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16-02-2013
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Mariacarla, Natasha, Iselin (at Prada), Isabeli (@ Cavalli?), Iris S, Vlada R, Rianne, Toni..it's more probable that these girls book a show as special request imo..


Last edited by AlbertNoir; 16-02-2013 at 04:46 AM.
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16-02-2013
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Lol @ the F/W 2013.14 special request package at d'management Group Milan

Carla Bruni will be booked surely!!!



dmanagementgroup.com

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16-02-2013
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Being on a special request doesn't mean a model will walk a show, it means the girl doesn't do casting and if they got a special request from a certain brand than the agency and the model decide if it's a good one and if it's worth it to walk it. Every season supermodels can be requested but we have to see if they accept it or not, these card doesn't mean ANYTHING because even without this supermodels can walk by special request (For example Carolyn Murphy at Calvin Klein), IMG didn't have "special request card" on their show packages for NY but she walked and for example for F/W 2012 Daria Werbowy was on IMG Paris "special request card" and she didn't walked, so guys what we know for sure is that these girls will only walk if a big designer will ask them to walk their shows for big money!!! Just look at d'management Group Milan special booking, i'm pretty sure 99,9 % if not 100% of them won't walk any shows in Milan

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16-02-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbertNoir View Post
Lol @ the F/W 2013.14 special request package at d'management Group Milan

Carla Bruni will be booked surely!!!



dmanagementgroup.com
I cannot believe she's even listed.

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16-02-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LucaNatashaFan View Post
Being on a special request doesn't mean a model will walk a show, it means the girl doesn't do casting and if they got a special request from a certain brand than the agency and the model decide if it's a good one and if it's worth it to walk it. Every season supermodels can be requested but we have to see if they accept it or not, these card doesn't mean ANYTHING because even without this supermodels can walk by special request (For example Carolyn Murphy at Calvin Klein), IMG didn't have "special request card" on their show packages for NY but she walked and for example for F/W 2012 Daria Werbowy was on IMG Paris "special request card" and she didn't walked, so guys what we know for sure is that these girls will only walk if a big designer will ask them to walk their shows for big money!!! Just look at d'management Group Milan special booking, i'm pretty sure 99,9 % if not 100% of them won't walk any shows in Milan
Totally agreed Luca, I know what's the meaning of special request, but if you compare Women mgmt list to d'management board it's clear that Women mgmt has a more realistic selection of girls! I mean: Natasha, Mariacarla, etc almost all models IN the industry, they're more selective now because they're BIG, but they are relevant in the high fashion magazines scene, ads etc..d'management represents also BIG models like Kate Moss and Naom in Milan, but all that board is more a list of fashion celebrities (I love a big part of them!! Predominantly Eva !! )..


Last edited by AlbertNoir; 16-02-2013 at 05:24 AM.
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16-02-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intern22 View Post
Hopefully you never become a casting director. You're overly analytical. Calling out models for being too short, or silly stuff like shoulders being too wide is what the industry is trying to move away from. Lots of shorter models have been doing good on runway lately. And elza shoulders is not the reason she has slowed down trust me.
No need to be hostile! I'm sure there are a multitude of reasons for Elza (As well as every other model in the industry) to have a slower momentum in terms of her runway career, but ultimately for the stylist - not even the casting director - of a high fashion show, the visual appeal of the "line" as a model moves down the runway in the clothes is an essential element. Unfortunately for this business and its often frivolous nature, even the smallest discrepancy will cause a girl's career to falter, no matter how established they are. Ultimately, I'm really not the one being over analytical (Though the way I worded my post may have made it seem like it was my personal view, I did say "likely"...no opinion on TFS should be taken as gospel) - Elza was one of my favorite girls back during that season, and the shoulder element was at least an observable reason for her decline this season - not counting last season as she was apparently ill. To the high fashion runway industry the body line is a very basic element in determining how clothes will hang and how silhouettes are displayed. It's an unfortunate qualifier, and that leads into a much more encompassing social issue that will forever be up for debate. From my observation over the seasons, the industry is definitely not moving or even trying to move farther away from this kind of criteria, either. Someone mentioned Lily Donaldson in a post above, but she thrived in an era where wider and more athletic frames were much less of an "issue." Nowadays, off the top of my head I can only think of Karmen P. and Sam Rollinson who have thankfully overcome that prejudice. There are simply too many models oversaturating the business every season now, and the more selection a client has, the more picky they will become...

I should also mention that Lily was also one of those who possessed a personality and stunning facial features that appealed to many and made clients want to work with her no matter what back in the day; those are qualities only very select models have - and also a reason some shorter models do succeed on the runway (e.g. Cara D and Kel). And other times, it's simply the luck of the draw - being in the right place at the right time. Due to the oversaturation I mentioned above, it is becoming more difficult for girls debuting in the 2010's to remain runway powerhouses...but perhaps it is slowly becoming a moot point as clients themselves shift into a true digital age - however that is a topic for another thread


Last edited by Faith Akiyama; 16-02-2013 at 08:47 PM.
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16-02-2013
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Model board for Moschino C&C. Blurry unfortunately, but you can make out some of the names/faces -- I see Elena Bartels!

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16-02-2013
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Will Tom Ford be keeping his models exclusive as with last season?

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16-02-2013
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^He's having a proper show so we'll see all the girls. If that's what you mean.

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16-02-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faith Akiyama View Post
No need to be hostile! I'm sure there are a multitude of reasons for Elza (As well as every other model in the industry) to have a slower momentum in terms of her runway career, but ultimately for the stylist - not even the casting director - of a high fashion show, the visual appeal of the "line" as a model moves down the runway in the clothes is an essential element. Unfortunately for this business and its often frivolous nature, even the smallest discrepancy will cause a girl's career to falter, no matter how established they are. Ultimately, I'm really not the one being over analytical (Though the way I worded my post may have made it seem like it was my personal view, I did say "likely"...no opinion on TFS should be taken as gospel) - Elza was one of my favorite girls back during that season, and the shoulder element was at least an observable reason for her decline. To the high fashion runway industry the body line is a very basic element in determining how clothes will hang and how silhouettes are displayed. It's an unfortunate qualifier, and that leads into a much more encompassing social issue that will forever be up for debate. From my observation over the seasons, the industry is definitely not moving or even trying to move farther away from this kind of criteria, either. Someone mentioned Lily Donaldson in a post above, but she thrived in an era where wider and more athletic frames were much less of an "issue." Nowadays, off the top of my head I can only think of Karmen P. and Sam Rollinson who have thankfully overcome that prejudice. There are simply too many models oversaturating the business every season now, and the more selection a client has, the more picky they will become...

I should also mention that Lily was also one of those who possessed a personality and stunning facial features that appealed to many and made clients want to work with her no matter what back in the day; those are qualities only very select models have - and also a reason some shorter models do succeed on the runway (e.g. Cara D and Kel). And other times, it's simply the luck of the draw - being in the right place at the right time. Due to the oversaturation I mentioned above, it is becoming more difficult for girls debuting in the 2010's to remain runway powerhouses...but perhaps it is slowly becoming a moot point as clients themselves shift into a true digital age - however that is a topic for another thread
Unless we have any evidence that multiple clients are complaining about her shoulders then I think it's pretty far fetched theory.
I love Elza but IMG hasn't been doing a great job of keeping momentum with their brand new faces. Yumi might be the exception these next few seasons because she is extremely unique in a sea of models that people are starting to say look a like.

To my understanding, broad shoulders are a wonderful thing for runway and creates create lines and great movement of the clothes. It is known that the ideal silhouette is somewhat of a triangle with the shoulders as the widest point. I know for a fact that narrow shoulders or rounded shoulders are undesirable and it's never seen in any breakthrough model doing the shows.

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16-02-2013
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^Yumi is already walking smaller shows and it's only her second season.
I agree. IMG is not a good agency for new models.

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16-02-2013
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Originally Posted by anlabe32 View Post
^He's having a proper show so we'll see all the girls. If that's what you mean.
I think he's asking if TF is having all of his girls walk his show exclusively for LFW. I sure hope not. London needs as many of the top girls walking all of the big shows as possible to become relevant.

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Originally Posted by theBlueRider View Post
Unless we have any evidence that multiple clients are complaining about her shoulders then I think it's pretty far fetched theory.
I love Elza but IMG hasn't been doing a great job of keeping momentum with their brand new faces. Yumi might be the exception these next few seasons because she is extremely unique in a sea of models that people are starting to say look a like.

To my understanding, broad shoulders are a wonderful thing for runway and creates create lines and great movement of the clothes. It is known that the ideal silhouette is somewhat of a triangle with the shoulders as the widest point. I know for a fact that narrow shoulders or rounded shoulders are undesirable and it's never seen in any breakthrough model doing the shows.
For sure too narrow is not good, either, but this acceptable middle range has become so precise that very few girls now fit the bill. While visually wide shoulders used to be more appealing due to how clothing styles used to be, if you look closely at the head-shoulder area of any of the recent season top newcomers (As well as established runway favorites like Kasia, Sigrid, Julia Nobis, etc.), their proportions in this area nearly all fall into that comfortable middle ground, which is much narrower than what was accepted in the 90's and early 00's when more athletic/sexy frames served as aspirations. I have heard people attribute this shift to designer samples now having narrower and narrower waist/hip measurements and the triangle/hourglass silhouette becoming less favored than the straight-line silhouette (Unless widened shoulders is an intentional element in the collection). So while this would not be the only reason why a model does not do well, it is definitely something for the client to note when the brand is presented with so many options. The same idea applies to overall body proportion (Torso-leg), especially when it involves spring/summer season clothes.

Ultimately, all the proportions and numbers might not even matter. There are several models today who have excelled in the business without the "ideal bodyline," much less stepping on the catwalks at all. It's actually an interesting sign of the industry returning to old days, when runway models and editorial models were very much differentiated entities. Management as you mentioned is definitely another critical ingredient, and thus all we can conclude is that the business continues to be unpredictable...but as humans we all enjoy the element of surprise


Last edited by Faith Akiyama; 16-02-2013 at 03:40 PM.
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16-02-2013
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^^The triangle line is very narrow after the shoulders. Not really a "sexy" frame and very different from hourglass and it just drops after the shoulders. I think Elza is physically fine and I think it's her management. Elza is really not that far from Kasia and not even close to the girls of the 80's, 90's.

Saskia and Lindsey Wixson seem to be keeping up their show momentum and they're closer to hourglass silhouette/very different from everyone else and Elza.

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^We really cannot position Saskia and Lindsey in the same arena as new faces, though - Saskia was never a show girl to begin with (She was one of the ones I was considering when I mentioned show-editorial differentiation), while Lindsey's frame when she first started was much less womanly than today. And with Lindsey her appeal is likely very much about her unique look a la Kel Markey.

But all good and fair enough in regards to Elza - like I said it was just a theory, but it's one that actually does have basis via personal experience and observation. I know she was apparently ill last season - hopefully recovered in full health now - but the two shows in her NY showlist this season were no doubt random, even if it was due to a selectivity decision. I've always thought that Elza's upper frame was very similar to Eniko's, and I know for a fact that this (Rather unfortunate) issue contributed to Eniko's lacking presence on the runway as her career progressed. Kasia, on the other hand, has it all - from the elegant neck down to great ankles. She has always been the ideal runway girl even if she never shot every other Vogue editorial in existence like Eniko used to. All I can say is I hope for a good comeback for Elza when she is ready again, as IMG seems to do very well in that realm. If not on the runway, then hopefully she will still thrive in printwork and shine in front of the camera

And for sure no one these days comes close to the models of older eras, but I do wish things would return to a more womanly visual than one that's too androgynous, which is where most of the "cool" brands in the major markets are headed.


Last edited by Faith Akiyama; 16-02-2013 at 08:45 PM.
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