@ # 76 thanks NPJ for posting Jo-Ann Furniss's excellent review. It seems Style.com have found themselves another decent writer besides Tim Blanks.
Re the footwear it was interesting to see mention of Muret Oppenheim. I went there last season regards Viktor&Rolf but the comparison is more on point in relation to shoes given their symbolism stretching back I suspect to Chaucerian bawdy. 'Cups' these days are of course generally presented sans 'fur' but the symbolism remains - applying fur connotes animalistic sexuality. So these are spa shoes sexualised. And I've already noted @ Prada and Rick Owens this season sexual references to Spa's. It's a confluence of the water/liquidshine materials trend and the movement toward eastern mysticism/spiritualism. These are Tantric Spa shoes.
I agree with Jo-Ann that the Celine woman having found a new ease is welcome. The have-it-all strictness of the Celine formulation now passed is an illusion. A stressful illusion. Relax already.
But not just deshabille, japonisme/eastern deshabille. Philo identified a knottedness at three of the Major Chakra - the throat chakra, the heart chakra and the root chakra. The vascillating dialogue between knottedness and being open at the heart - those deep decolettes of mesh - concluded @ #31 in knottedness. Still work to be done in moving from uptight fierceness to sweetness.
And how looks #3 and #5 sleeveless coatdresses resembled those of Prada's last season. Which observation stands not as critique but as flagging up a dialogue, a sharing of sensibility and message. For, eschewing retro, it's 60's or 90's incarnation, it's not a far step to stride (in fur infused spa shoe) from minimalism, via asceticism, to spiritualism.
Save that this is a movement (more than a trend, a movement) in which spiritual enlightenment and bodily pleasure arrive as one. Seek not power but bliss.
That which is waning is the particularly western form of sexual practise/style bound up with competitiveness and characterised by BDSM. That which is rising is tantric sex and spiritual awakening. A move from hate and hit to caress and cares. No longer knottedness nor ties that bind, no longer fierceness, but an openess to a new sweetness of heart.