The Business of Magazines #4 - Page 13 - the Fashion Spot
 
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2 Weeks Ago
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I believe - long before the internet was ever a thing - she wasn't too successful as the editor of House & Garden.

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I hope Radhika takes VF back to it's literary and culturual roots. VF is not and has never been a fashion magazine. As much as I love a lot of what Carter brought to it, he too often turned VF into a vehicle for bland Hollywood puff pieces. This JLo/ARod cover is a perfect example of that. Tina Brown had a knack for making even the most banal celebrities seem cool. Carter not so much. He seemed more interested in cultivating his own mystique and his annual Oscar party, which will probably be his biggest legacy.


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The future is stupid
 
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lo-res

source | mydigitalcopy

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Derek Blasberg could be an social/entertainment editor i guess...but for me too much annoying and ego....

i second that want to see Fox back to magazines.....

and about the future of Glenda....who knows right? im tired of this empty-version of Bazaar she command....and i used to love HB

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Quote:
Men’s magazines are surprisingly silent on Hollywood’s sexual misconduct

By Post Staff Report
November 27, 2017 | 1:04am

Talk about getting caught with your pants down. Exposés on predatory perv Harvey Weinstein have unleashed a tide of lurid allegations against some of the most powerful men in showbiz and politics, from Kevin Spacey and Charlie Rose to Al Franken and John Conyers. So what do the highest-profile men’s magazines have to say on the subject? Not so much, it turns out.

GQ likes to style itself as a beacon of liberal moral authority, so we had guessed that the December/January issue would suit up for a takedown of the famous predators among us. Instead, Editor-in-Chief Jim Nelson churns out yet another of his pearl-clutching columns about President Trump.

Completely ignoring seamy sex allegations that have engulfed Democrats and Republicans alike, Nelson takes his Chicken Little routine with Trump to a new level. Every morning, “I run to my phone to see if the republic is still standing,” Nelson sweatily confides, “to see if [Trump] has summoned the nukes from North Korea out of their locust sleep.”

Esquire Editor-in-Chief Jay Fielden at least manages not to miss the fact that American males are caught in the middle of an historic reckoning over sexual misconduct. Nevertheless, he elects to dwell not on Weinstein, but on Hugh Hefner. Suffice it to say, a gentleman who reads Esquire might question the propriety of kicking a man in his grave, or even call it cowardly.

But after admitting he pawed and ogled Playboy centerfolds like a “Gollum” when he was 13, Fielden insists that he promptly “grew up,” and has, ever since, been woke to the tribulations of “friends, colleagues, girlfriends, wives, sisters, daughters and mothers” who have suffered at the hands of “adolescent narcissists” like Hefner.

“It’s imperative that open secrets don’t become another excuse for closing our eyes,” Fielden writes in a workmanlike conclusion, finally getting around to the subject of Weinstein. But after reading so many lines about Hefner, as well as deplorable “satyrs” like Wilt Chamberlain and Charlie Sheen who boasted about bedding women by the thousands, you get the impression Fielden is only lately waking up to the finer points of the issue.

Elsewhere, both magazines have pieces on John McCain — painting the US senator in a decidedly independent light. Nevertheless, both also seem to plead, “Look at us — we write about conservatives, too!”

GQ calls Colin Kaepernick “Citizen of the Year,” in an article that’s heavily sympathetic — unaccountably so, some might argue — to the former NFL quarterback who has been all-but-blackballed from the league after jump-starting the kneeling controversy.

We’re guessing one or both of these magazines will eventually get around to in-depth, 3,000-word features on predation in Hollywood and politics. But their current mumbling and stumbling just doesn’t look smart.
Source: NYpost.com

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Isn’t the New York Post owner by Murdoch? So shouldn’t they be talking about the assault within their own environment?!

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With all these massive lay-offs, we should expect a slew of 'insider' tell-alls!

Quote:
Power-hungry Anna Wintour is ‘scaring’ Conde staffers in meetings

By Merle Ginsberg
December 9, 2017 | 5:11pm | Updated

Since its inception in 1994, the Vanity Fair Oscar party, long hosted by Editor-in-Chief Graydon Carter, has become the must-attend bash for Hollywood A-listers. Everyone who’s anyone poses on the red carpet: The night’s big winners inevitably stop by before or after hitting their own studio-hosted affairs; and stars not attending the awards ceremony show up here to watch it on big-screen televisions. The only other annual party that’s as star-studded is the Met Gala in Manhattan.

In 2018, those two events could look more similar than ever, as tongues are wagging that Anna Wintour — editor-in-chief of Vogue, editorial director for Condé Nast and Met Gala host — will helm the VF Oscar party as well. This despite Vanity Fair having a brand-new editor, Radhika Jones, who takes over Monday as Carter steps down after 25 years.

“The minute Graydon said he was leaving, Anna was owning that party,” said one Condé Nast insider. “They’re calling it the Met Gala of the West.”

Sources even speculated that the bash, which is currently held at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts in Beverly Hills, Calif., could morph into “the Condé Nast Oscar party.”

A well-placed insider told The Post that, “nothing has been decided but . . . [Wintour] will be heavily involved.”

Magazine-world sources in both NYC and Los Angeles say that the co-director of Condé Nast’s Talent Group, Jillian Demling (for years, Vogue’s Entertainment Director), will now help corral big names for the event, along with longtime VF West Coast editor Krista Smith.

“There’s no way Anna’s gonna have a brand new editor host that party,” said one New York media insider.

(A spokesperson for Condé Nast told The Post, “Radhika [is] empowered to make all decisions relating to everything from the cover subjects and creative direction, to making the Oscar party and New Establishment Summit her own and deciding who joins or leaves the team. Any assumption to the contrary is uninformed and pernicious.”)

Even so, it’s clear who’s really running the show. Since Wintour joined Condé Nast in 1983, she has steadily worked her way up the ranks, expanding her control and allegedly banishing those who don’t agree with her. And with the Oct. 1 passing of Condé’s longtime president and figurehead, S.I. Newhouse, her reach is mightier than ever.

As the magazine industry suffers in the digital age, with sharply declining ad sales and circulation numbers, Condé Nast — long known for its glamour — has been hit as hard as anyone. In the past two years, the company has shuttered the print editions of Teen Vogue, Lucky, Details and Self and decreased the publishing frequency of GQ, Glamour, Allure and W (although it did launch a quarterly print companion to Goop, Gwyneth Paltrow’s lifestyle Web site, earlier this year). Layoff fears are rampant: WWD reported on Nov. 10 that “[s]ome of the weaker magazines and divisions are expecting [staff] cuts of up to 20 percent.” The goal: to shave $100 million off the budget.

For decades, one of Condé’s legendary operating costs was its payroll for top editors. The Post previously reported that Carter was pulling in $2 million a year, while longtime Glamour Editor-in-Chief Cindi Leive earned $1.25 million.

But since Anna took the reins as Condé’s artistic director in 2013, and editorial director in 2014, many of these pricey, once-revered top figures have left the building. Leive — long said to be rivals with Wintour and, according to one former Condé editor, “Anna’s idea of too square” — just departed Glamour after 29 years with Condé. Margaret Russell, as reported by The Post’s Keith Kelly, was “given the old heave-ho” from Architectural Digest in 2016. Allure’s founding editor, Linda Wells, was said to be fired in 2015. Self Editor-in-Chief Lucy Danziger was given the ax in 2014. In 2013, Klara Glowczewska was let go from Condé Nast Traveler and Brandon Holley was reportedly sacked from Lucky.

Such power vacuums have left room for Wintour to install talent — often acolytes — who have not only saved the company money but are also more easily controlled.

Fashionista reported that “Holley wasn’t on board with Wintour . . . [who] intended to make the shopping magazine more aspirational. Holley wanted to hold onto Lucky’s scrappy, relatable tone and affordable market stories.” So Wintour replaced her with Eva Chen, who had been the beauty director at Wintour’s pet project Teen Vogue. Meanwhile, Teen Vogue founding editor Amy Astley, also the former Beauty Director of Vogue, was tapped to take over at Architectural Digest.

Now, said a former high-placed Condé staffer who worked under Wintour, “All her editors are singing her song. They’re all living in terror of her. She attends almost all meetings, and the editors won’t even speak up, they’re so scared.”

Condé insiders say Wintour often dictates who should write certain stories and which celebrities should — and shouldn’t — be on covers.

“Every cover choice had to be approved by Anna,” said another former Condé employee. “We had gotten approval for an actress to book on a Friday, and then Monday, we were told, ‘[Wintour] no longer wants her.’ This particular actress had been on other Condé Nast covers, but she might be [considered] a little trashy. Meanwhile, we’d had Kardashians on covers!

“So [the booker] had to go back and explain that we no longer wanted this actress. We weren’t allowed to say Anna pulled it, but [the publicists] all know that. We promised the actress another cover. But it never actually came to fruition. Anna had her favorites — like Sienna Miller could get a cover at any time.

“Anna would pull full shoots or say, ‘This model has to get cut out of every image.’ Of course, she had approved all the models [beforehand], but maybe [the model had] changed her hair and Anna hated it. There were lots of stories with 10 different design changes and then we’d wind up killing the story.”

The problem, the ex-employee added, is that, “Every [magazine ends up] looking the same: Vogue-esque.”

The former high-placed staffer agreed, citing the decision to put Gwyneth Paltrow on the cover of Condé Nast Traveler in October 2015: “Travel lovers don’t care about celebs. They care about Istanbul. She’s putting such a stamp on all the mags, outside of VF and the New Yorker, that they all read the same.


“I have the utmost respect for Anna, but if there’s one thing fashion teaches you, it’s one size doesn’t fit all.”

The New Yorker point is an interesting one. That magazine’s editor-in-chief, David Remnick, seems to be one of the only people to whom Wintour listens. In fact, it was he who brought VF’s new editor-in-chief, Jones — whose background spans Time, the Paris Review and the New York Times — to the attention of top brass, Condé CEO Bob Sauerberg previously told The Post.

The former Condé editor believes that Jones “will get 68 percent of VF, and Anna the rest. Anna and [her] team will run the look of the thing completely.”

And Wintour’s warpath is hardly finished. “She wishes [Editor-in-Chief] Stefano Tonchi were out at W,” said the former high-placed staffer. “She’d like to have more control there.” (Other insiders said the two barely speak.)

She also “recently gutted GQ,” said the former high-placed staffer. Jim Moore, the creative director for 20 years, was out as of last week and seven other editorial employees have been let go.

The Post reported on Friday that Condé is considering having one fashion market editor work on Vanity Fair, W and Glamour, rather than each magazine having its own.

Wintour is also said to be the power behind Condé’s branding arm, 23 Stories, where editors help create ads — something that would have been shocking in the past, as editorial and advertising always had a separate church-and-state relationship.

But such is the state of things at the newly penny-pinching Condé. Finances may also be the reason why Wintour’s likely to host the Oscar party.

“It makes sense for Anna to host,” said a source who’s been involved with the VF Oscar party planning for many years. “Graydon’s whole thing was to run [the party] — and Vanity Fair — like his own small private club. That’s really why he’s leaving: This new age isn’t what he signed up for. Now the party’s started making money for Condé Nast because of corporate sponsorship. [Since 2016 a musical portion of the event has been] sponsored by Apple, and agents, publicists and heads of marketing attend.

“Anna did the same thing with the Met Ball . . . It rakes in the dough for the [Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute], which is what the Met needs.”

And, the party-planning source added, “Wintour has proven pull for fashion, entertainment, Wall Street and Silicon Valley stars” — a perfect mix for a Vanity Fair party.

Which isn’t to say it’s not personal for Wintour.

“The fact that Hollywood has overshadowed the fashion world in the media explains why Anna wants that party,” said a longtime glossy magazine editor. “The influence of magazines is dying — it’s all video and mobile, and Hollywood is the content for those things. Publishing and fashion have to rely on entertainment to survive. She’s no dummy.”

A Vanity Fair spokesperson told The Post that Jones “has already held a meeting about the party” before her official start date.

But even if, as another Condé source speculated, Wintour ends up letting Jones take more of a starring role at the event, there will be no question about who’s really holding the puppet’s strings.

“Anna’s running everything there,” said the New York media insider. “And it’s Anna’s way or the highway.”
Source: Nypost.com

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MON
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Yes Anna, wield that power! I love this. It’s not her fault that she was appointed to such position. If they have issues, take it up to the execs. Don’t fault a person who’s just doing her job. And if CN execs think that she’s overstepping, they could simply call her out, the fact that they’re not just goes to show the need for her to actually overstep.

Tonchi leaving W is exactly what’s best for the magazine at this point. Anyway, just seems like Anna is the one who dictated Hillary to be on the cover if the final issue of TV, or they did that to appease her.

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I don't know MON, part of me feel like she's monopolising the entire roster of magazines, and not to their benefit. Spreading her pets across the titles (I mean, Gwyneth Paltrow for CN Traveller, the Kardashians on Glamour and GQ???), PLUS and VF was doing fine without her meddling. I will admit that the new Jones woman will need guidance, but your get what you pay for. Maybe that was the game-plan all along. It will just mean that we can't expect the usual odd cover choices from VF anymore. I am a bit skeptic over the corporate exclusives and scandals VF used to run. Carter for most part always sided with his writers to the extent of landing himself in court. Could we expect the same from Anna? Doubt it, she's a businesswoman first!

How is it that she's doing all this while still editing Vogue? At some point something will have to give....

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I wonder if appointing one person to have such a decision-making monopoly will seem wise in retrospect. It's an uncertain world for magazines, so I can see why any sector might seek assurance by permitting greater degrees of control, but done in this fashion, it might strangle the titles to death.

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