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30-09-2012
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^Right! Some girls were even brunettes!!

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30-09-2012
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What's going on with Joan? Has she been shooting or is she just not getting booked? Because if it's the latter, that's disgusting!! There is no way a white model who was ranked number one on MDC would be this invisible!

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30-09-2012
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yeah joan is not raking in the shows you would expect from a freshly minted #1.. not even close. I'm hoping papa karl can help ease some of the disappointment by having her open chanel

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28-11-2012
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what is really strange to me, is that Maida herself is of color, she is not white, but so frequently uses only white models in Jil and Calvin, its sort of strange, and I feel like for some reason she can get away with that rather than if it was a white casting director doing all the casting rather than her and Rami. Because if the casting director was white, people would think it was racial favoritism (if such a thing ever existed). Also I think one of the main reasons Jil Sander didn't excite me much this year, wasn't even because of the clothes it was because all of the models looked the same, all were white and tbh I couldn't get past that. I rarely enjoy shows with all white casts, their is just something so uninclusive about them.

forgive my horrible execution and writing, I'm just venting (?)

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15-02-2013
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Okay I was honestly very disappointed at the fact that there was not a single girl of color (asian, black, latina) at Calvin Klein this season, same with the previous season. It really just dulls down a collection to see the same scared russian/polish/french faces every season. The same goes for Proenza, there was not a single black or latina girl in the cast and considering how many amazing, top-model quality black girls, Grace Mahary, Cora Emmanuel, Maria Borges, Roberta Narciso, etc. There could have been at least one included in the cast, it's so disappointing that casting directors can't seem to look past race when casting shows.

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24-02-2013
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Dolce and Gabbana used to be one of the most diverse shows but they seem to be using less black models..? When they had that 'racist collection' scandal they didn't even use a single black model... bad idea

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24-02-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yendor View Post
Dolce and Gabbana used to be one of the most diverse shows but they seem to be using less black models..? When they had that 'racist collection' scandal they didn't even use a single black model... bad idea
My thoughts exactly, the only girls of color at Dolce were Cora Emmanuel and Jasmine Tookes, the same can be said for Prada, Cora was the only girl of color there as well. I really feel like a show with such a large, typically 70+ cast of models could at least have 5 girls of color, considering there are plenty of girls of color who suit the brand a million times better than some of the mousy, plain, lanky Eastern European girls who walked the show.

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25-02-2013
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interesting article on Jezebel...




Quote:
This season, 151 New York designers' shows were covered by Style.com. Those shows presented 4479 individual women's wear "looks" to buyers and press, representing 4479 opportunities for a model to walk the runway or pose in a presentation. 3706 of those looks, or 82.7%, were this season shown on white models. Asian models nabbed 409, or 9.1% of all the runway looks. Black models were hired for 271, or 6%. Non-white Latina models had 90 looks, or 2%. Models of other races wore 12, or 0.2% of all looks.

Fashion Week's Models Are Getting WhiterThirteen companies Araks, Assembly, Belstaff, Calvin Klein, Elizabeth & James, Gregory Parkinson, J Brand, Jenni Kayne, Juicy Couture, Louise Goldin, Lyn Devon, Threeasfour, and Whit had no models of color at all. The brands Araks, Calvin Klein, Elizabeth & James, and Louise Goldin didn't hire any non-white models last season, either. That means this season, around 9% of all NYFW shows had all-white casts. That's up slightly from last season, when only 6% of shows had only white models. For comparison, in 2007, one-third of NYFW shows were all-white.

Designers that had more racial diversity included 3.1 Phillip Lim, Anna Sui, Badgley Mischka, Costello Tagliapietra, Diane von Furstenberg, J. Crew, Jason Wu, Jeremy Scott, Jonathan Simkhai, Mara Hoffman, Naeem Khan, Nicole Miller, Rebecca Taylor, Suno, Tracy Reese, Yeohlee, and Zac Posen.

This season marks the fifth year that we've collected this information, but I must admit that every time we finish one of these reports I'm left with questions, many of which are the same ones that I wrestled with nine seasons ago. Why does a huge global brand like Calvin Klein, whose multi-tiered business model depends on people from all corners of the globe wanting to see themselves in its logo, always appear to care so little about racial diversity at fashion week? Why does one mass-market contemporary label J. Crew apparently put so much effort into hiring a multi-ethnic cast of models, when others Elizabeth & James, J Brand do not? At the high end, why are Oscar de la Renta's and Diane von Furstenberg's shows so racially diverse, while Michael Kors' and Vera Wang's aren't? Why are some of New York's talented younger designers Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung, Phillip Lim, Zac Posen hiring so many more models of color than their just-as-buzzed-about peers like Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, and Rodarte? Why do so many fashion brands still treat racial diversity as optional, or a matter of taste?

I have a few theories why this season's numbers show NYFW to be a few percentage points less racially diverse than the last two seasons have been. One is that it's the fall season, and we have noted a slight swing from more racial diversity in the casting for the spring shows to less in the fall shows. (Casting directors have told me in the past that there's a belief on the part of some designers that bright spring colors look better on non-white skin tones than fall and winter hues.) The other is simply that a few relatively prominent models of color didn't walk NYFW this season, and with jobs for non-white models being already so scarce, the absence of even a handful of such models has a relatively big impact on the season's overall numbers. Latina models like Mariana Santana and Catalina Llanes, who both walked a bunch of shows last September, didn't do NYFW this season. Nor did the St. Helenian model Rea Triggs, the black models Genesis Vallejo and Senait Gidey, or the North African models Hind Sahli and Hanaa ben Abdesslem, or Tara Gill and Jenny Albright, who are both part Native American, to name a few.

There are many negative effects of the industry's preference for white skin within fashion, it forces models of color to compete against each other for the one or two runway spots that might go to a non-white girl, it provides downward pressure on non-white models' wages, and it makes agencies less willing to invest in models of color, given that fewer opportunities mean a lower lifetime earning potential. And outside the industry because the models who rise to the top of the heap doing runway are the models who go on to do the magazine covers, the cosmetics campaigns, the luxury brand ads, the billboards, and the TV commercials that girls all over the world can't help but grow up consuming it promotes the idea that beauty means having white skin.

As I've written before, the conversation about racial diversity in fashion is a large and complex one, of which data like these are only one small part. It's difficult to quantify a problem like high fashion's demonstrated preference for white skin. Race is a social construct, after all, not a fact. And our "categories" black, Asian, non-white Latina, and what we for lack of a better term call "other" are not perfect. Racial diversity is only one way in which the fashion industry and, by extension, our cultural ideas about what and who gets to be beautiful could stand to broaden. There's also age, sexual orientation, and, most obviously, size. Despite our imperfect methods, we do this census every season because we believe it's helpful to put anecdote and reportage in the context of actual numbers. If we acknowledge that the overwhelming whiteness of fashion's imagery is a problem, then trying to measure that problem can be the first step towards solving it.
Article written by Jenna Sauers.

fashioncopious

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25-02-2013
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The fact that Calvin Klein hasn't booked a single black model in three seasons is scary. One of the biggest shows in New York should never have that kind of white washed cast, it really just gives it a bad name. In my opinion, I don't find their shows exciting at all. Then it's that fact that bothers me as well, why should I have to be surprised to see a black model rather than expecting them? There are more than enough plain, blond, blue-eyed, malnourished Eastern Europeans on the runway.

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25-02-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaars View Post
The fact that Calvin Klein hasn't booked a single black model in three seasons is scary. One of the biggest shows in New York should never have that kind of white washed cast, it really just gives it a bad name. In my opinion, I don't find their shows exciting at all. Then it's that fact that bothers me as well, why should I have to be surprised to see a black model rather than expecting them? There are more than enough plain, blond, blue-eyed, malnourished Eastern Europeans on the runway.
It's totally bizarre considering the market, New York City-the economic and cultural capital of the US, is incredibly diverse. It's a market that demands diversity but fashion just isn't giving it. Calvin Klein is what people think as the quintessential American designer. And there are wealthy, stylish women in the big cities in American of all different backgrounds. Not just white!

It is also surprising that Alexander Wang and Vera Wang aren't as "clued in" as other designers like Jason Wu. Sometimes I find those kinds of designers do the opposite in kind of a "self-hating" way...

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26-02-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaars View Post
The fact that Calvin Klein hasn't booked a single black model in three seasons is scary. One of the biggest shows in New York should never have that kind of white washed cast, it really just gives it a bad name. In my opinion, I don't find their shows exciting at all. Then it's that fact that bothers me as well, why should I have to be surprised to see a black model rather than expecting them? There are more than enough plain, blond, blue-eyed, malnourished Eastern Europeans on the runway.
And none for any Asian models yet I mean talking about the RTW one! With the exception of the Resort/Pre-Fall shows (Only both Liu Wen & Lina Zhang were casted so far). Idk when CK is going to embrace more diversities on their runway *shrugs*

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26-02-2013
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i actually feel that this season is one of the better seasons that more designers and casting directors are adding some diversity in their shows. the problem is that the same shows that are notorious for not being more diverse in their castings (calvin klein being one of them) are still repeating the same problem. we'll see how paris holds up...

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08-03-2013
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Season breakdown. Quite horrifying.



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08-03-2013
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It's like the industry was going back in time instead of moving forward and growing up.

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09-03-2013
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I feel like Tom Ford and maybe Givenchy are the only designer shows without any colour lines or tokenism going on...

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