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25-10-2006
  16
kem
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if going to fashion school is not an option now , try buying books of pattern drafting to create patterns. one book that i use in fashion school for pattern drafting is by an author called helen joseph armstrong. and try your hand and learning to do flat sketches and croquis for your designs. a good book for illustration is called " 9 Heads " by nancy riegelman. that would help alot. im in my first semester at fashion school in toronto canada and im learning sooooo much. so it is good that you do sew , maybe when you do get the opportunity taking courses towards a diploma might be good. i hope my info helps!!

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25-10-2006
  17
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from experience pattern drafting is quite hard to do without someone there to show you how to do it. I would be lost if i was trying to learn it at home by myself. Im not sure if there is any software out there that would do it for you. But doing it by hand is quite effective. From a basic block you can create anything by moving or removing darts, making things bigger, flaring things out or taking them in.

if you havent got the money or time to go into full education see if you can find a evening class near you, so you can learn the basics then buy a book and im sure you can create any pattern you need.

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25-10-2006
  18
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^I'm very curious to what you mean by it's quite hard to do... You basically need a basic block to form the rest of your designs, and it is just about accurate measurements. After that is where it gets complex maybe (the darts and so on). Is t his what you mean?

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25-10-2006
  19
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Im glad you started this thread, as i said i would help you , but didnt think that the Art/Fashion thread was best for me to post the info.

well........as the above fellow members said, it would be good to buy a book on the subject , as this may be really helpful.
also, if you have a little money ( i know you say you cant afford school, i dont understand how you cant "afford" school....., but thats another story ) and there are thrift stores near you, you can buy old garments and pick them apart to see how the pattermn pieces were made.

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25-10-2006
  20
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also, there are companies like Vogue and Butterick, that make patterns that are sold in certain craft stores, they are not really designer patterns but they are good enough for you to learn the fundamentals.
the most important part though is "training your eye" by this i mean looking at different garments and observing where the seams, darts, pockets and other parts are positioned, understanding what they do, and why they are at the position they are placed. this will help you to understant the principles of fit and proportion which is critical to pattern drafting and fit.
another great thing is, never be afraid to practice and experiment, saas the more you do the more you learn.
i have more to say but this will be enough for now, as i have a couple of things to do before i go to bed.
hope i was of help to you.

Zamb

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25-10-2006
  21
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thank you all so much for your help-hugs and kisses and have a fashionistic day and night

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26-10-2006
  22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gius
^I'm very curious to what you mean by it's quite hard to do... You basically need a basic block to form the rest of your designs, and it is just about accurate measurements. After that is where it gets complex maybe (the darts and so on). Is t his what you mean?
im not calling it impossible but its easier if there is someone to show you how to add or remove darts, move darts and generally do more complicated shapes than just making something longer or shorter or wider for example.

alot of the alterations are very simple to do as they are just an extention of the pattern. If you want to do abit more than just simple patterns then someone showing you will make it alot easier. its not all about the measurements its more about the logic behind it and if your not experienced in clothes making and dont understand the construction of clothes it can make it more difficult to learn. i just supose it depends upon at which level you are at.


and as for basic blocks there is only so many you can store unless you want a block for every bit of clothing possible. for example at the moment i am making a dress and im currently drafting the pattern i've used a basic t-shirt block a basic fitted skirt block put together to form a dress i removed the darts from the skirt block, i then changed the neckline and dropped the back of it, and im flaring out the bottom of the dress to make it into a puffball skirt. which i wouldnt expect someone learning on their own to find easy and the dress shape im going for is very basic.

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26-10-2006
  23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elegance.Is.Refusal.
im not calling it impossible but its easier if there is someone to show you how to add or remove darts, move darts and generally do more complicated shapes than just making something longer or shorter or wider for example.

alot of the alterations are very simple to do as they are just an extention of the pattern. If you want to do abit more than just simple patterns then someone showing you will make it alot easier. its not all about the measurements its more about the logic behind it and if your not experienced in clothes making and dont understand the construction of clothes it can make it more difficult to learn. i just supose it depends upon at which level you are at.


and as for basic blocks there is only so many you can store unless you want a block for every bit of clothing possible. for example at the moment i am making a dress and im currently drafting the pattern i've used a basic t-shirt block a basic fitted skirt block put together to form a dress i removed the darts from the skirt block, i then changed the neckline and dropped the back of it, and im flaring out the bottom of the dress to make it into a puffball skirt. which i wouldnt expect someone learning on their own to find easy and the dress shape im going for is very basic.

i would love to see the dresss...yea maybe i will find someone to teach me... i was going to work with this italian designer but i moved recently and i live an hour from her city --it was great though got to call her up i guess-but good luck to you on your dress

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27-10-2006
  24
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i'll take a picture of the draft im working on so you get an idea of the things you do to it.

its not finised since i had to trace off the lining first then alter it again for the main dress.

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02-11-2006
  25
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how is the dress????im curious tooo find out-anyways great luck in all you do hun!

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04-06-2008
  26
rising star
 
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Pattern Makers
Hey how many of us are there on here? Pattern making is a really important part of fashion design but in my experience the vast majority of pattern makers are older than the average age on this website. Apparently it's not thought of as glamourous or something but I LOVE IT.

Am I the only one?

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05-06-2008
  27
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I loved my pattern making classes. I took a couple digital ones too, I was good at coming up with all kinds of f#cked up ideas. Being a closet math nerd helped too. I just wish I had saved all my files from the damn class.

I want to do more, but I got way too much on my plate now.

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05-06-2008
  28
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I just merged this thread with some related material ... to get it all into one thread.

And reading the previous posts, maybe someone can answer my question, please?

Is a pattern maker different from a pattern cutter? I would think so ... wouldn't a pattern maker create the pattern based on a design given to them by the designer? And a cutter ... just cut? Or are they just different names for the same job?

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Last edited by BetteT; 05-06-2008 at 02:53 PM.
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05-06-2008
  29
rising star
 
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Sorry BetteT, I searched and did see this thread but I started a new one because this thread is a discussion about fashion designers vs pattern makers. I'm not looking for a discussion about that or about what a pattern maker is, I was just trying to see if there are any active members on the forum who are pattern makers. It's okay that you merged it I guess but I fear now anyone who is a pattern maker and has already seen this thread will not bother reading it again and see that I am looking for them.

As for your question, in my experience the terms are used interchangeably...Pattern Cutter tends to be used more in custom menswear and couture dressmaking because they literally cut the pattern out whereas in ready to wear they tend to draft it and a machine cuts it. But they are the same thing. Check out http://www.englishcut.com This is a Savile Row tailor and he uses the term Cutter whereas Kathleen of http://www.fashion-incubator.com uses the term Pattern Maker.


Last edited by rockitgirl; 05-06-2008 at 06:20 PM.
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05-06-2008
  30
front row
 
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From what I hear patternmakers make good money. I read an article on the patternmaker for Calvin Klein, I beleive, and other designers and he made close to $200K a year and said the average pay for a patternmaker is around $150K. The article was also 5 or 6 years old so you can only imagine that the salary has gone up. Patternmakers are in demand, mainly because a lot of designers nowadays only know how to design and not necessarily construction.
I would also think that you would really need to be a hands on person and very precise to be a patternmaker. Innovation and a good sense of design would also count because at times that actual garments ends up being totally different than the sketch. Usually the patternmaker works with the designer and discuss the sketch and then research fabrics and details by themselves. It doesn't sound like an easy job, what job isn't?

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