[gius]

Yarns and threads determine the surface quality of a fabric.. How it feels on the skin, how it drapes. Rough, coarse, soft, spongey, light, heavy.. This topic focuses on the different kinds of yarns and also yarn design

from Fabrics for Interiors
by Jack Lenor Larsen
& Jeanne Weeks

[gius]

Stainless Steel mixed with silk from HabuTextiles


The steel gives the silk memory properties.
If you make a crease in the fabric, it will keep its shape.
It is also available as 100% steel yarn, finer than a strand of human hair.

[runner]

chemical yarn knit by LUC
this is totally rigid in this state.


my pic

[runner]

but, mixed with natural fiber, it gets stiff and you can make interesting stuff,
knits tough like canvas for example.
also it cracks like wood and molds to your body.

[runner]

some of the man-made silk have been made of a thread which is triangular in section to get a silky sheen.

but it seems that the updated version is not triangular any more.
if anything, just a shape more closer to a circle,
instead, it's an extremely fine thread,
the one that came out this fall is 1/7500 of a hair, for example.
because some designers are demanding more fabulous drape and airier feel than they can expect from real silk
they need an otherworldly performance rather than low maintenance and a silky look.
hagoromo has to be something ethereal.


these dresses from lanvin S/S 08 are made of Toray's product "sillookduet-μ" that the extrafine circular section is characteristic of.
polyester





catwalking

[gius]

Thanks so much for these new posts, runner!
Very interesting

I read about the chemical yarn in the LUC thread (your posts also)
I am very glad to see it as a picture
Do you think it will fall apart in time?
You wrote that it cracks...
When I make yarn, sometimes I will twist two yarns together. If one breaks, the other yarn will hold it, so the fabric will not fall apart. Maybe this is the same for the chemical yarn fabric

[runner]

you're welcome gius
so far it is unlikely to fall apart.
yes it cracks actually with sounds to leave traces of being worn like the distressing on the denim.
it is meant to age like wood,
since the source of inspiration was the old wooden table.
but LUC is basically reversible or double-faced.
and in this case the cracks grow on one side,
only that side comes to look like the cracked surface of the floor in the pic in post #3.
it's not that they bonded two different kinds of knits together, I mean one side and the other of a knitting.
anyway I think it's tougher than normal sweaters.

[runner]

they made a fabric version too.
this skirt is an example of the pieces made of the fabric.
although it looks as if there was a magic skirt floating, it is standing there.
the fabric will not have as obvious cracks on the surface as the knit.
you'd hear it crack but the traces may not be so visible. or may be even invisible without a loupe.
instead it molds more easily. it is fun.

[purly]

These yarns are fascinating. Where do you buy them? Is it something ordinary consumers can do?

[runner]

they don't sell the luc yarn because it was for their one-off special project.
but I think you can buy the polyester by Toray as cloth. try asking them www.toray.com/contact/index.html
112cm: 1100 yen 1m
148cm: 1300 yen/m





the case in # 5 is about the transition from imitating nature to transcending nature.
but they seem to be still learning from nature.
to take an instance, when they wanted black fabric to look deeper black, the cornea of moth gave them a hint.
it has submicroscopic 凹凸 structure which enables minimum light reflection (apparently this has something to do with the fact moths can fly in poor light).
and they etched minute 凹凸's on the surface of a thread in order to make black (which, as a color, is already the most absorbent of light) look as black as possible.

[runner]

there is a traditional paper named washi, and when washi is made for clothing, it is called kamiko (紙衣.....紙 is paper, 衣 is clothing). clothing items made of kamiko can often be called kamiko too.

it is utilized as a thread,
cut into tape and then twined.
and when a fabric is woven out of the threads, it is called shifu (紙布.....紙 is paper again, and 布 is fabric).
there are two types of shifu available.
one is all woven of kamiko threads,
the other is a mix where the weft is kamiko and the warp is other material like cotton, silk, ramie, etc.
they say both shifu's are excellent in breathability and are washable in a machine.


http://www.e-unica.co.jp/shopping/wa...ko/kamiko.html


the thread




the fabric
all kamiko



kamiko/cotton

[gius]

i made that for one of my projects^
"asajifu"
(linen & kamiko mix)

i read in some part of japan, there is still a group of people who make this fabric by hand
when i made it, it was quite coarse... but mostly because I used a different type of paper. still beautiful

Paper yarn is also popular in Finland
they have a history of it
especially since the war years.
My teacher long time ago showed me a roll of paper fabric. The colour was like cardboard but it was very soft and thick. It felt like suede. It was also machine-washable
And an artist near my job last year, also showed me a roll of shifu she bought in Japan. I think it felt like a crisp linen... a bit stiffer

[gius]

From craftingchaos.com


Her friend Merce introduced her to the idea of using a wide variety of leftover scraps of fibres, yarns and fleece.


Spun them into a single using two bobbins
Wanted to stretch the yardage, so plied them with a fine Peruvian yarn

Since it had bits of yarn, it made it easier to form the whole thing into one yarn. The yarn can act as a 'leader'

[xirja]

Future technical textiles for disco?



From: http://www.arpla.fr/odnm/?p=3348

[runner]

Quote:

Kosuke Tsumura [ MODE less CODE ] 2010.2.20 Sat - 3.20 Sat NANZUKA UNDERGROUND is pleased to present the solo-exhibition by Kosuke Tsumura（1959-）. Kosuke Tsumura was awarded “So-en” prize in 1982, and he is well known as fashion designer, who started his own fashion brand “FINAL HOME” from the Miyake Design Company. His creativity, based on the concept such as “defense”, “survival”, has never stopped just in the field of fashion design, but also it has been regarded widely in the various fields, beyond the border of expression. For example he took part in “The 21st exhibition of Japanese Contemporary Art” in Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo in 1992, where he was awarded in the second prize, “VISION OF THE BODY: FASHION OR INVISIBLE CORSET” in Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo in 1999, “Venetia Biennial Architecture Exhibition” in 2000, and “SAFE DESIGN TAKES ON RISK” in MOMA the Museum of Modern Art, NY in 2005. Tsumura’s multiple creativity, with both elements of Mode and Art, shows us the new possibility for the expression today. For this exhibition, Tsumura shows fabrics, reusing plugs and LAN cables, which were destined to be industrial waste. It is not just because he has been very good at using themes such as “recycling” and ”ecology”. But also classical working techniques with his hands, such as “knitting by hand” and “patchwork” are based on his pure sincerity as artist, who is a fashion designer on the other hand. Tsumura considers about the invisible added value, such as “time” and “techniques”, which is made in the background of handwork. He says, “I consider of the relieved mind by twisting strings each other, not to stop my own creativity by taking it for craft and design.” Tsumura comments for this exhibition as follows: “The surface of the city, where mode melts unclearly and stopped to work, floats in the air wondering to look for warmth in those old days impossible to go back. This is my challenge to make another dreamy code by using affectionate traditional craft-techniques such as “knitting by hand” and “patchwork”, and to put good sleep to the functional monster called “development”, which is flooded with the jungle of mechanical codes, and natural design made of chemical materials. We will have the opening reception with the artist. We look forward to seeing you at the exhibition. Kosuke Tsumura [ MODE less CODE ] Date : 2010.2.20 Sat - 3.20 Sat Place : NANZUKA UNDERGROUND opening hours : Tue-Sat 11am-7pm Opening Reception : 2010.2.20 Sat , 6-8pm

nug.jp/exhi/2010/01/kosuke_tsumura_mode_less_code_1.html
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