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09-03-2013
  106
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LabelWhore4's Avatar
 
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^My thoughts exactly. They do it in a way that is natural and not gimmicky. In that way they are some of the only truly modern designers, because their outlook on race matches the world we currently live in.

Raf and Francisco represent everything thats wrong with fashion. They don't see non-white girls as aspirational and that attitude works its way down to mass market. They do not live in a bubble, so they damn sure shouldn't design in one.

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12-03-2013
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I just thought I would make a list of Jil Sander shows, and the number of caucasian girls vs non caucasian girls. I chose Jil because Maida and Rami cast the show and they seem to be the greatest offenders in terms of never casting girls of color.

Jil Sander S/S 2008: 48 looks, all caucasian.

Jil Sander F/W 2008: 47 looks, all caucasian.

Jil Sander S/S 2009: 45 looks, all caucasian.

Jil Sander F/W 2009: 57 looks, all caucasian.

Jil Sander S/S 2010: 55 looks, all caucasian.

Jil Sander F/W 2010: 37 looks, two Afro-Latina models, Joan Smalls and Rose Cordero, two Asian models, Fei Fei Sun and Ming Xi.

Jil Sander S/S 2011: 44 looks, one model of color, Shena Moulton.

Jil Sander F/W 2011: 48 looks, all caucasian.

Jil Sander S/S 2012: 49 looks, two girls of color, Roberta Narciso and Shena Moulton.

Jil Sander F/W 2012: 37 looks, all caucasian.

Jil Sander S/S 2013: 35 looks, all caucasian.

Jil Sander F/W 2013: 39 looks, two Asian models, Chiharu Okunugi and Fei Fei Sun.

I find it so embarrassing that the show with the most diversity (Fall 2010) had 4 out of 37 models, otherwise known as 10%, that were non-White. I really hope Maida and Rami can allow more diversity into their castings, because honestly they are not doing a very good job of it. I am also not sure if they were the ones who cast prior to S/S 2010, models.com info doesn't go that far back, because pre-2010 is just terrifyingly white-washed.

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12-03-2013
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theBlueRider's Avatar
 
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^^ Someone needs to put Maida and Rami out of business

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13-03-2013
  109
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Wow, thanks for compiling that teaars, it's staggering. I also place a lot of blame on the designers themselves.

Yendor and LabelWhore4 also bring up a good point about Tom Ford and Givenchy using diversity in a way that is not transparent and gimmicky. Just because you use a few token girls in a show, like many casting directors do, doesn't make you less insulting or antiquated.

Let's get real, it's not like casting girls for a show is brain surgery or that much of an art form [though I'm sure people in the fashion industry will claim the latter ]. Why people like Maida and Rami are so touted is f-ing beyond me.

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13-03-2013
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I think Ralph Lauren also deserves some credit for his visionary casting. He does his own casting and it is always inclusive as he selects faces based on sheer beauty, elegance and occasional cinematic reference. He's one of the few brands who regularly feature non whites in his advertising too. The ads featuring Ubah Hassan are some of the most beautiful and memorable to me, i think its such nonsense when people say blacks and asians do not sell covers or are not aspirational... thats because you do not allow them the same status as Gisele or Kate -__-

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13-03-2013
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Ralph is definitely someone to look up to in the business, he always has a wide variety of races in his shows and campaigns. I also think Alber Elbaz does quite a good job of having a good amount of diversity in his shows. Though this past Fall 2013 season he didn't use nearly as many black girls as he usually does.

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13-03-2013
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I have also decided to make a list of Chloť shows and their diversity when it comes to casting. I've noticed there are rarely more than two or three non-White girls that walk the show and it was always Liu Wen who was typically the only non-white model to walk the show. Chloť is definitely a much more diverse casting than say Jil or Calvin Klein, but not necessarily a brand to give major praise to.

Chloť Spring/Summer 2004: 42 looks, two Asian models, Ai Tominaga and Ujjwala Raut, one Black model, Liya Kebede

Chloť Fall/Winter 2004: 39 looks, all Caucasian cast.

Chloť Spring/Summer 2005: 38 looks, one Black model, Liya Kebede.

Chloť Fall/Winter 2005: 34 looks, one Asian model, Hye Park.

Chloť Spring/Summer 2006: 37 looks, all Caucasian cast.

Chloť Fall/Winter 2006: 38 looks, all Caucasian cast

Chloť Spring/Summer 2007: 38 looks, one Asian model, Han Jin.

Chloť Fall/Winter 2007: 39 looks, one Asian model, Han Jin

Chloť Spring/Summer 2008: 34 looks, two Asian models, Han Jin and Hye Park.

Chloť Fall/Winter 2008: 31 looks, two Asian models, Han Jin and Hye Park.

Chloť Spring/Sumer 2009: 34 looks, one Asian model, Liu Wen

Chloť Fall/Winter 2009: 36 looks, one Asian model, Liu Wen.

Chloť Spring/Summer 2010: 29 looks, one Asian model, Liu Wen.

Chloť Fall/Winter 2010: 33 looks, one Asian model, Liu Wen, one black model, Ajak Deng.

Chloť Spring/Summer 2011: 30 looks, one Asian model, Shu Pei Qin.

Chloť Fall/Winter 2011: 32 looks, one Asian model, Liu Wen, one Black model, Anais Mali

Chloť Spring/Sumer 2012: 36 looks, two Asian models, Fei Fei Sun and Liu Wen, one black model, Joan Smalls.

Chloť Fall/Winter 2012: 33 looks, one Asian model, So Young Kang.

Chloť Spring/Summer 2013: 37 looks, two Asian models, Ji Hye Park and Tian Yi.

Chloť Fall/Winter 2013: 41 looks, two Asian models, Ji Hye Park and Tian Yi.


Super pleased to not see one entirely Caucasian cast of models within the last five years.

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13-03-2013
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Now for the moment of truth, Calvin Klein, just to prove Maida and Rami's inability to properly cast an ethnically diverse show. They seem to have a particular aversion towards Asian models...

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2005: 38 looks, All Caucasian cast.

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2005: 40 looks, All Caucasian cast.

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2006: 38 looks, All Caucasian cast.

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2006: 36 looks, All Caucasian cast.

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2007: 34 looks, All Caucasian cast.

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2007: 42 looks, All Caucasian cast.

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2008: 37 looks, All Caucasian cast.

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2008: 37 looks, one Black model, Liya Kebede.

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2009: 38 looks, one Black model, Jourdan Dunn.

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2009: 35 looks, one Black model, Lyndsey Scott.

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2010: 35 looks, one Black model, Shena Moulton

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2010: 34 looks, one Black model, Shena Moulton

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2011: 34 looks, one Black model, Shena Moulton.

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2011: 34 looks, one Black model, Jourdan Dunn.

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2012: 32 looks, one Black model, Jasmine Tookes.

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2012: 33 looks, one Black model, Cora Emmanuel.

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2013: 33 looks, All Caucasian cast.

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2013: 33 looks, All Caucasian cast.

It was going from bad to okay, and now it's just awful again. In 2013 of all years, it's really shameful.

Someone tell me if these get boring/annoying and I will be more than happy to stop!

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13-03-2013
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Wow, this is actually staggering in how depressing it is. Don't stop unless you'd like to, teaars, I find it really fascinating.

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13-03-2013
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The Calvin Klein casting is just awful. Seeing a token black model on some seasons and not even doing it every season is really cringe-worthy. They should stop hiring Maida and Rami, tbh.

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14-03-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Style Savvy View Post
The Calvin Klein casting is just awful. Seeing a token black model on some seasons and not even doing it every season is really cringe-worthy. They should stop hiring Maida and Rami, tbh.
The sad thing is that I think they are going to be casting CK, Jil AND Dior from now on.....so don't count on diverse casting at Dior either.

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14-03-2013
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Pretty sad, but it is up to designers too. What do you think they should do lets say each show has 40 looks average do you think they should pick 10 whites 10 blacks 10 asians 10 other ? I mean really. I understand diversity, but I think a model should get booked on her own merits not because of her color whatever color she may be not because people think it should be fair. Life isn't fair unfortunately.
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14-03-2013
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^I agree that casting should be based on merit, but I think it's safe to say that there are plenty of non-white models that are qualified to be cast in A-list shows and notably aren't.

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14-03-2013
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Tokenism is sometimes worse than having all whites IMO. Sometimes blacks, asians, non blonde caucasians and latins etc are just categorically lumped together to as "ethnics" and they just allow the one or two

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14-03-2013
  120
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Another thing that infuriates me, is that there are certain girls that will play the token one season, she'll be at all the right shows, and then the next season they are completely dumped and end up walking only a few low tier shows. It's a high turnover industry but diverse models are, without argument, way more disposable than white models are. Which rationally doesn't make sense, as there are much less of them in the industry.

And teaars, thank you, we can all voice our opinions and ignorant people will find counter-arguments, but numbers (cold hard facts) don't lie.

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