Maison Martin Margiela x H&M
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Join Date: May 2005
An honest answer from me about Margiela and this H&M collaboration would be...NO.
I honestly don't believe that Martin, himself......would have dragged his maison...into this route. It truly does seem contradictory to his esthetic about fashion....and quite the oxymoron as to how he presumably would want to see his company grow....or prosper.
I once worked for a high-end designer boutique in Boston. Our shop was one of the first...and almost the only....boutique where the Margiela collection could be found.
My boss at the shop was originally from Italy...but he moved to the states in his youth...and also b/c his wife owned the boutique prior to meeting him.
My boss know Renzo Rosso, personally. Many times during the mid to late 90's...Renzo and his 2 sons would stop into our shop to chat with my boss when they were in the USA.
Nobody...not even my boss...could predict or fathom that Renzo would ever consider any interest towards Margiela.
Diesel was a JEAN company at the time (his jean company was also suffering at that time)...and Margiela was a designer who was more-or-less... part of the upper echelons of "fashion."
Personally, I also met Patrick Scallon many times....and he was traveling with a lesser known designer from Belgium named Marina Yhee.
I can "relate" with MM is several ways.
Like Martin....i was...and still am....a fledgling "designer." I studied fashion at FIT in NYC.
As a popular saying goes..."Martin Margiela is usually a fashion designer's, designer."
Being a fashion student at one time...I was taught how to understand construction....the workmanship put into an individual piece...and an entire collection.
I also learned to understand what it takes in order to survive in this world, too....if I wanted to be a "fashion designer.".....and not merely..."just a seamstress."
Survival is MONEY..weather I like it....or not.
I might "WANT" to stay true to my esthetic and my integrity (like Margiela)...but when push-comes-to-shove...when bills need to be paid.....when your audience is growing larger and larger, but you don't have the finances to support a bigger fan base...what can you do??
In some respects..I do understand that there must have been plenty of betrayal on Renzo Rosso's behalf....towards Margiela. knowing the nature of the man as well as I once did...I think Margiela relinquished part of his company...into the hands of a company he "assumed" would nurture and respect the brand and it's integrity. Only by looking back now.....Margiela sees what has happened. Margiela "thought" he was making a wise investment...but clearly and unfortunately...he was considerably....WRONG.
Margiela wanted (and needed)....to make money for his company.
As did, Renzo Rosso for Diesel.
In regards to Rosso...I think his motivation is based more upon greed.
In regards to Margiela...his motivation was probably based more upon making money...JUST to survive.
Many designers steer their company towards a corporate strategy....by marketing themselves....by putting their clothes on vapid celebrities....by advertising....by releasing publicity and conducting interviews....by releasing a frangrance, etc etc.
And as such....this H&M/MMM collaboration is another testament to my prior statement.
Good from them.
As far as Margiela.....his esthetic....his company....his integrity??
I had to come-to-grips with the situation a loooooooong time ago.
I knew back in 2004........ what the eventual outlook would be in Margiela's future.
I never liked it...but to be honest....I am also entirely powerless to it.
Other designers who preceded Margiela....and other designers who have followed the same procedure with their brand....have suffered the consequences.
Raf Simons...Jil Sander....Helmut Lang....Hedi Slimane....Alexander McQueen....all these designers have been swallowed up and financially supported by corporate "fashion" companies...such as Prada...Gucci...and Vuitton.
People who are not so consumed with fashion are unaware of what eventually happens when these "fashion" companies decide to take the helm..and it's sad.
These companies do support these designers...but they also COMMAND that they produce massive profits. If the designer doesn't live up to the corporate companies expectations...they are "asked" (more like, forced)...to step away from their own company....so another potential "fashion wunderkind" can take their place. As stated...it's all about money....creativity becomes secondary. Margiela suffered the consequences with Diesel....but.....now that Diesel owns Margiela.....and Margiela has stepped away.....
I can almost imagine the HUGE..... S*IT-eating grin on Martin's face....and my own face, too....watching Renzo stoop to levels so low....begging for financial support and publicity through H&M.
As the saying goes, SCOTT...what goes around...comes around...and Renzo is obviously suffering.......as once Martin was, too.
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