How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Supporting Cast / The ETC's of the Modeling World
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
23-02-2010
  196
fashion elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Gender: homme
Posts: 2,550
I hope we get some good exclusives this year as last season was pretty dire. Prada had bearly any, Jil Sander had none, and Gucci haven't had any since Louise Maselis had to decline.

 
 
23-02-2010
  197
V.I.P.
 
*Bianca*'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Gender: femme
Posts: 25,848
Karmen & Anja were Gucci (semi) exclusives last season. Unless you were talking about new girls.

I'd imagine we can probably lock in Othilia (Russell excl.) and maybe even Kirsi, for Prada exclusives.

__________________
 
23-02-2010
  198
V.I.P.
 
*Bianca*'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Gender: femme
Posts: 25,848
^Oh, and Dasha Sushko from pre-fall ( I don't think she's shown up anywhere yet..).

Hopefully it's not this predictable.

__________________
 
24-02-2010
  199
V.I.P.
 
Bamhutt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: New Zealand
Gender: homme
Posts: 3,694
^I hope so too!
It would be great to have a new girl with no hype and no info show up on an exclusive, it would be much more exciting

 
24-02-2010
  200
V.I.P.
 
agee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Georgia
Gender: femme
Posts: 6,108
Quote:
Originally Posted by helmut.newton View Post
I understand how being an exclusive is beneficial to a models career, but apart from creating buzz, what benefits does a brand have in having exclusives? I mean, I understand why you would want one girl as an exlusive (or two in the case of the Prada/Miu Miu link) but why several girls? What benefit does this have for the brand? I'm so confused by this aspect of it.
Yep, I have the same question, but I don't think there is a definitive answer. To me, the biggest deal with exclusives at this time, is that it is a parlor game for model-philes - the people who enjoy following exclusives and speculating about them, so it benefits those folks for sure. I don't think exclusives have been a great predictor of a model's success, for every season that the designers lock up "the next big things" as exclusives, there are three or four seasons where the models who were tapped as exclusives do no better than their non-exclusive peers.

I guess I don't see any major usefulness of exclusives as it exists today, not that I am losing sleep over their existence. There isn't a romantic angle, it's not like girls are being plucked off the tundra, the Serengeti, or heck even obscure mother agencies in Kiev or Budapest and then flown to New York or Milan to be inspected by Francisco or Miuccia. The major agencies have figured out what Russell Marsh, et. al. like and have stocked their board accordingly. The followers in the media and the blogosphere also know the casting directors and designers' taste and stalk the IMG, Supreme, Next and Marilyn's websites and speculate with a fairly high degree of accuracy.

Also, while the motivation for exclusives vary by designer, I think in Prada's case it was a move to counteract the model-centrism of the supermodel era, and the outcome is has actually been the opposite, a significant chunk of the buzz that Prada gets during the runway and campaign seasons are model related. If Senora Prada truly thinks that the emphasis should be on the clothes and accessories and not the models, then she definitely should stop doing exclusives.

Furthermore, once the exclusives are tapped, what happens next? Yes they tend to have the inside track on getting a campaign, but all the designers have done is given everyone a heads up on who will get the campaign. But then again, non-exclusives get tapped for campaigns all the time. Perhaps I can see the usefulness of exclusive if the designers did a watered down version of what Victoria's Secret does with its Angels - I know it's probably heresy to bring up VS in a discussion about the practices of Givenchy and Prada, but anyhoo, I can see the designer saying these are my models for the next season or two, they will walk in only in my shows, they will be the faces in my campaigns and lookbooks, they will be my showroom models when the major editors and buyers visit, I will try to influence the top editors and photographers to adopt them as muses (of course, a designer would not say this out loud), etc. Another scenario I can see is a designer locking up a model who walks in a lot of shows like Karlie, Kasia or Iris or a blue chip model like Natasha, Natalia, Daria, Anja or Raquel and even then they need to do something very noteworthy with her like have her close wearing a spectacular garment a la Shalom in the Dior origami dress, or some other stunt like Coco dancing at the JPG or the Raquel film at the SS 2010 McQueen show.

Quote:
Originally Posted by helmut.newton View Post
Also I'm not too clear on the idea of having exclusives for Haute Couture. Are we sure these girls are necessarily exclusive? What if they just couldnt book any other shows?
I also don't see the point with HC as is, but I do see potential. I agree that it seems like a number of girls who get exclusives are not in demand girls and why does the designer even care if she walks for other show, I especially wonder about this when the designers book a model as an exclusive and then put her in the middle of the pack when it comes to the order she walks. Dior did this with Chanel Iman in a recent season and I could not figure out why. However, I can see exclusives working quite well if it is part of a theme, e.g., a designer does a geisha theme and locks up all the top Asian girls or locks up a bunch of red heads for a Celtic theme, but again there should be some logic to it, not just because it's there and that is what we've always done.

ETA:
Geez this is a long post!


Last edited by agee; 24-02-2010 at 09:34 AM.
 
24-02-2010
  201
.
 
Faith Akiyama's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NYC
Gender: femme
Posts: 25,534
There is a very practical reason for a brand to have an exclusive girl for the runway show, actually: She won't have to run to the 2930482304 other castings/fittings for other designers during the week and interrupt anything on said brand's own schedule. Prada, for one, is notorious for their long waits and tedious sessions for both castings and fittings, so claiming specific girls ahead of time saves any trouble in possible delays and other unforseen circumstances.

But I definitely agree that the branding potential for the label in terms of an exclusive girl is in murky waters in this era of the industry.


Last edited by Faith Akiyama; 24-02-2010 at 09:51 AM.
 
25-02-2010
  202
V.I.P.
 
*Bianca*'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Gender: femme
Posts: 25,848
Regarding Dasha Sushko
Quote:
Penetrating blue eyes and personality plus are just two of Dasha’s defining qualities. Another new girl with Next Milan who is on exclusive with a major designer, we expect this to just be the first big catwalk appearance of many – Dasha’s allure is impossible to resist!
-models.com

__________________
 
25-02-2010
  203
V.I.P.
 
lanvinray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Gender: homme
Posts: 16,375
yeay! She was on Prada Pre-Fall 2010 as well! Goodluck Dasha

 
27-02-2010
  204
tfs star
 
TommyGirl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Finland
Gender: femme
Posts: 1,638
Do you think/know if Kirsi Pyrhönen was Prada exclusive this season? She appeared at 4 shows in London, and she is almost as fresh as you get, still on the New faces board in her mother agency. So far she hasn`t done anything after Prada, so I´m counting on her to appear at Miu Miu...

 
27-02-2010
  205
V.I.P.
 
lanvinray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Gender: homme
Posts: 16,375
Gucci F/W10.11 Milan

Ella Drake/NEXT


wwd

 
27-02-2010
  206
V.I.P.
 
lanvinray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Gender: homme
Posts: 16,375
Prada F/W10.11 Milan

Samantha Gradoville/IMG (O)(C)


Kirsi Pyrhonen/VIVA


style

 
28-02-2010
  207
V.I.P.
 
TREVOFASHIONISTO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: N.Y.C.
Gender: homme
Posts: 13,959
Ella is gorgeous
i jus love a model with platinum blonde hair
but i never really got into exclusives i prefer to see their
work after then getting all excited for them

__________________
Daria W.Maryna.Natasha.Sasha.Snejana
Malaika.Irene.Mijo.Cindy.Imaan
 
01-03-2010
  208
V.I.P.
 
lanvinray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Gender: homme
Posts: 16,375
1 more for Prada F/W10.11 Milan

Barbara Palvin/IMG


style

 
03-03-2010
  209
fashion elite
 
chuliach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: germany
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,612
According to Place Models Katharina Friedrich was an exclusive for Moschino..

 
03-03-2010
  210
V.I.P.
 
fadedcolours's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Gender: femme
Posts: 6,824
^ well she did another show after that in Milan so...

 
Closed Thread
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
exclusives
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:26 PM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2014 All rights reserved.