Helmut Lang F/W 1996.97 Paris

[Phuel]

from firstview.com

 

[Phuel]

firstview

 

[Not Plain Jane]

I remember this! What a great collection, and the models suit it so well, for some reason. A lot of this collection I'd wear today (well, tomorrow, technically, since I am in my p.j.'s ). The yellow looks great, the ultra soft knits, and those coats with red or black stripes part way down. Beautiful.

 

[Squizree]

Amazing how relevant this stuff is today. You literally see it everywhere.

How was this collection influential exactly?

 

[Scott]

definitely a great idea this as a proper topic. i think this was the first that really catapulted HL on a different plain,particularly his popularity increasing in america.....it got a lot of nice press. and it certainly changed my life for sure.

 

[softgrey]

Amazing how relevant this stuff is today. You literally see it everywhere.

How was this collection influential exactly?

i think you answered your own question!...

 

[Squizree]

^ LOL I suppose I did.

 

[softgrey]

i always wanted one of those coats with the stripes...

it's sort of interesting how they remind me of Y-3 now...
although y-3 is always 3 stripes...and this was before Y-3 existed...

but the stripes are just very cool...

 

[LolaSvelt]

I suppose the cut-outs were very influential, no? I'm not good with my fashion history.

The grey coat with the red stripes just stands out for me. It feels like a coat I could wear forever (obviously only when needed). The brand Helmut Lang is just not interesting any more.

 

[Phuel]

i always wanted one of those coats with the stripes...

it's sort of interesting how they remind me of Y-3 now...
although y-3 is always 3 stripes...and this was before Y-3 existed...

but the stripes are just very cool...

If I remember correctly, the stripes were hand-painted. There was an instant "vintage" and worn vibe to this collection without ever being kitschy or theatrical. I just fell for it instantly when I saw it in the stores: the jackets in shiny, thick army-green nylon, the immaculately-cut nylon button-downs with the small mod-collar, the fine-jersey wool t-shirts with the floral-print, and the suits in fine nylon. Such an amazing collection that still holds up so strongly after all these years.

Thanks softgrey for giving this its own thread! The pretenders can see how it's really done by the master.

 

[Scott]

^actually i think they were spray-painted with stencils.

lola,his slashes were definitely influential. in fact it was he and Ann Demeulemeester who sort of revolutionised that....it spawned a lot of imitations across the fashion plain but it all came back to those two.

 

[runner]

the coat with the red stripes is khaki. but yes greyish one certainly. and a bit smoky too.

 

[lucy92]

from the original helmutlang.com

mens look pickups from this show
Runner's scan



images from firstview

 

[runner]

there are many other images from this collection in the general helmut lang thread too, if anyone is interested.

 

[runner]

from SS2004 backstage though


firstview

 

[Phuel]

^^^ That looks like A/W 95-96.

 

[runner]

^^^ That looks like A/W 95-96.

what do you mean by that ?

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Thought you meant the pic is from the S/S 2004 collection? If not-- nevermind!

 

[runner]

the pic is from the backstage of SS 2004.
maybe she, in the FW 1996 piece, was there to see him, not as a model for the SS 2004 show.

I posted the pic as an example of FW 1996 still worn years later in real life.

I was wondering if you had been thinking there was some possibility that the dress was from FW 1995.


another FW1996 example
my pics

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Yes— of course she was wearing '96 Helmut in 2004! Stupid me did not even bother to think that's what the pic was of when that's something I do myself: mix and match different Helmuts from various years along with other designers LOL

My first Helmuts came from this collection; I had 3 pieces and I was 15. Still wear the remaining 2 to this day.

There are some videos on Youtube of his full shows (not the best resolution, but still better than nothing) But this one… still no luck. Everything about this show, remains so impossibly relevant to this day. Even more so with the lack of vision and talent in 2017.