[kimair]

paris, continued...

Michael Fink, vice president, women’s fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue: “Paris was a city of mixed messages on how to dress for the new recession. What doesn’t work: an excessive Eighties ‘Paris Is Burning’ or ‘Let Them-Eat-Cake’ attitude. Self-assured, confident women who wear their labels on the inside will collect the new kimono proportion jackets, skirt-pants, and caged shoes at YSL, or the supersophisticated sportswear separates at Dries Van Noten. If color, print and joy are your thing, then you could do no better than Junya Watanabe and Lanvin. Investment dressing? Go straight to Chanel and Martin Grant to pick up the jackets and dresses that will always be in style. Collect as many statement necklaces and bangles as you can — they’ll dress up anything already in the closet and even can be hung on the wall as art.”

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus: “Olivier Theyskens opened Paris with a dream of a collection at Nina Ricci, and did a terrific job of reinterpreting the runway at a commercial level. We’re seeing a lot of lingerie and boudoir details in Paris. Plays on sheer fabric, where subtle and tasteful, looked very good to us, and all the shiny and metallic fabrics will entice the customer. We loved Balenciaga’s finale of metallic dresses. Dries Van Noten was one of the standout collections of Paris: His geometrics looked very new and on-target, a good contrast to all the faded florals. Stella McCartney had a terrific collection, with a light spirit and sequins for day. Lanvin had all that beautiful color, and Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld is taking the world of ready-to-wear closer to couture with a level of craftsmanship that’s amazing. I’m loving all this Africana we’re seeing in Paris.”

Stephanie Solomon, vice president and fashion director, Bloomingdale’s: “Paris rocked! Stella McCartney’s cool collection of boyfriend jackets, jumpsuits and beaded dresses showed how the girl with the rock ’n’ roll soul should dress for spring. We loved Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. He stayed true to the vision of the house, which is the epitome of chic. Dior’s upbeat youthful collection of colorful chiffon mini goddess dresses and flippy skirts also was great. Finally, Isabel Marant, a contemporary Parisian force, has hit her stride with her je ne sais quoi approach that will show American women how to dress with French attitude. We loved that Paris gave us a romantic escape.”

Sarah Easley, Beth Buccini, owners, Kirna Zabête: “Considering the financial crisis, more than ever we are looking for love-at-first-sight, showstopping items. It has to be the very best. We found beautiful pieces at Lanvin. It was a truly joyous collection and if anyone has a party — it’ll be where to go. Olivier Theyskens at Nina Ricci did beautiful prints that you can wear head to toe without looking like a victim. A rocker-girl theme was happening in Paris. We are picking up Givenchy to explore that. If you’re going to buy black, it’s going to be in that rocker-chick theme. Another consideration this season was finding supertimeless quality items, like at Azzedine Alaïa. Business for us has been really good, even yesterday. People want to feel good and they want to buy clothes. We are neither cutting nor increasing our budgets. We are working to make each order count.”

Averyl Oates, buying director, Harvey Nichols, London: “Paris was a magpie’s heaven. Balenciaga’s cropped bandage peg-leg trouser is set to be one of the must-have items of the season. Dries Van Noten took the idea of optical illusion and overlaying graphic shapes. Stella McCartney provided the essential pieces that every girl-about-town should have in her wardrobe: relaxed Eighties-inspired jackets, short jumpsuits in washed silk and a variety of tailored or less structured versions of the cropped peg-leg trouser. Eighties body-conscious Lycra dresses à la Robert Palmer were also notable. Paris was about pared-down shapes with jackets and trousers making a comeback. Paris was very much about simple and easy shapes in a monochrome palette with strong trends for nudes, heavy embellished-sequined standout pieces and chunky statement jewelry.”

Nicole Fischelis, vice president and women’s fashion director, Macy’s: “This season is very much about individualism. There’s a return to sportswear and a wind of freedom everywhere. The importance of craft detailing and draping, of embellishment, crystal studding everywhere and sheer continue to be very important, as well as lace. Paris is offering a whole new color palette of pales and new neutrals. Prints continue, but we go from florals to exotic to graphic, as masterfully handled by Dries Van Noten. Highlights included Lanvin’s young elegance, Martin Margiela’s brilliant 20th anniversary show, Rick Owens, the fusion of sportswear and exotica at Ungaro, the trash glam at Balmain, the emotion of Nina Ricci, the charm of Antonio Marras at Kenzo, the modern sportswear approach and color of Chloé and Stella McCartney, the sophistication of Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, red-carpet dresses from Giambattista Valli and the sportswear aesthetic and energy at Jean Paul Gaultier. Off the runway, Angelo Tarlazzi showed a young, feminine and versatile collection.”

Armand Hadida, owner, L’Eclaireur, Paris: “In Paris, designers intellectualize: There’s originality and creativity. Balenciaga was a standout collection with its modern, architectural silhouettes. Junya Watanabe was a surprise. He took African fabrics and reinterpreted them by putting them with jeans, with different materials and colors. Comme des Garçons was as provocative as usual and the collection is even richer when you see it in the showroom. Gareth Pugh is bringing a lot to the fashion world. Designers have to have the courage to break the mold and do something new. This financial crisis is going to deal everybody a new hand. People who manage to complete the fashion marathon will be the people who deserve it, not the plagiarists or those who repeat the same things.”

Betsy Lepore, owner, Jimmy’s, Brooklyn and the Hamptons, N.Y.: “Regardless of an uncertain economy, Paris does what Paris did best: defy the rules and present overwhelmingly short and exquisite party dresses. Such dresses were shown in the retro-inspired collection of Giambattista Valli, whose dresses were perfect for the Plaza Hotel. The party feeling continued for Esteban Cortazar of Emanuel Ungaro, whose floral mélange short cocktail dresses in pleated chiffon were outstanding. Completing the trio of designers perfecting what the girls will be wearing in the up-and-coming party season were the couture designs of Elie Saab. His collection was done in shades resembling a Monet.”

Ebru Sipahi, buying manager for women’s designer, Harvey Nichols, Istanbul: “We were pleased with Paris. We have seen many beautiful collections, but Eighties, exaggerated looks were a bit difficult. Overall, we will be spending about 5 to 10 percent less; however, if we are confident in a brand, we may still increase our open-to-buy. Rock-chick fabulousness is one of the most appealing trends for me, skinny pants with boyfriend jackets or a very masculine look with all crystallized items, along with jumpsuits and lingerie-inspired designs. In terms of accessories, Panama hats are a hit, ankle-cuff sandals, extreme platform shoes and Chanel’s feather-trimmed shoes, oversize and jeweled clutches, big bangles and giant necklaces. Our favorite collections were Balmain, Stella McCartney and Chanel.”