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04-10-2009
  46
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a.t.'s Avatar
 
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Thaks for the info RG & Pedro !!!
Can't wait to see Willy + Rizzo ED

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04-10-2009
  47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikel View Post
I never unnderstood the whole appeal of 'Buffalo' and I don't see why i't's relevant now.
that's a one very good question.
as for the appeal, i think the main achievement of Buffalo movement is something we're experiencing now - the total democratization of fashion. their work, this insane mixture of haute and low, new and old, 'everything will do' approach was very much about inclusiveness and invention of one's self, translation of it through clothes. i think what they did is showing people fashion can be fun, it can be a playground and a tool, a forum for one's self. it was a wild energy of people who were passionate about what they did but not snobbish. they would let people into this world instead of saying, 'it's too grande here, you can't come'. the energy is what matters - it's what drove this aesthetic, made it work. it was a collective body of work, smth that is very rare in the world of uber-egos the fashion is. it wasn't just Ray Petri and his perspective on women's and men's fashions. it was a whole idea of perception of beauty, of youth, of luxury. these are the main questions the industry gravitates to and Buffalo was very convincing in answering these questions in the context of that time and place.
i think the main reason this aesthetic is relevant now is the whole 80s experience we're going through now. Buffalo was as important part of it as Mugler or Montana. even more so as Ray Petri was one of the first celebrated fashion stylists and he was one of the first men's fashion stylists who really pushed the envelope and made things move forward.
and maybe the reason of why we're getting so much of it lately is that people who were part of it, Naomi and others, they have a totally different status now. they're fashion royalty (forgive me this term), not a tribe of outsiders trying to make it to the top. so maybe having them in a totally different perspective, making them speak of how it all started - that's what is interesting.

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04-10-2009
  48
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He always has the same facial expression or is just me?

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05-10-2009
  49
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yesbook24.com

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rest in peace Lee
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09-10-2009
  50
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Join Date: Oct 2008
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Ph: Willy Vanderperre
Styling: Olivier Rizzo
M: Abiah Hostvedt, Gene Fedorenko, Austin Pierce, Liam Sole, Chris Swoszowski


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MENS Runway Model Showlists - Mens RTW S/S 2015
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09-10-2009
  51
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Some more from Willy's ed


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09-10-2009
  52
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it seems as though the script overshadows what the magazine is about & not so much the models. it drowns them out- the strategic script placement is doing too much.

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14-10-2009
  53
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: ShangHai
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July 19/20, 2009 (part 1)
Photographer: Willy Vanderperre
Stylist: Olivier Rizzo
Hair: Paul Hanlon at Julian Watson Agency
Make-up: Sally Branka at Julian Watson Agency
Models: Clinton Jorgenson at DNA, Aiden Andrews at Ford, Peter Brueder at Future, Albert Kraup at Scoop, Abiah Hostvedt, Liam Solem, Chris Swoszowski, Austin Pierce, Gene Fedorenko all at Red NYC
On-set production: Ziggy Levin at Wild Clover Productions
Photographer assistants: Antoine Breant, Nyra Lang, Ben Dos Remedios
Styling assistants: Shala Rothenberg, Donatella Musco, Eugenie Toroella, Lauren Covey and Justine Siwula
Hair assistants: Tina Outen and Nathan Jasztal
Make-up assistant: Lucy Burt
Production assistants: Tim Wilson, Carlos Alvarez, Andy Biscontini, Tom O'Neil and Bea Hellman
With thanks to Stas Komarovski at d'Touch, Stephanie Jaillet and Stephane Virlogeux at Janvier Paris



Source: steelmachines.wordpress
SPREAD 1:
Wool/silk Jacquard suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted chinos) by Prada s/s 10
SPREAD 2:
Wool pinstriped single breasted sleeveless semi-finished suit jacket (retailored and pressed with lapels in reverse, worn as sports vest) and wool pinstriped semi-finished suit jackt (retailored and pressed, worn as sports jacket with quarter-length sleeves) both by Dior Homme s/s 10
SPREAD 3:
Leather strap belts (worn together as bustier) by Ann Demeulemeester s/s 10; wool suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted slacks) by Yves Saint Laurent s/s 10; silk mesh socks and leather perforated lace-ups by Prada s/s 10
SPREAD 4:
Wool/silk Jacquard suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted chinos), silk sleeveless high-necked jerseys and polo-neck jersey all by Prada s/s 10; cotton sailor's bustier jersey by Jean Paul Gaultier s/s 10
SPREAD 5:
Wool single-breasted sleeveless suit jacket with felted wool lapels, wool/silk sleeveless jacket construction (worn beneath as vest) and wool suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted chinos) all by Dior Homme s/s 10; vintage Chuck Taylor All-Stars by Converse
SPREAD 6:
Wool/silk Jacquard single-breasted hound's-tooth, fishbone and pinstriped suit jackets (retailored and pressed with lapels in reverse, worn as sports jacket with quarter-length sleeves), matching wool/silk suit trousers (retailored and worn as high-waisted chinos) and cotton shirt (with cut-off collar, worn as sports cardigan with quarter-length sleeves) all by Prada s/s 10
SPREAD 7
Wool/silk Jcaquard suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted chinos) and silk sleeveless high-neck jersey both by Prada s/s 10
SPREAD 8
Silk single-breasted suit jacket and silk jacket and silk shirt both by Giorgio Armani s/s 10.
Wool/silk single-breasted suit jacket and silk poloneck jersey both by Prada s/s 10; silk single-breasted suit-jacket (worn as cape) by Giorgio Armani s/s 10
SPREAD 9:
Distressed cotton denim five-pocket jeans (retailored as high-waisted slacks) by Dolce & Gabbana s/s 10
SPREAD 10:
wool multi-zip bomber jacket (worn as cape) by Raf Simons s/s 10; wool single-breasted suit jacket (retailored and pressed with lapele in reverse, worn as sports jacket with quarter-length sleevers) and wool pinstriped suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted slacks) both by Emporio Armani s/s 10; distressed cotton denim shirt (retailored and pressed with collar in reverse, worn as sports cardigan) by Dolce & Gabbana s/s 10; silk sleeveless high-necked jersey, silk mesh socks and leather perforated lace-up shoes all by Prada s/s 10
SPREAD 11:
Cotton sleeveless printed Hawaiian shirt (worn inside out with cut-out flowers) and wool suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted chinos) both by Maison Martin Margiela s/s 10
SPREAD 12:
Wool/silk Jacquard suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted chinos) by Prada s/s 10

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Last edited by sobigsobig; 14-10-2009 at 09:55 PM.
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14-10-2009
  54
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Location: ShangHai
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July 19/20, 2009 (part 2)



Source: steelmachines.wordpress
SPREAD 13:
Wool pinstriped sleeveless single-breasted suit jacket (retailored and pressed with lapels in reverse, worn as sports vest) by Raf Simons s/s 10; wool/silk Jacquard suit jacket (retailored and pressed, worn underneath as sports jacket with quarter-length sleeves), wool/silk Prince of Wales check suit jacket (retailored and pressed, worn as quarter-length sports-sleeves), cotton shirt (worn as sports cardigan with cut-off collar and quarter-length sleeves) by Prada s/s 10
SPREAD 14:
Wool single-breasted suit jacket (retailored and pressed with lapels in reverse, worn as sports jackt with quarter-length sleeves) and matching wool suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted slacks) by Yves Saint Laurent s/s 10; leather strap belts (worn togetger as bustier) by Ann Demeulemeester s/s 10; cotton sleeveless shirt (worn as sports vest with cut-off collar), silk mesh socks and leather perforated lace-up shoes by Prada s/s 10
SPREAD 15:
Wool/silk Jacquard suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted chinos) by Prada s/s 10
SPREAD 16:
Wool pinstriped single-breasted suid jacket (retailored and pressed with lapels in reverse, worn as sports jaclet with quarter-length sleeves), wool single-breasted suit jacket (retailored and pressed with lapels in reverse, worn underneath as sports cardigan) and matching wool suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted chinos) by Lanvin s/s 10; silk poloneck jersey by Prada s/s 10.
Wool single-breasted sleeveless suit jacket (retailored and pressed with lapels in reverse, worn as sports-vest) by Lanvin s/s 10; wool single-breasted suit jacket (retailored and worn as bustier) by Raf Simons s/s 10; silk sleeveless high-necked jersey and wool/silk Jacquard suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted chinos) both by Prada s/s 10
SPREAD 17:
above Silk sleeveless high-necked jersey by Prada s/s 10
below Wool/silk Jacquard suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted chinos) by Prada s/s 10

SPREAD 18:
Wool single-breasted suit jacket (retailored and pressed with lapels in reverse, worn as sports jacket with quarter-length sleeves) and matching wool suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted chinos) both by Jil Sander s/s 10
SPREAD 19:
Silk single-breasted suit jacket (retailored and pressed with lapels in reverse, worn as sports jacket with quarter-length sleeves) by Dolce & Gabbana s/s 10; cotton sports vest and wool/silk perforated suit trousers (retailored and worn as high-waisted slacks) both by Emporio Armani s/s 10; silk mesh socks and leather lace-up shoes by Prada s/s 10
SPREAD 20:
Silk sleeveless high-necked jersey and poloneck jersey (retailored at the back) by Prada s/s 10
SPREAD 21:
Wool single-breasted coat with leather details (retailored and pressed, worn as overcoat) by Louis Vuitton s/s 10; wool/silk Jacquard hound's-tooth suit trousers (retailored as chinos) by Prada s/s 10
SPREAD 22:
Wool single-breasted jacket with leather details (retailored and pressed with lapels in reverse, worn as sports jacket with quarter-length sleeves), wool suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted slacks) and wool single-breasted suit jacket (retailored and pressed with lapels in reverse, worn as sports jacket with quarter-length sleeves) all by Louis Vuitton s/s 10; vintage Chuck Taylor All-Stars by Converse
SPREAD 23:
Wool suit trousers (retailored as high-waisted slacks) and silk sleeveless vest by Calvin Klein s/s 10; cotton vintaga baseball shirt from what Comes Around Goes Around NY

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15-10-2009
  55
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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Posts: 298
woowww amazing Willy!

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17-10-2009
  56
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BIG PREVIEW ...
go and get it !














snaps by berlinrocks - sorry for quality, it's a sunny day, today.

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17-10-2009
  57
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....













same source

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17-10-2009
  58
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...




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17-10-2009
  59
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.....
THE END





same source

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17-10-2009
  60
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REVIEW :

OVERCOATS by Mark Lebon, stld by Luke Day, ft Zane O'Donnel
MILITARY by M.L. and L.D.
PLAID by M.L. and L.D.

Raf Simons menswear campain 8p.

Just what is it like to be a global pop culture pin-up ? by A. McLellan and Nicola Formichetti, ft. Ed W. (14p.)

Collection Family, Buffalo by Jamie Morgan and Mitzi Lorenz (28p.)
Alife, what's it all about ? by A. McLellan and Simon Foxton (8p.)

1984, words by Paul Morley
Judy Blame by J. Teller, words by Jo-Ann Furnis (20p.)

July 19-20 2009, NY by W.V. and O.R. (26p.)
Frillaz, by Nick Knight and Simon Foxton (8p.)

1989, words by Mark Simpson
Talisa Soto: Bufallo girl par excellence, by A. McL. and Nicola Formichetti, words by Edward Helmore
Raf Simons, 15 yrs - words by Jo-Ann Furniss

Buffalo Past, Present, Future by Jamie Morgan and Mitzi Lorenz + Barry Kamen (PAST) / Roger Charity and Nicola Formichetti (PRESENT) / M.Lebon and Nicola Formichetti (FUTURE) - 16p.

The black cowboys of NY by Jim Kranitz, clothing by Adam Kimmel

2009 POPAGANDA, words by Jon Savage
"The models had to have the right spirit [...]", words by Murray Healy

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