Helmut Lang S/S 2018 New York
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It's very superficial and too on-trend. I always associate Helmut Lang with individualism, but I do not see much of it here. Also, for a brand that made its mark for being innovative and pushing new ideas, this is a sad, bloated rehash of what we've seen everywhere in the past few years.
bc collector
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GEEEEEE, I thought that after having copied Helmut for so long, Shayne Oliver might come up with something decent. Truth is, the guy can't cut. He is seriously technically impeded. For all his love and admiration for Helmut and the casting of Kristen Owens and the strapping and the bondage references, this show was painful to watch.
perhydrol
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They should have just stay with the reproducing the archive pieces. This is just awful and poorly done. There were some pieces inspired by Helmut that were kind of good but they're lost in that mess. At least they won't keep Shayne as their creative director, that would just damage the brand even more.
tricotineacetat
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It's a very superficial look at the work of Helmut Lang without the understanding of nuances and undertones, particularly the bondage-y elements that he went with full force here, to the mistake there is nothing ever really holding the looks together as a functioning whole ensemble. Helmut Lang was great because his design was grounded in reality and his runway represented that credibility.
very flat. which says a lot about his design and thinking process. There is a firm lack of 'culture' and dignity to this collection.
Helmuts models looked ****ing sexy, individual and in control. These people look completely tortured and try hard.
ticking some weird deconstruction and bondage boxes is not enough. Helmut is even harder to do than Margiela.
tragic.
Helmuts models looked ****ing sexy, individual and in control. These people look completely tortured and try hard.
ticking some weird deconstruction and bondage boxes is not enough. Helmut is even harder to do than Margiela.
tragic.
Lola701
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Helmut destroyed his archives to make art out of it. Someone should send him this in case he wants to destroy clothes again. This is so bad!
First, you can't do or attempt to do Helmut Lang if you're not a master tailor.
So, he was obviously inspired by FW2000, Spring and FW 2001. What is interesting is that spring 2001 was clearly by the work of Azzedine Alaia. One thing that Alaia and Lang had was a sense of sensuality but also of reality.
As said before, this is superficial. But it is also gimmicky and it shows the limits of Mr Shayne Oliver.
You can't understand something if you only look at the surface. In the past 10 years, we have seen some of the most influencial designers, reference the work mr Lang: From Raf Simons to Riccardo Tisci...etc.
So, you needs to have in mind that you comes after all those talented designers.
It's a pity. They should really have hired Raf Simons because he is doing Helmut Lang at Calvin Klein...
First, you can't do or attempt to do Helmut Lang if you're not a master tailor.
So, he was obviously inspired by FW2000, Spring and FW 2001. What is interesting is that spring 2001 was clearly by the work of Azzedine Alaia. One thing that Alaia and Lang had was a sense of sensuality but also of reality.
As said before, this is superficial. But it is also gimmicky and it shows the limits of Mr Shayne Oliver.
You can't understand something if you only look at the surface. In the past 10 years, we have seen some of the most influencial designers, reference the work mr Lang: From Raf Simons to Riccardo Tisci...etc.
So, you needs to have in mind that you comes after all those talented designers.
It's a pity. They should really have hired Raf Simons because he is doing Helmut Lang at Calvin Klein...
jeanclaude
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This collection feels as if Shayne raped part of Helmut´s legacy; and just made a show to have some laughs at it.
As a whole, the collection is like a mockery, a bad parody of Lang´s DNA. It´s like seeing some of his most famous designs through the lense of a mirror fun house. Everything looks distorted.
Trashy, cheap and vulgar are adjectives that don´t apply to Helmut Lang; but that can be used with this collection.
Do they want to make this brand relevant again...or do they want to annihilate it once and for all??
As a whole, the collection is like a mockery, a bad parody of Lang´s DNA. It´s like seeing some of his most famous designs through the lense of a mirror fun house. Everything looks distorted.
Trashy, cheap and vulgar are adjectives that don´t apply to Helmut Lang; but that can be used with this collection.
Do they want to make this brand relevant again...or do they want to annihilate it once and for all??
Phuel
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This isn’t a shock. Considering who the person is.
Along with others’ appropriate superficial and parody as rightful descriptions— fast-food also aptly describes this offering.
In terms of presentation, this is the best and strongest I’ve ever seen from him. It’s just not anywhere near the same thoughtful, skilled and disciplined dimension as Helmut Lang.
I can already see the showroom offerings for buyers: Generic oversized blazers, crass bondage jackets, basic leather skinnies, and miles and miles of logo sweatshirts and tees.
Along with others’ appropriate superficial and parody as rightful descriptions— fast-food also aptly describes this offering.
In terms of presentation, this is the best and strongest I’ve ever seen from him. It’s just not anywhere near the same thoughtful, skilled and disciplined dimension as Helmut Lang.
I can already see the showroom offerings for buyers: Generic oversized blazers, crass bondage jackets, basic leather skinnies, and miles and miles of logo sweatshirts and tees.
MulletProof
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This is such a good time in history to not give a f*ck about fashion and I genuinely feel for those already stuck in it through some financial arrangement (aka. job/career) because.. anywhere you look at it.. wow, yikes, probably the most aspirational status is to be forgotten.
Lola701
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Yes indeed. The problem is really the designer himself...
Not to dismiss him but HBA aesthetic is kinda passé. This is not even the kind of things that we can look back in a nostalgic way. He had a very short-living hype but maybe outside of London, HBA had never been that thing really.
The hype around Shayne faded faster than what is happening with Vetements...
Creative
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Might be the first time ever we agree.
Ew. This is just a joke. Fashion is just a joke these days.
StoneSkipper
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Absolutely correct. I think, with this show, we've possibly butchered the entirety of good about high fashion there was.
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TREVOFASHIONISTO
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i dont think it was that bad. Yes, the clothes didnt fit, but I dont think that has ever been Shayne's way of thinking. If you see how he dresses, something is always off. I think that has been his aesthetic. The ending gowns were sexy and my favorite looks were the 2 orange ones.
The casting was the best of the NYFW season so far.
The casting was the best of the NYFW season so far.
