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I missed the color, the fun prints, the happy, spring-y atmosphere that most SS seasons are full of. We have to get ready for a pretty sober spring and summer. Having said that, I loved the suits galore, the perfect whie shirts and the tendency to look back at fashion houses' heritage.
Positive surprises:
Zac Posen - it was his first collection ever that I actually loved. And the casting was impeccable!
Chanel - just as I was starting to get slightly bored with Karl, he came with windmills, energy and fresh air. May I please have all these enormous pearls?
Jil Sander - it looked totally like a Raf Simons' collection. And as far as I'm concerned, that's a good thing.
Maison Martin Margiela - simplicity at it's best
Proenza Schouler - interesting patchwork
Balenciaga - sexy and refined at the same time
Disappointments
Dior - Raf can't find his place at Dior. He mixed some of his lovely, perfectly tailored, chic looks (which, however, felt a bit deja vu) and a bunch of random, unflattering pieces. The collection didn't quite hold together.
Dolce & Gabbana - while I perfectly understand its haters, the brand is my guilty pleasure. This time, however, it was pure pain.
Versace - oh. my. how. tacky. And how unwearable if you're over 20 and over size 6.
Balmain - I still have high hopes for Olivier, his F/W 12 collection is pretty good, but pajama pants, jumpsuits and 80s references? Really?
Lanvin - don't get me wrong, I LOOOOVE Alber Elbaz. And if that collection was designer by anyone else, I'd say it's really good. But Alber can do so much better, more inspiring, more flattering.
No surprise
Haider Ackermann and Sarah Burton never get it wrong.
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