Trans(photographique) 2008, Lille : Fashion and Photography, w/ Karl Lagerfeld... - the Fashion Spot
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Trans(photographique) 2008, Lille : Fashion and Photography, w/ Karl Lagerfeld...
This year Lille's manifestation is about fashion and photography ...
with Karl Lagerfeld as the main guest ...
from May, 15th to June, 29th in Lille.

Fashion and Photography, Curator Olivier Spillebout

Fashion & Photography… what a lovely match! Just like last year with cinema, the 2008 edition illustrates the whole links between these two universes.
Then we do not offer just a set of themes around “Fashion photography” but more widely we propose to explore the “connections with the cloth”.

True to its general-interest character, the programming proposes a wide range of connections between Fashion and Photography, presenting pictures from the designers’ world or others much further away, such as when photographs illustrate our dress code or ceremonial.

2008 will be marked by a prestigious partnership with PHOTO magazine, a reference for many artists, amateurs as well as professionals. We will pay a tribute to this magazine with an exhibition in Tri Postal of the most beautiful covers by the greatest photographers and of the greatest amateur photo contest in the world.
It rocked my first loves with photography and I am so very happy that Eric Colmet Dâage hosts today the Transphotographiques in its pages.

We renew with the tradition by greeting a guest of honour who is the highlight of the festival. Who but Karl Lagerfeld could embody these two universes, Fashion and Photography? He certainly is a leading light in the world of Fashion. But if everyone knows his work as a designer, he is little known by the general public as a photographer.
With a substantial exhibition, on almost two levels in Tri Postal, it’s a lot of his intimacy that we share with Karl Lagerfeld, years of collaboration with a top model, Brad Kroenig, and a designer, gone behind the lens.

We open a more historical chapter in Maison de la Photographie with a series of 20 pictures, loaned by Gallery Baudoin Lebon, of a photographer who is considered as the first Fashion photographer, Baron Adolphe de Meyer. In the 20’s he worked with prestigious magazines, still famous nowadays, such as Vanity Fair or Vogue. These magazines have always been on the side of the photographical reproduction of the designers creations, which prove that Fashion and Photography are linked tight.
For over 10 years, Peter Knapp was the Art Director of the weekly magazine ELLE. Then, more than a photographer, he presents us his vision of an “A.D.” through this exhibition in Colysée, Maison Folie of Lambersart. Twenty years of his work, from the 60’s to the 80’s, are exhibited here. Other parts of the festival’s programming are reflected in these photos, for instance that Peter Knapp series on Karl Lagerfeld’s couture.
One more vision, particularly strong and poetic: the American photographer‘s, David Seidner.
This large exhibition is offered by Jean-Luc Monterosso and is the first retrospective since the photographer died 8 years ago.
As a matter of interest, before he died David Seidner has donated the greatest part of his work to the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, and Jean-Luc Monterosso, its director, wished since then to pay him a tribute. Now, with this retrospective shown in Palais des Beaux-Arts in Lille, and these series of Fashion photos, nudes, portraits and historicals, fruit of years of association with Yves Saint-Laurent and Pierre Bergé, it’s done.

Jeanloup Sieff is worshiped by the world of Fashion, famous for his shocking pictures, and particularly Yves Saint-Laurent’s nude. “64+4”, suggested by Barbara Rix-Sieff and Valerie Servant, presents unreleased pictures of the photographer in which lies his genius for approaching Fashion photography.
We give Gallery Baudoin Lebon Carte Blanche and they present the exhibition “Réflecteur – le sujet devient auteur d’image”. Former models become photographers deliver their very personal and original vision of picture, honed by their own background.
The Transphotographiques offers its walls to the digital pictures rewarded by the Arcimboldo prize. Picturing the first ten years of life of this visionary prize, one of the first ever to value the digital creation, this retrospective allows us to discover or rediscover the inventiveness of the prize-winners, some famous – Orlan, Catherine Ikam -, others still young photographers.
The conclave room of Palais Rihour hosts an unreleased work of Charles Fréger, “Hereros”. We are far from what we call Fashion photography here, and there was no evidence his work should be part of this very edition. Nevertheless, after the “Uniforme” series, “Hereros” confirms how and how much cultural or social communities dress, get themselves up and choose to use clothes as a way to identify oneself or to play a part. As we can guess from the models and the scenery, we are in Namibia. But here clothes display their identities, their sufferings or their history. Then it seems like it is German officers of the early 20th century or Scottish “Royal Highlanders” that appears to us.
With the three Tereza Vlckovà series, exhibited at Hôtel de Région, Tri Postal and Colysée of Lambersart, we are on the borderline between real Fashion works, destined to a magazine and used to presents a designer’s work, and the work as an auteur. The “Little Garden” series reveals a young Czech designer’s creation Ondrej Adamek, whereas the “Twin” series is one of Tereza’s particularly accomplished and personal works. She uses brilliantly the new digital technologies, retouching colours and discarding useless details.
Czech Fashion photography, as Vladimir Birgus says, was for a long time almost inexistent, most of the articles and photos in the press were actually taken from French, British, Italian or American press. These wonderful series of Tereza Vlckovà and designer Ondrej Adamek are a beautiful sample of the new Prague creativeness, published in progressive magazines like Blok.
Tereza Vlckovà has recently received best young female photographer award at Prague Biennale.

Just like in 2007 with cinema, many photographers set up their photos to tell stories.
Clothe or costume, disguise, cloth, is widely used by Elene Usdin, for Fashion magazine or to promote Opera du Rhin. Sometimes she creates the costumes herself, as her imagination and dreams took her. The “Magic Fillette” series is exhibited at Galerie Le Carré. This is the “young creative Fashion photography”, admirably out of step with our usual idea of what is “Fashion photography”.



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In his "One Man Shown", Karl Lagerfeld exhibits more than 300 portraits of ... Brad Koenig

« But since men see more with eyes than soul… »
Fernando Pessoa

A young man – alone, but not lonely. Brad Kroenig has no secrets for the camera. He is completely present and possesses a changeable, masculine charm. Yet he can also be internally absent and full of unknown intuitions.
He moves sleekly through this world of pictures, appearing almost more liberated when undressed than when clothed. Stefan George would have called him an “idealised model of humanity”.
From mythology to modernity is only a small step for Brad. His face and body allow him to express everything perfectly. He “dies” as soon as the spotlight fades, and what remains is the most normal “all American boy” imaginable – from whom we would never have expected all of these transformations.

Karl Lagerfeld

Photo by Karl Lagerfeld

Curator :
Gerhard Steidl

there's Baron de Meyer, as well ...
History looks upon Baron Adolphe de Meyer as the first fashion photographer.
The line of the couturier is suggested within/in hazy atmospheres, transparency effects create an impression of lightness.
As a forerunner of contemporary photography, he begins working the light, and managed to catch transparency and made it a key element of his compositions.
Between 1913 and 1924 Baron Adolphe de Meyer dominates, in a pictorialist style, this movement born in the end of the 19th century which gave photography an artistic side.
As soon as he started he took a partner, more specifically thanks to his collaboration with Vogue and Vanity Fair. He photographs mostly the richest social classes. In 1924 he is dethroned by Edward Steichen, hired by Vogue.

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here are all the exhibitions ...

David Seidner

Collection de la Maison
Européenne de la Photographie

Palais des Beaux-Arts

Tereza Vlckova

Hall de l'Hôtel de Région
Collection du musée des beaux-arts et de la dentelle de Calais
"Surfaces sensibles"

Hospice Comtesse
Charles Fréger
portraits photographiques
et uniformes

Palais Rihour
Elene Usdin
"Magic Fillette"

Galerie Le Carré
Henrike Stahl
"Eins Zwei Drei Schnitt"

Galerie Le Carré
Sabine Pigalle
"Le sixième jour "

Eglise Saint Maurice
Victor Manuel

Maison de l'Architecture
et de la Ville
Francesca Bertolini
"Lieux de mémoire"

Maison de la Photographie
Baron Adolphe
de Meyer
"L'aube de la photographie de

Maison de la Photographie
Exposition collective
sur une proposition
d'Agnès B
"La ville et la modernité, la jeune fille dans la ville"

Jardin de Mode
Exposition collective
"Déjeuner sur l'herbe"

Galerie Hollevout
Hervé Robillard
& Nathalie Grall
Une exposition en duo


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