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^ I don't think it's that people want another Lanvin or Owens. I think it's just that Elbaz and Owens are two designers who come to mind when one thinks of designers who have an innate understanding of what it was that Vionnet herself was all about. The two of them take what she stood for and apply it to their own work in a contemporary, individualistic way.
I don't really see what's challenging about this. It's predictable fare, but the technique isn't handled particularly well. When it comes to draping, less is more.
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