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Originally Posted by lepetitcouturier
What a sad collection. She has no youth in her. Everything that Jil ever was is in Celine now. But the difference is that Celine does it better. Her style and her taste hasn't been relevant since the 90s. Minimalism has changed now and I don't think she can go along with it. And saying that this is better than what Raf Simons did for the brand truly is an insult. He pushed this brand further along than she frankly ever could.
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I love what Phoebe Philo is doing at Celine, but her tailoring is definitely not at this level. The only other designer who is as good as this when it comes to shape and silhouette is Yohji Yamamoto.
I don't know how Raf Simons pushed this label exactly, unless relying on old silhouettes and retrograde ideas of femininity count as progress. It always seemed like he was more interested in dressing housewives, socialites, celebrities, fashion icons, women don't who have to take the subway, cross the street, run errands, who don't move in their clothes that much and only need to look "pretty" as objects of fashion.
Yeah, he made the label "trendy" and red-carpet viable. That doesn't necessarily strike me as a good thing. I'm glad he's moved to Dior. It seems his aesthetic suits that house better.
Besides, Jil Sander isn't just about minimalism. I'd say the chief aesthetic of the house has always been functionalism, practicality, a wardrobe of the working woman.
I, for one, am glad to see buttons.