Casting Directors : Who are they, what do they do, news, etc. - Page 15 - the Fashion Spot
 
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02-03-2017
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Anyone has access to BoF? Would love to see what Maida responded.

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02-03-2017
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^ here you go

Quote:
What Really Happened at the Balenciaga Casting?

James Scully made good on his promise at VOICES to name those who engage in the 'cruel and sadistic' abuse of fashion models, citing an incident at last Sunday's Balenciaga casting. Now one of the accused is firing back.


PARIS, France — At the end of a powerful talk at BoF’s VOICES gathering in December, casting director James Scully offered an ultimatum: if he continued to see evidence of the bullying, cruelty and discrimination rife in fashion's modelling industry, he promised to name and shame the perpetrators publicly on social media.
On Monday, true to his word, Scully became fashion's whistle-blower, taking to Instagram to publicly address an incident at a recent Balenciaga casting at the company's Rue des Sèvres headquarters the previous day. Casting directors Maida Gregori Boina and Rami Fernandes reportedly left more than 150 girls waiting for over three hours in a dark staircase without light as the duo left the building and went to lunch.
The post was shared by hundreds of fashion industry professionals and, at press time, had received more than one thousand comments and seven thousand likes, with several models and other industry insiders including Antoine Arnault, Carolyn Murphy and Joan Smalls voicing their concern.
Balenciaga, which is owned by the French luxury conglomerate Kering, quickly terminated its relationship with Boina and Fernandes on the day of Scully's post, issuing a statement that said the company was “making radical changes to the casting process, including discontinuing the relationship with the current casting agency” and that it had sent “a written apology to the agencies of the models who were affected by this specific situation."
In a separate email to BoF, Balenciaga chief executive Cédric Charbit expressed deep regret at what happened at the Sunday casting session, adding that the company had been “taking this issue seriously for the past two days” and that he had “also reminded [everyone] internally that this is not us and cannot happen again. From now on we will hold casting in our showroom like we always did in the past seasons. Days two and three of the casting (Monday and Tuesday) were aligned with our standards and no issues were reported.“
Now, in an exclusive statement provided to BoF, Maida Gregori Boina has issued a rebuttal, denying Scully’s allegations, which she called "inaccurate and libelous" and shifted the blame to Balenciaga for the poor conditions at the casting.
“It is important to stop the spread of rumours and set the record straight,” Boina wrote via e-mail. “To directly address these accusations, the models did not wait for three hours in the dark, not even one hour. We personally ate our lunch in the casting facility and — without question — we did not lock the models in the stairwell and turn out the lights. That would be completely inhumane. Throughout the entire process, we provided the most comfortable accommodations allowable based on the facilities provided.”
Boina added that over a period of 10 hours they considered approximately 150 models to fill 57 slots, seeing eight models at a time to expedite the process. She also noted that the building’s electricity went out "for a period of time" late Sunday evening — a detail that was confirmed by Charbit — and that the reception area of Balenciaga's headquarters was unavailable and hence models were made to wait on a staircase.
She continued that she was “saddened to be released from the casting without a discussion of what actually took place” and that Balenciaga “provided us with the casting facility, and its senior staff was present and actively involved at all times."
But Scully is sticking to his side of the story — and in an Instagram comment, at least one model, Judith Schiltz, has confirmed that she did wait for three hours in a stairwell at the casting. Speaking to BoF, Scully was keen to add that the casting duo's alleged behaviour fit a wider pattern. “What Maida and Rami did, they have been doing for a long time,” he said. “They are the king and queen of abuse. I’ve heard stories from girls who were left waiting for so long without food or water that they ordered a pizza, and Maida came out and started shouting at them and calling them pigs.”
The duo's pattern of behaviour seems to be corroborated by several comments on Scully’s original Instagram post. Former model Mollie Gondi wrote: “Maida would request me season after season to do the exact same thing. Lock me in a room for 3 hours while everyone panicked, only to never, ever book me. The apology to the agencies to the fashion house is laughable because the agents have known this for years and don’t think twice because they want their girl in the show.”
Scully made clear the Balenciaga incident was only the tip of the iceberg in a modeling industry rife with abuse. However, he believes change is possible in several areas. Along with major brands developing and enforcing clear regulations, he suggested that modelling agencies could refuse to work with those who are known for bad behaviour. “If five agencies stop working with you, your career is over,” he said. “That’s all it takes and there have been some cases of agencies refusing to work with people, which is great.”
“I don’t know where it comes from other than ego and power,” he added. “All of them are competing to be the most powerful, and display egotistical meanness along the way. It is truly rampant in the industry.”
In the same Instagram post, Scully also called out Lanvin for issuing a mandate to model agents not to send non-white models to the casting for its show, information which he learned from three major modelling agencies in Paris: Diva, Women and Next. Via email, a Lanvin spokesperson said to BoF: “These allegations are indeed very serious and completely untrue.”
Lanvin's forty-two look show, held on Wednesday, featured only two models of colour, one of which was Joan Smalls.


The full statement from Maida Gregori Boina issued exclusively to BoF:
“First and foremost, we commend James Scully for raising awareness of the issues of ethnic diversity and the humane treatment of runway models. As a woman of colour, I am a major advocate for ethnic diversity in the industry. As recently as last year, I cast a show exclusively featuring black and ethnic models for an important house in New York. I care deeply about and am committed to the well being of models. We do, however, condemn James for posting inaccurate and libelous remarks regarding Sunday's casting for Balenciaga.
It is important to stop the spread of rumours and set the record straight. At the outset of our seasonal casting, we are provided with the collection’s mood, theme, and direction, which influences the type of models we cast and the production elements of the show, all of which is directed by the designer, stylist and/or fashion house. The pre-casting for Balenciaga took place on the mezzanine level of its Paris headquarters. Balenciaga provided us with the casting facility, and its senior staff was present and actively involved at all times. Over a period of 10 hours, we considered approximately 150 models to fill 57 slots, seeing 8 models at a time to expedite the process. Because the reception area was unavailable, the staircase entrance into the mezzanine was provided to us to line up the models. Unfortunately, the building’s electricity went out for a period of time late Sunday evening, and the maintenance staff was unable to resolve the issue. We then relocated the models to the reception area to continue the casting,
To directly address these accusations, the models did not wait for 3 hours in the dark, not even one hour. We personally ate our lunch in the casting facility and – without question – we did not lock the models in the stairwell and turn out the lights. That would be completely inhumane. Throughout the entire process, we provided the most comfortable accommodations allowable based on the facilities provided.
We applaud Balenciaga’s quick action to issue a statement to the press. At the same time, we are saddened to be released from the casting without a discussion of what actually took place. We are also very concerned that James, as a casting director himself, has intentionally misrepresented the facts for personal career gain without substantiating the story.
There is no question that there continues to be social and racial inequality in the industry. While it is extremely important to raise awareness, it is also necessary to research the source and details of any story to ensure we elevate our cause and make progress. I have witnessed a dramatically improved landscape for model diversity over my 20 years casting for major fashion houses in New York, Paris and Milan, though without question, it is imperative that we continue to raise awareness for equality and fair treatment for all models.”
bof

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02-03-2017
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^ Lol

When you have so many models corroborating what James said...

All I get from that ~response~ is that Ms. Maida's inner mean girl just can't help but seethe through despite all the babble of ~equality and fair treatment~.

Quote:
We are also very concerned that James, as a casting director himself, has intentionally misrepresented the facts for personal career gain without substantiating the story.
Keep that chin tilted very high, girl. <3

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02-03-2017
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I've done a Maida & Rami casting three times I think... in NY and Milan. They were not worse than most other castings and Maida was always personally interested in the girls, asking questions (that's why the waiting time is long, but not that much longer than most other castings during fashionweek). I remember they had chairs in their waiting rooms, which is nog that common...

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02-03-2017
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James Scully, what a stand up guy!!! He has always cast diverse, quality models. Lots of models from his time like chanel iman, jourdan,liu, du juan, lakshmi blew up partly because of him.

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02-03-2017
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Quote:
“provided us with the casting facility, and its senior staff was present and actively involved at all times."
I don't know how it works at Balenciaga cause I've never been there, and when I did rtw I wasn't present in the castings, but this sounds so... true. I was going to say something like this before but since I was not there I didn't want to talk.

I've been present to castings for Haute Couture, and senior designers and even the premières and chefs d'atelier are ALWAYS there. ALWAYS.

So, yeah, it's just the casting people's fault...

And in Haute Couture at least the 'star' stylist is also present in the castings...


Last edited by Creative; 02-03-2017 at 07:41 AM.
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02-03-2017
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if what she is saying is true why would Balenciaga fire her?

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^Well, that's obvious. To put the blame just on them so people think: "Oh, wow, look at how fast they fired these awful people; Kering is such an example!".

Let's not be that naive...

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If this was an unique an isolated incident, I would give them the benefit of the doubt, but Maida & Rami have a well known reputation of doing suff like this, with many models and industry people testifying how awful and unprofessional they are. So yeah, I don't care if it wasn't *technically* all their fault, they had it coming.

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02-03-2017
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Originally Posted by Creative View Post
^Well, that's obvious. To put the blame just on them so people think: "Oh, wow, look at how fast they fired these awful people; Kering is such an example!".

Let's not be that naive...
and Balenciaga has been sending beuatiful flowers bouquets to all the girls who had to wait for the casting.

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02-03-2017
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"As a woman of colour, I am a major advocate for ethnic diversity in the industry. As recently as last year, I cast a show exclusively featuring black and ethnic models for an important house in New York."
What Bull!
For being a woman of colour she sure has a lot of self hate or at least that's what I gathered many years ago. And just because you're a woman of colour doesn't escape your behaviour. You don't get a free pass.
So she cast one show with women of colour; here's a cookie Maida. And no one wants to see a gimmicky show with ALL BLACK models, ALL MIXED-RACE models, ALL ASIAN models or the all to common ALL WHITE models. We want to see a nice balanced show so we can focus on the collection.

And let's be honest if there wasn't so much scrutiny about casting underage models or NOT casting women of colour they would still be doing the same thing.

Maida and Rami are known in the industry for casting all white cast. Booking little to no women of colour. Just by simply going to vogue.com and looking at the shows they've cast over the years says a lot.
Here at the tfs we have known and complained for YEARS. There are also some designers and stylist who are guilty as-well. I'm glad to see Raf Simons has changed.

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02-03-2017
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Her "i'm a woman of color" part is so wrong. So i guess, Azzedine Alaia required to have those whitewashed casts?
I would love for someone to do an interview with him because i have a hard time to understand how he let her have that much power...

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Lol. There's Maida, patting herself on the back for her inclusionism, speaking for Rami and without him, and trying to pin the blame on literally everyone else. On the other side, there's hundreds of actual models, female and male, seasoned and new, who've been thanking Scully for outing them and recounting them experiences in their castings, some of which were present at that very day. Who do you think I'm gonna believe, Maida?

She is right about one thing, though, and it's exactly how Creative states it: how the f*ck do you not know about 150 girls being stuck in a stairwell without light, water or food for god knows how many hours in your casting process? I don't buy it for a second. If they really didn't know, then that's no excuse for their lack of involvement in the casting process. I also find it very telling that they sent their apology letters to their agencies, instead of personally. I have to wonder if some of them wil ever get so much as a fleeting glimpse at that letter... If these agencies, agents and bookers knew all about this, they why did they keep sending them to these castings? As Scully states, "God forbid we'll sacrifice anything for an exclusive".

Also, I'm more than a little grossed out by the fact that Prabal Gurung's ~statement~ show was cast by Maida. So much for equal rights and fighting for liberation and all...

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Originally Posted by dsamg View Post
And from a Creative Director with such a non-white name?! Bizarre.
She's Moroccan, and racism between Arabs and black people is actually very common. Also, major eyeroll at Maida, the "i am a woman of color myself" is such a poor excuse.

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Maida and Rami are just the "scapegoat". The brand itself and the Creative Director are more responsible for the castings and the process than the Casting Directors themselves. Designers always overviews the casting, and when it's done the CD says what she likes or doesn't like about it, she has the final saying, sometimes she even says if she would like a certain girl to open or close...

Maybe they got what they diserve, but Balenciaga goes scot-free...


Last edited by Creative; 02-03-2017 at 04:32 PM.
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