Model Casting S/S 09

Mr-Dale · 16-09-2008

As every season, this thread is for discussing what you notice in the castings of this season's shows. Any trends in girls perhaps, questions about who cast what or what cast you thought was incredibly amazing or simply bad. What is different in the casts of S/S 09 compared to those of F/W 08.09? Is there really more diversity in color, faces, types of girls? Fire away!

model_mom · 16-09-2008

Wall Street Journal

September 15, 2008, 5:49 pm
Progress Report: Diversity on the Runway

Exactly one year and a day ago, a group of agents, casting directors, editors and designers got together to talk about the alarming lack of ethnic diversity on the runways at New York fashion week. This morning, as construction workers disassembled the tents at Bryant Park, many of the same people reconvened in the basement of the Bryant Park Hotel for a progress report.

Video: Designer Tracy Reese talks about race on the runway.

Bethann Hardison, a former model and agent who has been leading all of the discussions about race in the fashion industry, called the meeting a “report card.” (It is a testament to Ms. Hardison that practically nobody left the room during the discussion; it lasted two-and-a-half hours.)
The verdict? Change is in the air, but the industry still has a long way to go. “I did see a difference,” said casting director Jen Starr. She said agencies have been spending more money scouting for ethnic models because, in a more inclusive environment, it is becoming easier for them to find work. The change has left many young models of color feeling more confident. “It makes you feel good that you’re wanted,” said Joan Smalls, who appeared on the runways of Oscar de la Renta and others, and is currently featured in an ad campaign for the fashion label Ports 1961.
Ms. Hardison urged the crowd to “call out who’s been good and who’s been bad, who’s been naughty and who’s been nice.”

Bethann Hardison. Courtesy: Ms. Hardison.

Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren were praised as “nice.” They set the tone this season in promoting a more diverse vision of beauty, Ms. Hardison said. Mr. de la Renta, who opened and closed his show with a Dominican model named Arlenis Sosa, was an example of a designer “getting engaged with the fashion model again,” said Ms. Hardison, who admired the way all the models put their hands on their hips, tossed their jackets and walked with confidence in an “old school” way.
The “surprise of the week,” Ms. Hardison said, “was the genius of Ralph Lauren.” He used five dark-skinned models—as opposed to two last season—and closed his show with a Somalian model named Ubah. Another black model Mr. Lauren used, named Aminata, was “a great success story this season,” said Ivan Bart, a top agent at IMG Models. She was discovered on the streets of Paris by Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz, but didn’t break through in the American market until this season.
Among those in the “naughty” column was the design house of Badgley Mischka, which used no black models, a move that Ms. Hardison attributed to “ignorance and stubbornness.” A spokesman for Badgley Mischka says that the design house had “second options” on three black models–meaning that another design house already claimed the right of first refusal for the same time slot. Unfortunately, the spokesman said, “we didn’t get them. It was not intentional.”
Kyle Hagler, an agent at IMG Models, remarked that he still received emails from casting directors offering lower fees to black models than to white or Asian models of comparable experience. “If somebody is proposing that someone be paid less than she is worth, I will counter that,” said Mr. Hagler, in a conversation after the meeting. “I think that everybody should be paid according to their experience, not the color of their skin.”
Although IMG’s Mr. Bart said he was pleased with the progress that had been made over the past year “it’s got to go beyond the runways.” Italian Vogue published an all-black issue this summer, but the fashion advertising inside the magazine featured almost entirely white models. “Let’s not forget about the advertising season, and how many of these models are going to translate off the runway and into prestigious campaigns,” Mr. Bart said. –Rachel Dodes

Plato's_Cave · 16-09-2008

I think we saw a positive trend towards a stronger, more grown up ideal in NY. Very nice to see confident, healthy looking young women like Arlenis, Constance, Eniko, Katrin Thormann etc. Of course there were a few extremes in the opposite direction too, but I still felt it was a step forward.

Plato's_Cave · 16-09-2008

Oh, and I want to know what happened to Elsa Sylvan and Malin Ones? It seems neither of them will be walking at all this season. Not sure I'd like to get my suspicions confirmed, but I'm admittedly curious.

Mr-Dale · 17-09-2008

Yes indeed, the trend seems to go towards a more grown up ideal as far as new girls go. In my vision, that is defined as a model with a healthy body, and a face that is maybe more womanly and more desirable. That results in a full face, with defined cheeckbones and possibly a kissable lip. Examples being, Anastasija Kondratjeva, Cato van Ee, Asa Engstrom, Arlenis Sosa Pena, Constance Jablonski and even Laksmi Menon and Viktoriya Sasonkina. I just loooove this movement towards a powerful woman as opposed to a cute or quirky girl (which can be appealing as well, don't get me wrong). Even Eniko Mihalik would fit this description, just because of that killer body and that ever so addictive spark in her eye. Bring on the women

J'ador-DioR · 18-09-2008

Source: Theimagist

Quote:

SS 09 saw New York casting directors actually daring to open up their runways to the floods of fresh faced newcomers this season. It was so much so that for the first time in 4 years at MDC we actually had an over-spill of Top 10 Newcomers, so much so that some girls had to be tentatively earmarked as "European Top 10" contenders.

But will they be top runway contenders in Europe? All those girls who failed to gain visas for entry into the United States, all those hidden beauties and secret weapons squirreled away in hopes of some kind of Prada/Jil Sander/Gucci exclusive represent a second wave of market contenders that will be more likely to dilute, rather than amplify the message out of New York.

In fact esteemed members of The Hiss Squad has been telling me all week, certain casting directors in Milan aim to ignore certain girls that exploded out of NYC, or at least the ones they already consider to be "over-exposed".

Mr-Dale · 18-09-2008

^Woah that is odd....who would be overexposed? Arlenis?! I can't imagine Europe ignoring her, that would be aweful. I can't really think of anyone else being overexposed since no other new girl did THAT ammount of shows.

CharlottefromCA · 18-09-2008

Imogen perhaps? Maybe Anastaija? or Katrin Thorman. Its really strange that some girls EXPLODE in NY and then fizzle in Milan and Paris.. quite unpredictable.

á la Balenciaga · 18-09-2008

anyone know who is the casting director for Prada?

erinclaire86 · 18-09-2008

Has anyone been following Vogue's Model Live show? Three models from IMG (Cato van Ee, Madeline Kragh and Austria ...I've forgotten her last name) are being filmed as they make their way through the four major fashion weeks. They were all pretty popular in New York but so far I've only seen Cato in shows in London. She has been in heaps though!

*Bianca* · 18-09-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by á la Balenciaga

anyone know who is the casting director for Prada?

Russell Marsh.

J'ador-DioR · 19-09-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr-Dale

^Woah that is odd....who would be overexposed? Arlenis?! I can't imagine Europe ignoring her, that would be aweful. I can't really think of anyone else being overexposed since no other new girl did THAT ammount of shows.

Possibly, i took it that TI was talking about the more directional/exclusive shows and the people that cast them. All that comes to mind is Prada/Jil Sander. I can't see Arlenis showing up in either one, anyway.

Talking about casting directors. R. Marsh still casts Jaeger and Christopher Kane in London, right?. Practically all the girls that showed up at those 2 shows were also at Armand Basi. It seems like he's loving Georgie Baddiel and Daul Kim all of a sudden.

I'm also very curious about who casts Rodarte at the moment because the last 2 seasons have been quite stellar.

Angus Munro casts Hilfiger, Preen, M. Williamson, N. Rodriguez (possibly more)...he seems to excel in casting boys more so than girls. His line-up of male models at Daughters by Obedient Sons was amazing

CharlottefromCA · 19-09-2008

Does Munro also cast Calvin Klein?

oxymoron · 19-09-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by CharlottefromCA

Does Munro also cast Calvin Klein?

I think Maida and Rami does Calvin and also Jil Sanders.

Munro also does Pucci.

Who casts for Balenciaga? Thats also one of those highly exclusive shows...

volodina · 19-09-2008

Does anyone know which dates they are casting in Paris?
Like, which date is the last castings, do they cast the last shows of the week during the ongoing fashion week?

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16-09-2008	1
Mr-Dale Unveil Yourself.... Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: The Netherlands Gender: homme Posts: 14,935	Model Casting S/S 09 As every season, this thread is for discussing what you notice in the castings of this season's shows. Any trends in girls perhaps, questions about who cast what or what cast you thought was incredibly amazing or simply bad. What is different in the casts of S/S 09 compared to those of F/W 08.09? Is there really more diversity in color, faces, types of girls? Fire away! __________________ Beauty is the climactic apotheosis of flowing elegance... twitter.com/ErikP87

16-09-2008	2
model_mom V.I.P. Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 15,255	Wall Street Journal September 15, 2008, 5:49 pm Progress Report: Diversity on the Runway Exactly one year and a day ago, a group of agents, casting directors, editors and designers got together to talk about the alarming lack of ethnic diversity on the runways at New York fashion week. This morning, as construction workers disassembled the tents at Bryant Park, many of the same people reconvened in the basement of the Bryant Park Hotel for a progress report. Video: Designer Tracy Reese talks about race on the runway. Bethann Hardison, a former model and agent who has been leading all of the discussions about race in the fashion industry, called the meeting a “report card.” (It is a testament to Ms. Hardison that practically nobody left the room during the discussion; it lasted two-and-a-half hours.) The verdict? Change is in the air, but the industry still has a long way to go. “I did see a difference,” said casting director Jen Starr. She said agencies have been spending more money scouting for ethnic models because, in a more inclusive environment, it is becoming easier for them to find work. The change has left many young models of color feeling more confident. “It makes you feel good that you’re wanted,” said Joan Smalls, who appeared on the runways of Oscar de la Renta and others, and is currently featured in an ad campaign for the fashion label Ports 1961. Ms. Hardison urged the crowd to “call out who’s been good and who’s been bad, who’s been naughty and who’s been nice.” Bethann Hardison. Courtesy: Ms. Hardison. Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren were praised as “nice.” They set the tone this season in promoting a more diverse vision of beauty, Ms. Hardison said. Mr. de la Renta, who opened and closed his show with a Dominican model named Arlenis Sosa, was an example of a designer “getting engaged with the fashion model again,” said Ms. Hardison, who admired the way all the models put their hands on their hips, tossed their jackets and walked with confidence in an “old school” way. The “surprise of the week,” Ms. Hardison said, “was the genius of Ralph Lauren.” He used five dark-skinned models—as opposed to two last season—and closed his show with a Somalian model named Ubah. Another black model Mr. Lauren used, named Aminata, was “a great success story this season,” said Ivan Bart, a top agent at IMG Models. She was discovered on the streets of Paris by Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz, but didn’t break through in the American market until this season. Among those in the “naughty” column was the design house of Badgley Mischka, which used no black models, a move that Ms. Hardison attributed to “ignorance and stubbornness.” A spokesman for Badgley Mischka says that the design house had “second options” on three black models–meaning that another design house already claimed the right of first refusal for the same time slot. Unfortunately, the spokesman said, “we didn’t get them. It was not intentional.” Kyle Hagler, an agent at IMG Models, remarked that he still received emails from casting directors offering lower fees to black models than to white or Asian models of comparable experience. “If somebody is proposing that someone be paid less than she is worth, I will counter that,” said Mr. Hagler, in a conversation after the meeting. “I think that everybody should be paid according to their experience, not the color of their skin.” Although IMG’s Mr. Bart said he was pleased with the progress that had been made over the past year “it’s got to go beyond the runways.” Italian Vogue published an all-black issue this summer, but the fashion advertising inside the magazine featured almost entirely white models. “Let’s not forget about the advertising season, and how many of these models are going to translate off the runway and into prestigious campaigns,” Mr. Bart said. –Rachel Dodes __________________ "Let's stop treating models like greyhounds we plan to shoot after a race. We have to remember we are dealing with real people who have real feelings." - James Scully

16-09-2008	3
Plato's_Cave trendsetter Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,268	I think we saw a positive trend towards a stronger, more grown up ideal in NY. Very nice to see confident, healthy looking young women like Arlenis, Constance, Eniko, Katrin Thormann etc. Of course there were a few extremes in the opposite direction too, but I still felt it was a step forward.

17-09-2008	5
Mr-Dale Unveil Yourself.... Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: The Netherlands Gender: homme Posts: 14,935	Yes indeed, the trend seems to go towards a more grown up ideal as far as new girls go. In my vision, that is defined as a model with a healthy body, and a face that is maybe more womanly and more desirable. That results in a full face, with defined cheeckbones and possibly a kissable lip. Examples being, Anastasija Kondratjeva, Cato van Ee, Asa Engstrom, Arlenis Sosa Pena, Constance Jablonski and even Laksmi Menon and Viktoriya Sasonkina. I just loooove this movement towards a powerful woman as opposed to a cute or quirky girl (which can be appealing as well, don't get me wrong). Even Eniko Mihalik would fit this description, just because of that killer body and that ever so addictive spark in her eye. Bring on the women __________________ Beauty is the climactic apotheosis of flowing elegance... twitter.com/ErikP87

18-09-2008	7
Mr-Dale Unveil Yourself.... Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: The Netherlands Gender: homme Posts: 14,935	^Woah that is odd....who would be overexposed? Arlenis?! I can't imagine Europe ignoring her, that would be aweful. I can't really think of anyone else being overexposed since no other new girl did THAT ammount of shows. __________________ Beauty is the climactic apotheosis of flowing elegance... twitter.com/ErikP87

18-09-2008	8
CharlottefromCA User Friendly Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Lala land Gender: femme Posts: 10,806	Imogen perhaps? Maybe Anastaija? or Katrin Thorman. Its really strange that some girls EXPLODE in NY and then fizzle in Milan and Paris.. quite unpredictable.

18-09-2008	9
á la Balenciaga V.I.P. Join Date: May 2008 Gender: femme Posts: 5,893	anyone know who is the casting director for Prada?

18-09-2008	10
erinclaire86 windowshopping Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Melbourne, Australia Gender: femme Posts: 16	Has anyone been following Vogue's Model Live show? Three models from IMG (Cato van Ee, Madeline Kragh and Austria ...I've forgotten her last name) are being filmed as they make their way through the four major fashion weeks. They were all pretty popular in New York but so far I've only seen Cato in shows in London. She has been in heaps though! __________________ Fashion and style blog - Zoeluca Online photography portfolio

19-09-2008	13
CharlottefromCA User Friendly Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Lala land Gender: femme Posts: 10,806	Does Munro also cast Calvin Klein?

19-09-2008	15
volodina scenester Join Date: Dec 2007 Gender: femme Posts: 83	Does anyone know which dates they are casting in Paris? Like, which date is the last castings, do they cast the last shows of the week during the ongoing fashion week?