[DosViolines]

Worth Deep Iris Coupe des Velours Silk Chiffon Gown
French, circa 1896
Serpentine floral and foliate motif, the fitted bodice with applique banded purple dyed Chantilly lace trimming the neckline and overlaying sleeve cap concluding in steel bead tassels front and back, embroidered with sequin, seed and faceted beads, ecru Alencon lace bib, band collar, glove length balloon sleeve with elbow shaped cuff, pleated chiffon cummerbund waist with passementarie embroidered frog medallion at center back with silk braid ball and seed bead tassles, the trained bell-shaped bustle skirt with hip stitched pleats, double banded Chantilly lace inserted with applique at hem, rouched chiffon trimming on hem of lilac crepe back satin underskirt, size 8, labeled: C.Worth and numbered 85854.
Estimate: $10,000-12,000

This gown was given to the elderly consignor by her great aunt, a textile teacher on the West Coast, who in turn was given it by the mother of one of her pupils for use in a lesson. The information that accompanied the gown was that it belonged to Louisa Morgan Satterlee, the eldest daughter of of J. Pierpoint Morgan. What is known apart from the fact that she regularly travelled to Paris to be fitted by Worth, is that Louisa was born on March 10, 1866 and therefore she would have been in her early 30's when wearing the gown. In addition she is described as tall and rather large boned. Both facts are consistent with the style and size of this beautiful design.

doylenewyork.com