A fine Christian Dior haute couture brown tulle evening gown "Esther" Profile Line, Autumn-Winter 1952, labelled and numbered 20764, and with client tag `Mrs Wanamaker' and also with separate label `Tribout Shop John Wanamaker', the strapless boned bodice and full skirt applied with velvet roundels edged in sparkling gold bugle beads and tiny sequins, the roundels segment and enlarge as they descend the skirt interspesed with godets of vermicalar bugle beads, two tulle petticoats give fullness to the skirt which is mid-calf length for dancing, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in Dior's Profile line in the Autumn of 1952 was as the name suggested a collection of quite sharp and distinct silhouettes that hugged the body and emphasised the hips. It was sober but sexy as Dior edited out what he called "fashion fripperies" and black and brown were repeated throughout the collection. Many of the day and evening gowns used bare skin for maximum impact with strapless bodices or daring decolletage. The velvet adornments and beading on this "Esther" gown are cleverly graduated to emphasise the curve of the breasts to the narrow waist above the full skirt which served to empasise the hips. Vogue reported that Dior's preferred hem-length was about 11 1/2in from the ground - and they helpfully suggested that the height of the magazine could be used as a measure. The fact that the gown shows both a retail and a couture label suggests that the couture dress was probably sold by Dior under licence to the US so that it could be copied. The original couture gowns were often re-exported across the Canadian border so that the duties paid upon import to the US could be reclaimed and then sold onto a department store or deluxe dress establishment. The Mrs Wanamaker written on the muslin tag was presumably the wife of the retailer.
