years ago!
Vogue: So what is the fil rouge in this book, in terms of feelings?
M. Vivanco: I really think is about male brotherhood and camaraderie.
Published: 12/03/2010 in vogue.it
Dolce&Gabbana and a new book on male bodies. Swide asked your questions via Facebook to the author of these shots, Mariano Vivanco. Here are his answers.
Mariano Vivanco is on, the new book UOMINI is about to be released with Rizzoli Publisher. Masculine archetypes, modern Adonis, the hero, the soldier, and the sportsman. A corollary to Dolce&Gabbana Men’s 20th Anniversary in black and white: perfect bodies and tensed muscles. A particular éloge to Tony Ward on the last section.
You met the photographer Mariano Vivanco via Swide's Facebook page, here is a selection of the questions you asked and Mariano Vivanco’s answers.
Luigi Pellegrino: Some photographers go to the shows, some pay little attention… How interested are you in the fashion weeks?
MV: I like this question. I love fashion and all things associated with it, so yes I pay a lot of attention to the new fashions. It is hard with my schedule to make it to the shows but I always see them online as soon as they happen. Sometimes fashion weeks feel like a meat market with bad energy. Having said that, a good fashion show is Everything! The new collections, the amazing point of view of the designers, the models, the music, the adrenalin…. Our industry is heading into a great new phase!
Sandra Nikoko: What’s your biggest dream in your career path?
MV:To always get that natural high when I am taking a picture… oh yes, and to have a one man show at the MOMA.
Andrea Danese: What’s a source of constant inspiration for you?
MV: I have many, the street, music, the Internet, but I guess a reoccurring source of inspiration is old Hollywood films.
William Guba: Men Without Ties... Avedon or Vivanco at his best?
MV: I am trying to further interpret the second part of the question; is Uomini me at my best? For now, at this point of my career, maybe. Have not thought about it, you tell me! I did put all my hear and soul on this project and often thought and hoped of the viewers enjoying the images while I shot them.
Luigi Pellegrino: I’ve seen the full editorial in HERCULES. We are raised to believe that women’s bodies sell products, but when you apply that same notion to a male, you are met with some controversy. Do you think that still applies? Or have you also noticed the increasing presence of male nudity in today’s editorials?
MV: Yes, I have noticed, I think its all great, kind of like a new Renaissance. For a long time men’s bodies have been kind of a taboo subject. Mainly because for hundreds of years we’ve been dominated by the archival heterosexual male. Today’s world is a lot more diverse. I find the “Metrosexual” male of last decade has moved on to an even more open-minded man this decade. I feel men (and women) want to see other men’s bodies and not that ashamed of it. Look for example the growing craze of health and gym culture… can you imagine that in the 60’s or 70’s? There is also an increasingly intimate and strong sense of camaraderie between men in the sports field and in the locker rooms. I’ve noticed this through my work I did for the Dieux Du Stade calendar and all my work for the Dolce&Gabbana soccer books.
Stefano Paleari: Who is your favourite model to shoot?
MV: Which ever model is right for the job! There have been times I’ve been proposed more famous models, but if I believe in someone and that model is right for the job, I will always take the chance.
Yaya Pink: How would describe yourself in three words?
MV: Happy, honest, direct. My Friend Mary Fellowes, who is sitting next to me in this flight says; entertaining, passionate and mercurial. My friend model Jake Davies just said; fantastic, amazing and fun. My first assistant Phillip Gutman said; passionate, spontaneous and man of conviction.
Caramella senza zucchero: How much does your life experience affect your work?
MV: 100% !!, It all comes out in the wash, as they say.
Davide Floris: Which is the work that you are most proud of?
MV: All of it. My work in the National Portrait Gallery and my latest book for Dolce&Gabbana are certainly highlights.
Liana Soulie: If you could travel backwards in time, where would you go to and what would you change?
MV: I would not change anything, because changing the smallest thing could have repercussions. I honestly used to think that even when I was a little kid as young as 5, and had crazy thoughts that if we even killed a worm 5 million years ago, life might not be as it is today. But the one thing I would love to do would be to see or meet the real Cleopatra Queen of Egypt.
Ivan Guerrero: Without mentioning beauty and passion, what are the top 3 qualities you admire in a man? Why?
MV: Honesty, confidence and humility. Because if a man is not honest you are ****ed, if he is not confident he wont get ****ed and if he is not humble, I don’t want to **** with him!