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09-11-2011
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The Three Musketeers of Condé Nast Ride Again

NEW YORK — Graydon, Anna and David have their other projects, of course. Graydon Carter, editor in chief of Vanity Fair, has two restaurants, an illustrated children’s book and movie producer credits. Anna Wintour, Vogue editor in chief since 1988, has her three-year-old Fashion’s Nights Out and her fund-raisers for President Obama. New Yorker editor David Remnick is on the board of trustees for The New York Public Library, often writes for his magazine and has his own interest in Obama — his book on the President, “The Bridge: The Life and Rise of Barack Obama,” was released last year.

For the last few years, these three have been targets of some whispered criticism in the media world: How much time do they actually devote to editing their magazines anymore? Are these editors, a combined 55 years into their jobs, starting to get a little bored? Are their best days behind them?

Apparently not. The three are having career years — or at least years that should go down as All-Star seasons on their Hall of Fame plaques. There’s Wintour, who, despite every trend for fashion titles, has proven that her print version of Vogue still has plenty left in the tank. There’s Carter’s Vanity Fair, which, despite slimmer issues, will have its most profitable year ever in 2011. And then there’s Remnick, whose 86-year-old magazine is Condé Nast’s leading force in tablets, a space that the publishing company is placing a big bet on.

In the last two years, as titles have closed and budgets have been slashed, Condé Nast has lost some of its shine, but these three have apparently lost little momentum.

Let’s start with Wintour’s Vogue. Selling a fashion magazine is a bleak business these days. Every major fashion title that does real business at the newsstand is undergoing some degree of crisis. There are double-digit newsstand losses wherever one looks. Glamour, a cash cow for Condé for years, is down a whopping 17 percent through October. Elle, Marie Claire, InStyle and Harper’s Bazaar are, likewise, all down in the double digits, ranging from 10 to 14 percent, according to data available from the Audit Bureau of Circulations.

And then there’s Vogue. The title is up 7 percent through September. That’s roughly 17 percentage points better than the nearest competitor. The magazine was aided by a March Lady Gaga cover but, still, six of its nine covers have sold better this year, according to the ABC (only Harper’s Bazaar comes closest, having sold better for three of its first seven covers through August. Elle, Vogue’s supposed rival for the last few years, meanwhile, is 0-for-8 through August). This isn’t simply because Vogue had a disastrous year last year — it was down 5.5 percent in 2010 compared with 2009, a clip that its competitors would be happy to claim as their own in 2011.

Wintour’s Houdini trick on the newsstand isn’t the magazine’s only success. Behind publisher Susan Plagemann, it is up in advertising by 8 percent through the first three-quarters of the year, the biggest increase among all competitors, which leaves Vogue with the highest ad page total of any fashion magazine.

It certainly doesn’t have to go like this. Wintour’s predecessors — Diana Vreeland and Grace Mirabella — were both unceremoniously sacked by Condé Nast chairman S.I. Newhouse Jr. when the magazine’s sales began to sag, even though both editors had become legends in their own rights (Mirabella found out the news of her firing from a Liz Smith gossip report on Channel 4’s “Live at Five”).

Carter’s Vanity Fair is, likewise, enjoying a surprisingly strong financial year. Even though the magazine will finish the year up 3 percent in ad pages, and its 2011 total of 1,475 pages is a far cry from what the title was achieving just a few years ago, it will bring home all-time record profitability, said a Vanity Fair spokeswoman.

“I think we’ve had a tremendous year, we’ve made a number of new hires and, in terms of advertising, there were periods in which we had more pages, but we just weren’t as profitable,” said Carter, adding that “2008 taught us how to put out the magazine with fewer excesses.”

That was the first year that Condé Nast, like the rest of the media world, finally got tripped up and had to slash 5 percent from its budgets — the next year, McKinsey & Co. consultants came into 4 Times Square and hundreds were laid off.

“It operates more like a business than when I first came,” said Carter of Vanity Fair. “When I first came, we didn’t have budgets. You spent what you needed.”
wwd.com

 
 
09-11-2011
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^Continued
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There’s also an indication that the magazine will get a freshening up: Carter poached Chris Dixon from New York Magazine to become his new design director, the first time in 18 years that Vanity Fair will have a new creative force.

Also bolstering its look, The New Yorker has hired Wyatt Mitchell, the number two in Condé Nast’s tablet design department, to become its first creative director. Mitchell said there are some areas of the print magazine that “need some refreshing” and that will be his first task.

He was also responsible, in part, for The New Yorker’s success on the iPad. Condé Nast has placed an awfully big bet on the tablets in terms of money, people’s time and energy. And if it weren’t for The New Yorker, the publishing company would have an awful lot less to brag about. The New Yorker has a digital circulation of about 210,000, which counts for more than a third of Condé Nast’s entire digital circulation of roughly 600,000 readers. Also, The New Yorker now has 33,502 subscriptions for the iPad, which leads the company, one insider said (and it certainly leads by a wide mile in terms of revenue — subscriptions are sold at $59.99 a year or $5.99 a month; all other titles are sold at much lower price points).

WWD is unit of Fairchild Fashion Media, which is owned by Condé Nast.

One could easily make the argument of: So what? These are legacy titles. The New Yorker, no matter who is editing it, would do extremely well on the iPad. Vogue and Vanity Fair are strong enough titles that they, too, would have plenty of success if someone else came in and ran them.

“Sure, it’s helpful to have a magazine called Vanity Fair or The New Yorker rather than some obscure publication,” said Wintour. “But it’s what the editor makes it. That’s why we’ve all been so fortunate to work for S.I. Newhouse. He understands that and he has such respect for the editors in chief and he believes those are the ones who need to lead the publication rather than any, I don’t know, market research or anything like that.”

The power of the editors is an argument that all three signed up for.

“The history of magazines or even the history of business or just about anything else is filled with examples of institutions or publications you might have thought were eternal,” said Remnick. “But just as it’s possible to make a lot of daring or correct decisions or have talented people at the head of them, you also have the flip side — you have institutions that run out of gas or make terribly ill-advised decisions and they go in the opposite direction. There are no guarantees. The New Yorker was created by two really radically different editors, but over time they created a fantastic foundation. If you suddenly chip away at its notions of accuracy or fairness or do not take present and future technology seriously, you could do tremendous damage very quickly.”

At a moment for magazines when the bottom line is everything, and gesturing toward the future is so significant, all three can point to a victory — successes that suggest that they are doing something greater than maintaining the status quo. And all three editors said, explicitly or not, that’s because of who’s in charge of them.

“You look at the brands that have longevity and nearly always — in whatever business you’re talking about — there’s a dominant force behind them,” said Wintour. “I totally believe — and I’m sure Graydon and David believe this, too — in a benevolent dictatorship, because you have to have a vision, as they both do, and not worry what’s happening to the left or the right of you.”
wwd.com

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11-11-2011
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source | nymag.com

Quote:
W's masthead got another shake-up this week: Armand Limnander, previously the magazine's fashion news and features director, has been promoted to deputy editor, overseeing all written content for the magazine. His appointment comes just as Ted Moncreiff, the magazine's current executive editor, announced that he'll depart at the end of the year to "pursue personal projects," according to WWD (he's staying to finish W’s 40th anniversary book and iPad app, which won't be done until December, apparently). Also departing are senior articles editor Jenny Comita and design director Joseph Logan, according to Limnander, who spoke with us on the phone this morning.

Meanwhile, Maura Egan started her new post as features director on Monday; she previously worked with Limnander and Stefano Tonchi at T. Also, former senior editor Diane Solway has been promoted to arts and culture editor. Limnander said that the magazine, which has gone through a number of changes since Tonchi took over, finally feels settled. "In the past few months it seems like we really have found a strong voice," he said. "The September issue is really the template for how the magazine will look moving forward."

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16-11-2011
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Interview Germany Names Koch as Editor
By Susan Stone

BERLIN - The forthcoming German edition of Interview magazine has named Jörg Koch its editor in chief.

Koch has worked for the Süddeutsch Zeitung, Die Zeit and i-D magazine. He is also the founder of edgy English-language title 032c, and he is to retain his position there as editor in chief and creative director.

The first issue is slated to appear at the end of January 2012.

German Interview's art director will be Koch's 032c colleague Mike Meiré, who is also art director of Garage. Also on board in Berlin as the magazine's fashion director is Klaus Stockhausen, previously fashion director of GQ Germany.

As previously reported, Adriano Sack and Jörg Harlan Rohleder will serve as joint
executive editors.

The team takes over from previously named editor in chief Aliona Doletskya, who remains international editor of Interview and editor in chief of Russian Interview. Fashion director Jo-Ann Furniss and art director Tim McIntyre were initially slated to do double duty on both German and Russian Interview editions, and are now out at both.

The first issue of Russian Interview is to make its debut on Nov. 25.
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21-11-2011
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Carine Roitfeld Talks Kate Middleton, Aging, and Her New Magazine

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It’s looking like a slow news day with the Versace for H&M madness subsiding (or at least shifting to eBay) and Thanksgiving coming up, so we were psyched to find this Carine Roitfeld interview with the UK’s Guardian, published over the weekend. It’s another piece timed to the release of her new-ish book Irreverent (a lovely holiday gift!), and even though Carine has given tons of interviews to promote Irreverent, she never runs out of witty, charming and hilarious things to say.

In this interview, she advises women to dress their age and never ever borrow from their daughters closets:

As you get older, you must never share your wardrobe with your daughter. Never ever. You will never look beautiful in a jean jacket and a mini-skirt, even if you have a beautiful body. You have to wear something for your age or you will look really ridiculous. There are too many 50-year-olds dressing as 20-year-olds. You have to look every five years at your wardrobe and say: “Is it OK to wear this with my legs? Is it OK to wear sleeveless with my arms?’ Then you have a cull. It’s not nice but you have to do it.
It’s good advice. Click through for more highlights, including Carine’s thoughts on Twilight, her new magazine, and her habit of styling shoots with with scissors and meat.

On whether’s she’s a Twilight fan:

No, not at all, but I did this launch in a Russian nightclub called Rasputin and everything inside is black and red, and I think it was perfect as a theme to be vampires. It was an easy costume for people: for the boys, tuxedos and fake teeth, and for the girls, you just put on black makeup.

On styling shoots with models with scissors and meat, what a shrink might say about it, and her new mag:

Maybe I have to see one! I’m not a nostalgic person: I never look back, I always forget. I was very productive. I did a lot and then I forgot 70% of it, so when I did look back in the archives it was funny to see these themes. For me, when I was a little girl, I loved to cut the meat for my mother, and then I did so many pictures with scissors and blood and cigarettes. Now, with my new magazine [Roitfeld is planning to launch a quarterly English publication next year], I need to find a new recipe or I think people are going to be a bit bored if I go back to the same thing. I’m bored myself. My husband is trying to quit smoking so I’m never going to use a cigarette again in a picture. It’s a new decision.

On being skinny and preferring curvier models:

I don’t smoke and I do eat. I’m skinny because of my dad. It’s true I know a lot of models who keep thin with a cup of coffee and a cigarette but I don’t think it’s wise because I have kids. I try not to show in a picture something that’s not good for them. At Vogue I never took an anorexic girl. I prefer curvy women like Lara Stone. She’s fantastic. Women always are more important for me than the clothes. I never treat a woman as an object, always as a woman, and most of the time the models I use are more voluptuous.

On wearing jeans:

Of course [I wear jeans]! Never while going to Vogue. At the magazine my assistants were wearing jeans; for me, I needed to be different. But I wear them a lot on holidays, and at home I wear a lot of leggings because I do a lot of ballet.

On Kate Middleton:

I think she’s a great looking girl with a good body. She dresses quite well. She wears a lot of English designers, which I think is good.
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Last edited by Pradable; 21-11-2011 at 09:36 AM.
 
22-11-2011
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Naomi Campbell's Column in Interview Russia & Interview Germany

Each month in both editions of the magazine, there will be published in Naomi's column "State of Mind", in which Naomi Campbell will be talking to people from different areas around the world. The first column will appear in the December issue of Russia's Interview at the end of this week.

Naomi will hold regular meetings with prominent personalities to talk heart to heart. "She has made an enormous contribution not only to the development of fashion and art, and charity - his project Fashion for Relief», - said the president of publishing house Bernd Runge Interview: "Her personality and an extensive network of contacts will be essential in supporting the editors in Berlin and Moscow ".

Naomi Campbell: "In a guest editor for the first time I have. I am happy to immerse themselves in the creation of such a reputable journal, the American edition of which has long worked well. I look forward to meetings and interviews with people who passionately love their work, whether it be art, fashion, music or any other creative activity. "
weloveinterview


Last edited by tarsha; 22-11-2011 at 08:47 AM.
 
22-11-2011
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It is one thing to appear on the cover of a magazine and quite another to shape its vision from within. The always versatile Naomi Campbell moves into a new role as Editor at Large of the newly launched Interview Russia & the upcoming Interview Germany. Her column will be revealed in the first issue of Interview Russia, set to hit newsstands November 25th. The magazine debuts with a bang, Leonardo Dicaprio on the cover, Aliona Doletskaya at the helm and nearly 300 pages bursting with fresh content from the worlds of art, cinema and of course fashion.
Here’s what Ms. Campbell herself had to say about the experience. “Being an Editor at Large is a new role for me and I’m very happy to be involved with such a prestigious magazine and one that I’ve worked with over the years. I’m looking forward to meeting and interviewing people who are passionate about what they do and learning about their interests, whether it be art, fashion, music or other creative endeavors.”
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22-11-2011
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It is one thing to appear on the cover of a magazine and quite another to shape its vision from within. The always versatile Naomi Campbell moves into a new role as Editor at Large of the newly launched Interview Russia & the upcoming Interview Germany. Her column will be revealed in the first issue of Interview Russia, set to hit newsstands November 25th. The magazine debuts with a bang, Leonardo Dicaprio on the cover, Aliona Doletskaya at the helm and nearly 300 pages bursting with fresh content from the worlds of art, cinema and of course fashion.
Here’s what Ms. Campbell herself had to say about the experience. “Being an Editor at Large is a new role for me and I’m very happy to be involved with such a prestigious magazine and one that I’ve worked with over the years. I’m looking forward to meeting and interviewing people who are passionate about what they do and learning about their interests, whether it be art, fashion, music or other creative endeavors.”
Bernd Runge, Executive Chairman said: “Naomi is one of the rare personalities who is recognized throughout the world for her tremendous contribution to the fashion and creative world as well as her philanthropic contributions through Fashion For Relief. With her contacts and personality she will give an invaluable support to both editorial teams. I’m very proud that she becomes part of Interview in Berlin and Moscow.”
models

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Last edited by Pradable; 22-11-2011 at 12:01 PM.
 
23-11-2011
  549
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Elle, which ACP is launching with joint venture partner Hearst Magazines International, will hit newsstands in autumn and Women's Fitness at a date to be announced.
theaustralian.com.au

So now there will be an Australian Elle...again

 
29-11-2011
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2012 sees the unveiling of Vogue in the Netherlands. Published by the Dutch division of Gruner & Jahr, under licence, this marks the 19th edition of Vogue worldwide. The magazine will be edited by Karin Swerink (pictured), former Editor of Dutch Glamour who launched the title in 2005. Additionally, Sabine Geurten has replaced Karin as the Editor of the Dutch Glamour. She has previously worked at titles including ELLE, Marie Claire and Grazia.

 
06-12-2011
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Along with Stephen Gan and Marie-Amélie Sauvé, Rotifeld is launching a quarterly print magazine, due next fall.
style.com

Exciting to hear Stephen and Marie-Amélie will be involved with Carine's magazine.

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07-12-2011
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^ Wow that is very exciting.

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07-12-2011
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Kate Reardon, Editor of Condé Nast monthly Tatler, has announced the appointment of Deep Kailey as Fashion Director, with effect January 10. Previously Fashion Editor at Vogue India for four years, Deep has over 10 years experience in fashion editorial, having begun her career on Dazed & Confused as Contributing Fashion Editor; she has also worked as a stylist and consultant.

 
07-12-2011
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some people may know this, but still i think this deserves a post here:

dazed & confuesd put their archive on the exacteditions.com, small preview only(it's free).

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08-12-2011
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Long-awaited archive of American Vogue is already up and you have chance to see 120 years of fashion history ONLY for...$1,575...in a year.

Quote:
For photographers, stylists, small businesses or individuals interested in fashion design. Individual access to the Vogue Archive is $1,575 for a whole year.

Here's the video: http://www.vogue.com/archive/demo

And more details: http://www.vogue.com/archive/about
vogue.com

 
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