[kimair]

ny continued...

Kelly Golden, co-owner of Neapolitan, in suburban Winnetka:

My favorite collections: Oscar de la Renta and Michael Kors; they both represented the luxurious sophistication of the season.

Trends I am happy to see: Color, lots of color! amethyst, topaz, malachite and jade emerged on the runways and will be huge commercial hits. The mixing of textures — leathers, furs, wools and embroideries — upped the luxe factor this season. Overall, designers seemed conscious of the global warming effect by designing more seasonless pieces that can be worn year-round. Silhouettes remain more body-conscious and closer to the body than in past seasons. Accessories such as clutches made of exotic skins and color incorporated in handbags to play off strong colors in the [ready-to-wear] collections.

Stephanie Solomon, vice president and fashion director of women's rtw and accessories at Bloomingdale's:

My favorite collections: Ralph Lauren was at his best. Only he can transform lumberjack plaid and into something so chic and elegant. I also thought that Michael Kors showed a remarkable collection. I liked the way he took the inspiration from late Fifties and early Sixties, a time when women always looked beautiful. Somehow he catapulted it into fall 2008 and made it relevant. Marc Jacobs never ceases to surprise us with his on-time show filled with refreshing soft pale colors and a new silhouette based on the blousson. It was uneven but I really loved the idea of the volume in the back and the pulling in the derrière area. It looked like that's the new erogenous zone. Proenza Schouler took their skill to another level — the world class designer level. Gone were the bra tops and girly references and in their place was real craftsmanship based on origami and folding. I loved Diane Von Furstenberg's journey with her Forties spy girl with the layering and strong-shouldered jackets. Jenny Kane is a serious designer with lovely, ladylike lovely fabric. I'm excited to bring Jenni Kayne into Bloomingdale's.

Trends I'm happy to see: Customers will respond to the closer-to-the-body silhouette. I love that color is continuing. It didn't seem like it will be a dark gray season. Shoes are still important and men's wear pants are cropped to show off shoes. The vest was seen not only in men's wear fabrics, but fur, shearling and sweater knits.

Stefani Greenfield, co-owner of Scoop NYC:

My favorite collections: Michael Kors was exquisite — the colors, textures and styling all came together in such a sophisticated and ladylike way. There was really a newness in silhouette and proportion — the below-the-knee pencil, the jackets, the fitted knitwear. Diane von Furstenberg's collection shared a lot of the same elements — the layered jackets and knits with distinct definition at the waist — but with a different feeling. Marc Jacobs was just beautiful. I loved the proportions and softness of it all and I loved the neutral palate. It was really sophisticated.

Trends I'm happy to see: A very strong return to sportswear after seasons of dresses being the key item. The new sportswear look — layered knits, fitted jackets, the below-the-knee pencil skirts and dresses. The absence of volume in favor of sharp tailoring and sheath dresses, and the focus on the waist. Fur — real and faux, a big focus on accessories, such as hats, headbands, gloves, scarves and the continuance of the covered leg.

Sarah Easley, Kirna Zabête:

My favorite collections: We've just started selling Alexander Wang. This year he took his collection to another level. It was effortless chic, which we all know is a huge effort. He touched on a theme of borrowing from the boys with oversize blazers and skinny pants and tanks, and the trend of beading and sequins on a very modest, masculine silhouette. I loved Thakoon, especially the green grid dress, his mixed prints and tweeds and silks. Also, Peter Som's rich, layered look. Narciso Rodriguez's show was the best he's done. It was completely not derivative of anything else. He's on his own plane and designing in his own vacuum. It was sexy, futuristic, subtle and sleek. And the back details...wow, that was polished. Elise Overland's collection had a backstage pass element, no surprise for a woman whose former career was a wardrober for a rock band. Erin Fetherston's collection was much more grounded. She had dramatic silhouettes but less ethereal twinkleness. I was glad to see her grand sweeping proportions done in a more realistic way.

Trends I was happy to see: Color, print and sequins. I love a masculine silhouette in a feminine fabric. I love the sleek skinny pant with the oversize blazer. Belts over knits and granny shoes.

Trend I'm happy to see disappear: I'm definitely not mourning the loss of volume and baby doll looks. I'm glad its over. The layering trend that was very common the last two falls has subsided to more wovens. I like a cleaner, belted layering with a jacket.