Anna Sui F/W 13.14
Makeup: Pat McGrath
February 14, 2013 A Sixties Beauty at Anna Sui
By Jayme Cyk
New Wave French films from the Sixties set the scene at Anna Sui.
“The main inspiration is a strong face,” said Pat McGrath for Cover Girl. Creating a Sixties cat eye, she applied a black pencil along the eyelid. She exaggerated the graphic shape by increasing the width and leaving the tip about a half-inch from the brow. On the bottom lash line, she again used a black pencil to generate a dotted line. “Looking at the colors in the collection, they were very rich,” said McGrath. “Anna wanted a monochromatic face.” To top off the lip, McGrath applied a blush-colored gloss.
“We found a picture of Catherine Deneuve from the Sixties,” said Garren of Garren New York Salon. “She used to pull her hair up into a ponytail, then she would tease it and then she would flip it. So we said how do we want to do this differently?” Pulling the hair back into a ponytail and rolling it under into a big bouffant was Garren’s interpretation of Deneuve’s look. “It looks fresh and young,” said Garren, “and it gives it that Sixties vibe.” The girls with shorter hair were given full frontal bangs and hair was teased at the crown.
To finish, nails were completed with a golden glitter shade from Anna Sui’s cosmetic line.
Jil Sander F/W 13.14 Makeup: Pat McGrath Hair: Guido Palau
Beauty Gone Graphic, Backstage At Jil Sander
February 23, 2013
“Jil Sander is a modern-thinking designer,” Guido Palau pointed out backstage at Sander’s Fall show—just her second womenswear collection since returning to her namesake brand last year. As a result, it’s almost unheard of to find an inspiration board, littered with referential images of icons of yesteryear, backstage at one of the arch-minimalist’s presentations, which often leaves Palau with the more open-ended task of interpreting Sander’s “pure, simple aesthetic” into a corresponding hair look.
This season, he went with a graphic ponytail, adding color-matched extensions to models’ manes to create a uniform length that swept the mid-back. Layering generous amounts of Redken Hardwear 16 Super Strong Gel in panels from the hairline to the nape of the neck, Palau gathered lengths with an elastic that he wrapped with a flattened section of hair. “You don’t want it to dry,” he explained of the technique that ensured strands were saturated to create a sleek, wet texture.
Pat McGrath used the opportunity to play with contours and shadow, keeping skin fresh and beautiful while creating an innovative eye shape in the process. “It’s literally in the socket and pulled out,” the makeup maestro explained of the warm gray cream pigment she brushed across the crease in a crescent shape that came to a soft point and then rejoined the outer corner of the eye. “Every girl is tailored,” McGrath elaborated, explaining that lids were primed if necessary to ensure that the neutral stroke of shadow showed up, although she erred on the side of caution to prevent an overly light, sixties effect. Taking down lips with a touch of concealer, McGrath curled lashes and left them bare while adding strength to the brows to effectively frame the face.
Sophia Loren And A “Crowning” Achievement In Beauty, Backstage At Dolce & Gabbana
February 25, 2013
There are few designers who are as unwaveringly loyal to their core house codes as Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, and like clockwork, their twist on classic Italian glamour was very much on view for Fall. “They don’t need to reinvent [their woman] every season, because they really understand how a woman likes to look,” Guido Palau said backstage. “They bring back all the little tricks to beauty that in years gone by we’ve thrown away,” he continued, working on a slightly deconstructed updo.
“It’s all things that really flatter,” Palau explained of the style’s subtleties while prepping hair with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam mousse and its Quick Tease 15 Backcombing Finishing Spray, which he spritzed onto the crown before adding a bit of height. Creating deliberately short center parts, Palau gathered two front sections that he crisscrossed in the back of the head as he swept up lengths into something of a free-form twist-turned-chignon. “It’s as if they did it themselves,” he suggested of the look, which was kept deliberately flat to create a specific silhouette. “If you have volume up top and with the bun, they fight each other,” Palau pointed out, affixing eighteen bejeweled, Byzantine-inspired crowns to the heads of select models, including Kate King, Bette Franke, Karlie Kloss, and Jasmine Tookes.
Pat McGrath got the same brief as Palau—which included nods to the gilded mosaic tiles in Sicily’s Cathedral of Monreale that were reproduced on a series of dresses—as well as the mention of Mr. Dolce and Mr. Gabbana’s “favorite” actress, Sophia Loren. The beauty icon’s face was pinned up all over the makeup area, her signature crimson lips and black cat-eye serving as the ultimate inspiration for McGrath’s own interpretation of the classic combo. “It’s quite different because there’s no highlight, no hint of blush, no contour, but it’s still very effective,” the makeup artist explained of complexions that were kept purposefully powdered and velvety with Dolce & Gabbana’s new Perfect Matte Liquid Foundation, rather than kissed with hints of pink and apricot blush, as is often customary here. Coating the inner rims of eyes with its Crayon Intense Eyeliner in Black, before drawing on thick flicks with its liquid Glam Liner in Black Intense, McGrath treated lashes to multiple swipes of Dolce & Gabbana Intenseyes Mascara in Black. Then she started in on those mouths, which were built more than they were painted. Covering the entire lip surface with Dolce’s Precision Lipliner in Ruby, McGrath blended a mix of its Classic Cream Lipstick in Ultra and Amethyst, thus fashioning a berry-tinged scarlet shade that she subsequently blotted and powdered for a flat finish. “It’s a real process,” she joked of the technique, although if ever the “anything worth doing, is worth doing right” adage applied, it’d certainly be here.
This woman truly never fails at what she does. She always takes into consideration a designers idea and brings it to life, never dull, never tired, never boring. Pat is the woman who singlehandedly started my love for makeup and its artistry.
__________________ Roberta Narciso.Vanessa Axente.Maria Borges.Caterina Ravaglia.Valerija Kelava.Nyasha Matonhodze.Juana Burga.Marihenny Rivera.Tabea Weyrauch. Julia Nobis