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Designing well for a storied house means respecting the past and forging into the future – a balancing act at which Nicolas Ghesquière excels. Referencing the architectural shapes of founding couturier Cristobal Balenciaga, he spun them forward into a collection that is sartorial, modern – and diverse. “The tailoring is graphic and construction compact,”Ghesquière said. Sharply cut jackets – some in thick linens – looked rich,as did an ottoman silk coat in pale green. Riffing on a subtle Japanese theme, there were high, kimono collars and gleaming metallic samurai sandals. There were also terrific screen-printed T-shirts and sturdy denim jeans and jackets. Although still in its infancy - men’s wear launched in 2004 - Balenciaga men’s wear is building towards a complete and more accessible wardrobe.

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