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He was the first to really show such easy shapes and and let his designs be informed by comfort while still being stylish. He took off where Vionnet and Fortuny left off in that regard. His clothes also were technical wonders often using no more than one seam.
Unfortunately excessive licensing of his name washed out his allure and his legacy was reduced to being a reckless party boy who died of AIDS. It's pretty sad, it wasn't until I had to research one of his dresses recently at a costume museum that I really paid him any attention.
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