[Wolkfolk]

Another season and another best NYFW show for Proenza Schouler (so far). This collection is so refreshing and pleasing for the eyes. They worked with a very limited color palette and quite a depressing no matter what Anna Wintour will say but managed to give a whole new meaning to graphic through it. More precisely through their use of shades and prints. It’s almost like a literal interpretation of 50 shades of Grey and I love it. I feel like re-discovering the beauty of this color with this presentation.

I love the accentuated femininity approached in a very depressed and almost insecure way. There was this strong tension when the girls were walking, a very captivating and engaging tension although upsetting. When the first looks came out, I had this image of asylum patients or nurses, the girls really looked unstable. They’re fragile and seemed to urge for protection with the amazingly tailored outerwear yet doesn’t quite managed to so. However my first impression lead to the one of the leading lady of a hit TV-show from the 60s whose color and shine faded away through the years.. The retro inspiration is obvious in the cuts and silhouettes: a lot of 60s with some touch of 80s and a little bit of 70s especially with the last two dresses that were very Proenza.

However what really strikes me is the snowy TV pattern inspiration which I think is incredible, the use of prints is simply incredible!! It creates such an interesting and unique graphic aspect. They, for me, present here a whole new take on volume that instead of concrete “3-D” volumes by layers and fabric they rely on the power of the eye with “trompe l’oeil” and prints to create a volume. This single aspect of the collection makes it so unique and makes up for some reminiscent pieces of other designers which for me don’t even matter. Because this collection is a fashion statement!

It's wearable, chic, feminine, strong, and commercial but also editorial fitting without fuss. It’s very true to whom they are and actually some looks felt very early Proenza to me. They don’t throw trends after trends to our face. The accessories are cute and precious, the simplicity is alluring, the eveningwear is on point, the daywear as always is as Hitchcockian as it is delish. We have flattering silhouettes presented in in their ladylike aesthetic but young and hip, the tiny little use of color was just right, some layering and lace all together perfectly handled… I could go on and on. My only regret is the fur skirts ; I don’t feel like it was necessary. This being said it’s 3 AM here and I couldn’t be happier to have stayed awake to watch this live. Thanks and bravo to Jack and Lazaro.